MadManMike

The Car Thread

25708 posts in this topic

Photoshop!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, just a couple of hours of elbow grease.

It's had all new panels, so it genuinely is just one shade of red now :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite car related but it's for my car and it's paint, I know @Tom Booth will probably have the answer!

I bought an Ifor Williams trailer recently, it's galvanised but has been painted in the past as some areas have become worn and rusted. I stripped it down, sanded back the paint to key, treated any rust with the Bilt Hamber stuff and primed treated areas with red oxide. Now because the thing is a bit beaten I thought covering it in Tetraseal stone chip would be a good idea as it'll resist wear and tear and when applied with a Schutz gun it leaves a textured finish to hide any sins. Unfortunately the stuff has reacted (crazing as it's shrunk) just about everywhere and I can't understand why as I've had success with it before. I feared that I had maybe put it on too thick, but when I experimented in other areas it didn't make a difference, I'm assuming it's too high a solvent content that is causing this. I really can't be arsed with stripping it all back again, I haven't got time and need it operational within a week. Is there any other type of paint i can slap over that won't react? Do I resort to using Hammerite as that seems to stick to just about anything? Do I need to give the stone chip some more time to fully harden before I can coat over?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

S2000 and a cleannnnn EK hatch in for some electrical gremlins sorting this week. 

 

76A89277-548C-49F1-B11C-47A44FA94147.thumb.jpeg.f8422146ac44c9bdc155a8838f3cc340.jpeg

786A198A-AFF8-44C4-951B-771BCF14DC1A.thumb.jpeg.133f0efffb99b74d1441857689af97d2.jpeg

S2000 was a simple misfire though the fans are running all the time even when cold. Suspected fan switch on thermostat housing. 

Civic has just been painted, and now won’t run.. lack of decent/clean earths is my first thought. 

EP3 Type R in tonight for a VTC gear change, and should have another Civic EK coming in to complete an abandoned K20 conversion. Been quiet the last few weeks but it’s good to have the book filling up again. 

Edited by SamKidney
3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, CurtisRider said:

Not quite car related but it's for my car and it's paint, I know @Tom Booth will probably have the answer!

I bought an Ifor Williams trailer recently, it's galvanised but has been painted in the past as some areas have become worn and rusted. I stripped it down, sanded back the paint to key, treated any rust with the Bilt Hamber stuff and primed treated areas with red oxide. Now because the thing is a bit beaten I thought covering it in Tetraseal stone chip would be a good idea as it'll resist wear and tear and when applied with a Schutz gun it leaves a textured finish to hide any sins. Unfortunately the stuff has reacted (crazing as it's shrunk) just about everywhere and I can't understand why as I've had success with it before. I feared that I had maybe put it on too thick, but when I experimented in other areas it didn't make a difference, I'm assuming it's too high a solvent content that is causing this. I really can't be arsed with stripping it all back again, I haven't got time and need it operational within a week. Is there any other type of paint i can slap over that won't react? Do I resort to using Hammerite as that seems to stick to just about anything? Do I need to give the stone chip some more time to fully harden before I can coat over?

How long between red oxide and stone chip?

I can't really see anything you've done wrong but it really comes down to what was on there before. Farm stuff is always just make it a colour and go for a cheap as possible so alot of shitty products get thrown on them. To be honest I'd suggest your stone chip searched through your red oxide and into the previous stuff.

My suggestion would be upol Raptor, it's stone chip and truck bed liner but it's a 2k product so less interested in searching down into older layers. That might just get you through without too much work but I can't guarantee really.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Tom, I left the red oxide a day which is what I would usually do and never had issues before. The previous paint is of unknown type, likely cheap and cheerful (or not in my case) though. I was looking at the Raptor paint, the trouble is I'm not ready for 2k paint yet as I don't have the mask as per your advice and I'm not in the position to buy one because of this bloody trailer! I assume there isn't a 1k equivalent?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1k equivalent is your stonechip really.

Upol raptor isn't a true 2k product, and it's that heavy it doesn't produce much if any overspray so you'd be fine with a standard charcoal mask and abit of ventilation dude.

I've only used it once and just treated it like stonechip, just builds more so only a single pass is needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've ordered some, I didn't want to spend any more on it but I also want the sodding thing out of my workshop! Fingers crossed it works! Yesterday I tried painting red oxide on the chassis over the top of the stonechip and it didn't react at all, I don't get it?! Anyway I'm just going to blast a load of waxoyl style stuff underneath to ensure water can't get in too easily and that'll have to do, it'll only get used on local roads and most of those don't get any salt during the winter anyway!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go for a light coat of raptor, see how you cover and get it out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Missed that advise and got it coated...

2018-09-28_17_16.11-1.thumb.jpg.1b5f724e7f9467945d21ec9a56c6c395.jpg2018-09-28_17_15.50_HDR.thumb.jpg.77bc86ab3db0dc162eacddd6f0aee494.jpg

No sign of shrinking, a 4 bottle pack just about did the 10x5 foot trailer inside and out! Fingers crossed tomorrow it will still look the same...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To be honest if you've survived the first 10 or so mins you'll have got away with it..  looking good dude.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bloody hell, another episode of Binky!

At this rate it might be finished by 2050 after all!

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could someone help me understand AN fittings?

