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Is A Mtb Suitable For Trials?


Jimbob 2705

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Hi Guys,

Well as I said earlier, I was out riding for about an hour in the rain! :rolleyes:

I enjoyed every second of it :turned:

Anyway, I recorded some videos as I thought you could look at my technique and tell me what I need to improve and how. Sorry about the video quality, It is the only camera I have got!

Here is the first video I did of a 'Track Stand' :

I had only been practicing for about 10 minutes before I did the video. I can find the balance point quite easy now (you might see me find it in the video). I know its not amazing but I think its a start. I think I can easily improve that if I am honest. I almost held one for a minute but I didn't record it! :shifty:

Here is the second video I recorded tonight :

It is just of me trying to balance on the back wheel. I pull in both brakes, lean forward then pull back. I can hold it a bit longer sometimes but not very often (I have only done a long one twice). I could defiantly improve I think so I could do with some advice towards my technique. I am sure quite a lot of it is wrong! :$

My third and final video I did was of me trying to backhop :

As you can see it was a big fail. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,

James

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I will eventually get a Trials Bike. I am just trying to make do with my MTB.

As I am now used to my MTB which has 26" wheels should I get a 26" trials bike? Or should I stick with a mod?

Obviously the advantages of a mod is:

1)Cheaper

2)Harder to break

3)Easier to throw around

I would rather spend less so a Mod is looking like the right option.

Or do I consider a 24"?

Thanks.

James

Edited by Jimbob 2705
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you might want a trials stock stem and new handlebars to stop you bashing your knee :)

You get the big back wheels on stocks trials bikes (26") so their fine ;)

also maybe to shed some more weight by taking off the gears.

hope i helped

Yes you have helped! :turned:

Thanks!

What would be a suitable stock stem and handlebars that would fit my bike? (Nothing too expensive please!)

Also, when you say take gears off, do you mean on the front or back?

On the front I know I could just cut the two outer rings off, but I was wondering if I could just get a single ring (the same as the inner ring on the bike now)? That way I could change back to the three rings if I wanted to go on a bike ride.

Thanks,

James

It depends wht you want to do, if you to do a style simaler to Danny mac then your best off with a 24", if not get a 20"

(Y)

I have to admit I would like to do a style similar to Danny Macaskill, but then a 24" is quite abit more than a normal 20".

Is it possible to do things similar to Danny, but with a 20"?

Thanks,

James

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Would something like this work (Obviously I would have to work out what size I would want):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHAINRING-Shimano-Alivio-FCM410-22T-Inner-Y1GM98010-/290357991021?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item439aaf566d

AND:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310178176824&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

That way I can swap to the above for trials, but if I wanted to use the gears, I would just have to change it back over.

Thanks,

James

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I wouldn't start single speeding your bike, that way you'll have a bike you can ride long distances in the future.

As for mod, stock and 24", really it would be best to try them. Try and get in contact with someone from around your area on here and see if you can join a ride and try some out. I assumed since I learned on a MTB I should get stock so did. But now, almost two years later, I think I could have got on fine and maybe improved faster. 24" I don't think are supposed to be too good for learning the basics but each to their own.

Also for your third backhop video, your pushing forward to try and lift the back wheel. Instead try keeping your body more still in a sitting position and just lift your body up and bend your knees a bit to lift the wheel. It's hard to put into writing :P

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I wouldn't start single speeding your bike, that way you'll have a bike you can ride long distances in the future.

As for mod, stock and 24", really it would be best to try them. Try and get in contact with someone from around your area on here and see if you can join a ride and try some out. I assumed since I learned on a MTB I should get stock so did. But now, almost two years later, I think I could have got on fine and maybe improved faster. 24" I don't think are supposed to be too good for learning the basics but each to their own.

Also for your third backhop video, your pushing forward to try and lift the back wheel. Instead try keeping your body more still in a sitting position and just lift your body up and bend your knees a bit to lift the wheel. It's hard to put into writing :P

Thanks for that. I knew I was doing something wrong! :giggle:

James

Also, I think I should change to one ring on the front, as it would give me clearance which can't be a bad thing! ^_^

Edited by Jimbob 2705
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:huh:

Truing a wheel is something everyone needs to learn to do. Bit of logical thinking and it's a piece of piss - if it's over to one side, tighten the spoke on the opposite side. Granted its not always that simple, but it's the basic principle which always applies. Buy a decent spoke key, go nuts.

Everyone saying learn to pedal hop straight off, forget that. Get your balance dialled, just go out and learn how to track stand for an eternity, ride along kerbs slowly, stuff like that. You might not feel like a hero, but it'll do you a world of good in the long run. That shouldn't take long at all, then you can learn pedal hops and that.

Whoops... i forgot the "not" in there. Meant to say basic truing ISN'T too difficult. I agree, everyone should know the basics.

The problem is - many people overdo it on the first few times. messing it up, then trying to compensate... which only makes it worse. (i know i myself have learned the hard way:)

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