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Couple Of Questions


rab shropshire
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Question the first.

My tensile 96 click developed alot of side to side play, so I checked the lock ring and it was nice and tight, I then took the freewheel apart and noticed there are a few shims inside, so what I have done is removed one of these to allow the lockring to tighten further and now there is less play in it. Basically what im asking, is it ok to remove one of these shims or am i about to have a trip to the dentist.

Second question

I am thinking of building my new front wheel with radial lacing, the hub i will be using is a non disc echo tr. I have heard that radial lacing is a bad idea but never been able to understand why. So the question is, will it be ok to radially lace my front wheel.

Thanks in advance for the advise.

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Question the first.

My tensile 96 click developed alot of side to side play, so I checked the lock ring and it was nice and tight, I then took the freewheel apart and noticed there are a few shims inside, so what I have done is removed one of these to allow the lockring to tighten further and now there is less play in it. Basically what im asking, is it ok to remove one of these shims or am i about to have a trip to the dentist.

Second question

I am thinking of building my new front wheel with radial lacing, the hub i will be using is a non disc echo tr. I have heard that radial lacing is a bad idea but never been able to understand why. So the question is, will it be ok to radially lace my front wheel.

Thanks in advance for the advise.

Front freewheels are something I know absolutely nothing about, so I'll leave that to someone else.

Radial lacing is something that was debated for ages and just seems to have gone away a bit. I personally like the look of it but wouldn't use it. The point of crossing spokes in a wheel build is to make the wheel stronger. I'm gonna need to be drawing me some pictures I reckon...

Here's one I've just knocked up to hopefully help you:

post-497-12748864951_thumb.jpg

Basically it's more flexy but lighter and sometimes aesthetically more pleasing to go radial. It's stronger and a little heavier (but bugger all really) to go with a 3x cross pattern. The other option is to go 3x on the disc side (if you're running a disc) and radial on the non disc side...

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Radial spokes point straight from the centre of the hub. The shortest distance from the spoke hole to the edge of the flange is in the radial direction. This means the spoke holes have the least material to resist the spokes pulling through when the spokes are radial. There's an increased chance of the hub failing through spokes ripping out through the flanges in this case (It's still very rare AFAIK). If a hub manufacturer says it's OK to lace their hub radially then it shouldn't ever be a problem, if not you may get no warranty support if it fails (And it'll be very obvious to anyone in the warranty department looking at the hub that it was laced radially thanks to the marks left by the spokes on the hub).

Radial spokes on disk wheels or both sides of rear wheels are to be completely avoided as the stresses caused by radial spokes trying to transfer torque get very large indeed...

As for the freewheel - those shims were put in to adjust the bearings in the factory. Removing the shims until the play is just short of removed is the correct way to adjust the freewheel bearings. If there's a big difference it may indicate something else gone wrong in the freewheel - have a good look for evidence of bearings being damaged, missing bearings of deformed parts in the freewheel just in case.

Edited by psycholist
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