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Make Shift Single Speed


Sir_Hops_Alot

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Right well as most of you know i have a mad phase 1.2, and for some reason the chain keeps jamming up on the front cog when i peddle and is really dangerous. So, what i was thinking was, if i take off all the shifter and cables and shorten my chain so the derailuer is practically upright, this would help. Also is it possible to have the derailuer off completely as it annoying, if i can get me chain the exact right length. Heres a pic of my deraileur and gearing on back end. Your comments would be appreciated. Thanks

DSC00120.jpg

P.S I am getting the single speeded done properly when i get paid.

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My brother has a MAD 2.six, which is basically the same bike. The reason the chain comes off the front sprocket is because it is too far over to the right and the chain line is out when you use anything less than 4th gear. Because of the design of the chain stays the only way to bring the sprocket further in would be to use an 18 tooth (which is pretty pointless as you would then need to use the lower gears anyway). My solution is to put the bike in 5th, which is 16tooth but gives the best chain line, and ride it like that for a while untill you are sure you can live with that ratio, it is a little harder than some people like. If you are happy with it then shorten the chain as you described above. If you want to use 4th, it would be ebst to pop the cassette apart and swap 4th and 5th so the chain is lined up better. Then get a nice single speed kit and tensioner from Tarty Bikes!

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Woooh thanks mate that was a very detailed reply. I actually ride my bike in 5th already so i think it would be perfect and its always been in 5th, so why is it still getting jammed?

Because of the chain slack. When you land a bunny hop for example everything goes slack and the chain is free to come off. Tensioning the chain right up will stop this.

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Oh right ok, so do you not advice taking off the deraileur if i can get the chain short enough?

No. Chances are you wont get the chain to the correct length where it is tensioned. It will be either too long or too short. Using the mech will tension it right up, or get a tensioner that will replace the mech.

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The best thing to do is to take all of the cassette sprockets off, except the one you use for trials. You'll need some cassette spacers though. (Even better, buy a single sprocket, E.g. Shimano DX, which will be stronger and better). Then shorten the chain to the shortest possible. You can still run a mech - they tension really well.

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The best thing to do is to take all of the cassette sprockets off, except the one you use for trials. You'll need some cassette spacers though. (Even better, buy a single sprocket, E.g. Shimano DX, which will be stronger and better). Then shorten the chain to the shortest possible. You can still run a mech - they tension really well.

That is one of the best ways, or use a SS kit, which is basically the same. However, I got the impression he was after something free and instant so he can ride tomorrow. I know that's how it used to be with me anyway!

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I wouldn't ride like that, the cogs on the back have rampings to aid in shifting. I tried a setup like that and under extreme pressures your chain may jam up. And your chain WILL stretch, meaning it will come slack. Some of the bodges people have made in the home made tensioners part are really good and easy to make.I'd just put like 1 or 2 links in your chain and use the mech. That will give you perfect tension and should be hassle free.

Tom

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Such, such a bad idea.

Get a washer to go around the mech bolt that goes into the hanger/frame, about 4-5mm thick.

Get the mech, take the spring out of where the bolt goes through to hold it to frame, be careful, its very vicious.

Now take out the mech cable, get a spoke from an old wheel and shorten it to about 2 or 3 inches from the side the spoke is done up from, not the hub side. Push this through where the cable used to be and do up the bolt to the spoke.

Put bolt through mech, washer on end then bolt to frame. Put chain through mech as usual and do up mech as tight as possible, it is now locked out.

To adjust the gears simple adjust them into the gear you want then you can have +1-1 gears adjustment through the spoke adjustment bit at the end. (where you'd usually put the spoke key to true wheels)

I've explained it shit but it whats countless people do, check some pictures if this doesn't make sense. :)

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I wouldn't ride like that, the cogs on the back have rampings to aid in shifting. I tried a setup like that and under extreme pressures your chain may jam up. And your chain WILL stretch, meaning it will come slack. Some of the bodges people have made in the home made tensioners part are really good and easy to make.I'd just put like 1 or 2 links in your chain and use the mech. That will give you perfect tension and should be hassle free.

Tom

Or jump upto a bigger sprocket and snap/bend your axle and sprocket on your cranks,

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I did this before when i snapped my mech hanger years ago on my specialized, ive never been so scared in my life.

On the teeth on the cassette the teeth are slightly cut at an angle to one side to make the chain move more easily.

So when you have the chain sat without anything holding it (mech) it will want to change gear upwards.

but if its working at the moment and you have tested it for a couple of rides it might be okay.

Mike

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Or Just put your mech back on for now and use the 2 adjusting screws on the mech to lock it into the gear that you want to use, you may have to find some longer screws, but it works well. I have shorted my chain and adjusted the mech so there is no possibility of selecting 3 of the largest cogs. Which I have done until I find which gear is best for me. ;)

post-15368-1193610471_thumb.jpg

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