I will be using braided line and AN fittings throughout the mini fuel system as it will all be routed internally and I'm not bending hardlines for that :lol:. The system uses 8mm ID feed and return, I think -6 AN is the size I will be working with? The fuel reg has 8mm push fit tails, how do I convert from push fit tails to threaded AN? I think its this fitting but not 100%..

fse_turbo_fuel-reg.jpg.19ce48c7a9c66185f342402e9be34006.jpg

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/protec-fuel-systems-an-6-male-to-8mm-barb-ptc15801/

My fuel tank has the same fittings, but I think I'll be swapping to a ali tank with AN fittings anyway so not an issue there. I think Ill probably plumb from the reg to the carb with rubber hose for now, then when I understand a little more replace with AN and braid again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I was at the unit this evening I had a nose under my friends 240z's bonnet to see what he'd done for his AN lines. He seems to have a line with a barbed fitting onto the fuel filter at one end, and an AN fitting onto a distribution block at the other. I guess if you use -6 so it's 8mm ID, and its a soft hose then you can just not use an AN fitting one end. On the other hand, if you want the fancy bits throughout then the thingy you linked too looks right to me, but I'm going off nothing more than the description! 

The aforementioned line: 

DSC_8154.thumb.JPG.12daecdfa21c0859edccac48515fe996.JPG

And a couple of engine bay shots for good measure, and to show how worth it AN fittings are: 

DSC_8160.thumb.JPG.d1a67afc8dfe9c8d4863219eba157023.JPG

DSC_8156.thumb.JPG.f080f1f1f931497689d4282cd8cb39b3.JPG

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Robin, I only want to use AN stuff for the ease in the future.

If anyone needs to know for future, I did find this last night and it is exactly what I'm needing...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165056erl

-6 AN to 5/16 tube adapter apparently..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AN fittings are so stupidly expensive.  Al from the skid factory (mcmtv2) did a good guide on them a while back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll check that out dude cheers.

I know what you mean about the cost, but I can see there worth.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on’t Honda. 

Cadwell Tuesday next week. Cars been stood for 3-4 months since Oulton last and was pretty grim so I set to reassembling the interior and tidying some bits and bobs up. 

- New Hybrid Racing intake and filter 

- Replacement PBS brake pads 

- New rear ARB links (rose jointed) 

- Brake pipes clipped down inside 

- Bit o paint inside 

- Rerouted shifter cables 

- Flush through brake fluid 

Re-insured, feels like a rocket after driving the 306. 

CB0D16C3-73F7-41FD-A346-62A751D4BBC0.thumb.jpeg.776e8cb87f7848ad7451551b031fc354.jpeg

9C10902B-4E95-4C6A-B565-DFCF80AEDB38.thumb.jpeg.09895ec0934394d4ee7b0947f78f1473.jpeg

C45780A6-3957-43F7-AE44-7F01CDD649DC.thumb.jpeg.dc90cbe9ccab09bfb77fa18446b7f3fc.jpeg

77EA5AD7-DE23-405C-BD15-6A5D26590F0F.thumb.jpeg.d638695c655ada9d3f11f12f279cf587.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All of the above was a waste of time for the most abysmal track day I’ve been on. 110+ cars due to a booking error, called off in the morning for fog and idiots running slicks in less than ideal conditions causing red flags and an eventual early track closure. 

E385AB7B-E8D5-4521-B8E9-CE90C792FFA2.thumb.jpeg.9a7e37624b9d5475c8d1c4ffbb95e0e5.jpeg

2E68D5D7-A916-4A21-976B-D1B11193A29A.thumb.jpeg.efdc059d02145b5a0e74eabbd3ef1389.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

110+ cars at Cadwell does not sound primo.  Did they offer partial refunds or anything or is it the usual track day organiser thing of "whatevz, not our fault"?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Mark W said:

110+ cars at Cadwell does not sound primo.  Did they offer partial refunds or anything or is it the usual track day organiser thing of "whatevz, not our fault"?

They’ve booked Snetterton in December exclusively for those at Cadwell that day completely free of charge to us, so two for one sort of deal by means of an apology. 

They obviously knew track time per driver/car wasn’t going to be great so I think a second day for nothing is very good of them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this just for cars, or do vans count too? I've got a Vito 120 (3.0 TD V6 from the E class mercs of that era)

The troll factor is high with this. ~280bhp and oodles of torque. Will push along a lot of hot hatches. Quite good fun watching the drivers trying to work out what it is!

It does desperately need some alloys though. ☹️

IMG_20180923_123158.jpg

5 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, SamKidney said:

They’ve booked Snetterton in December exclusively for those at Cadwell that day completely free of charge to us, so two for one sort of deal by means of an apology. 

They obviously knew track time per driver/car wasn’t going to be great so I think a second day for nothing is very good of them. 

Had a few Westfield guys on the same day and they thought that was a stupid idea for compensation, it's bloody miles away and he knows most people won't take the offer up. Sounds like a nightmare anyway, sorry to hear it was so disappointing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:

Had a few Westfield guys on the same day and they thought that was a stupid idea for compensation, it's bloody miles away and he knows most people won't take the offer up. Sounds like a nightmare anyway, sorry to hear it was so disappointing!

I initially thought the same, I’d have rather have another Cadwell day/value credited to my account to use when it suited me but I suppose they could have just done nothing at all. 

Taking it as an opportunity to try somewhere new for “nothing”. Borrowing my friends Transit to take it on though.. I don’t fancy 3 hours 40mins each way in December in the Civic anymore. 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Joe Sheehan said:

Is this just for cars, or do vans count too? I've got a Vito 120 (3.0 TD V6 from the E class mercs of that era)

The troll factor is high with this. ~280bhp and oodles of torque. Will push along a lot of hot hatches. Quite good fun watching the drivers trying to work out what it is!

It does desperately need some alloys though. ☹️

IMG_20180923_123158.jpg

I'd say vans are more than welcome, especially troll vans like that, haha.

You've gotta book it on a track day, that would be amazing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.