rupintart Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Building up an STP and the brake pads on the BB7 were rubbish. Aztek somethings. I know they were broken in, but they didn't lock for shit. So I'm looking for new pads. What's the biggest difference between the organic, semi, and sintered in terms of performance? I don't give two shits about pad life/wear, just performance. Mainly them locking up. I hate not being able to trust my brakes. I replaced the azteks with some Avid Organics, took them outside and they seem to brake like shit too. Better out of the box than what was on there, but still shit. How long do they typically take to break in to where I can lock the wheel? I rode them down a bridge, and still just suck. Usually that does the trick after one pass, but these not so much. BTW, it's a 203mm rotor with the grey OG Avid calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale-Hill Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Put some water (or even better mud/muddy water on your rotor) then go down the hill again and see if that worked Edit: You also don't want the wheel to lock that much on a trail or DJ bike it's not like trials Edited January 3, 2010 by Dale-Hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupintart Posted January 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Put some water (or even better mud/muddy water on your rotor) then go down the hill again and see if that worked Edit: You also don't want the wheel to lock that much on a trail or DJ bike it's not like trials Well, I think I was just more frustrated with it not locking up at all. I will OCCASIONALLY take it for an urban ride and a brake not holding wouldn't make the ride all that fun... I did the water trick the first time. I'll do it again and see if it does the trick. The descent is about .5 miles and a pretty steep grade, so usually one pass does it. There isn't really shit online about the different pad types other than composition, nothing really about performance comparing the two/three. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisa Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Holding your pads on going down a full constant will only glaze them and make them not work. Take the pads out and see if they have a shiney look to them. If so sand the top layer off flat. Go out and use the brake, short sharp bursts of using the brake are the more effective way of bedding in pads. You could even do this down your hill, just don't drag them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupintart Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Holding your pads on going down a full constant will only glaze them and make them not work. Take the pads out and see if they have a shiney look to them. If so sand the top layer off flat. Go out and use the brake, short sharp bursts of using the brake are the more effective way of bedding in pads. You could even do this down your hill, just don't drag them. Should have elaborated. I don't do a drag down the bridge. I do do short hard bursts to scrape the pad/rotor. Haven't gotten the chance to go out again. It's 37 degrees here. I think I'm gonna move to Florida where it's warm...oh shit, I'm already f**king here. This weather sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 I remember reading that sintered pads typicaly have more bite, but create more heat. I've always used sintered pads on my mountainbike, but I've also never had problems with the standard pads in the BB7 on my trials bike. It might be worth a look at the brakes set up. BB5's can be a bit touchy regarding the position of the inner pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Sintered pads always seem to squeal/howl more than organics too. Though the hold is better with them. If your brake is rubbing slightly it does get annoying wheeling the bike through work having it squeaking every wheel rotation. I always bedded mine in by getting myself to a fast speed then using the brake to slow me down without it locking at all. Keep going up to a high speed and let the brake slow you down again. Read somewhere that performance race cars do something like that for their discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mission Prodigy Trials. Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 Get some Kevlar compound pads of superstar components, 4 pairs for £25. !!! Bargin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Let us know if they're actually any good. I've got the bog-standard cheap Superstar pads and they're rubbish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Get some Kevlar compound pads of superstar components, 4 pairs for £25. !!! Bargin. But they will not work, because they are on dans bike, and you cannot leave anything alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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