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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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It did, but he got done over by the powers that be:

"Andretti’s hope was to catch a lucky caution and move to the front while the rest of the field had to pit.

That caution came out when Ed Jones spun into the Turn 7 tires with 44 minutes to go. But instead of the pits being closed for an additional lap, they were opened early. As a result, Andretti remained in the rear of the field."

Seems no-one knows why they opened the pits early when they ordinarily wouldn't have done.  Good to know the rules in Indy get as randomly applied as they do in F1 I guess.

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First track day in the coupe this year completed with no issues yesterday. 

New final drive and gearset is ridiculous, so good. Car feels a little bit understeery compared to last year, especially in the wet which has never been much of an issue, so I need to give the alignment a good look over but otherwise sound. Engine feels much stronger and much smoother after the head gasket too. Runs much better. Cadwell should be excellent. 

Aquired two Del Sol VTi’s to break down into bits too. 

Horrid black JDM example. 80k miles. A peach of a B16A and a factory LSD gearbox though, exactly what my EG6 would have had originally so that’s where it’s destined to end up. 

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And a crash damaged red UK example.  Low mileage at 43k, B16A2 and box and a working transtop roof should see it convert parts into currency nicely. 

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I think the death sentence for most is rot.  Mine was pretty scabby towards the end. I made fairly decent money breaking it though, a good chunk of the parts went abroad.

A working transtop is really cool for its age:

 

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In thrilling conclusions news, took Nic's car to the garage I normally go to.  They drove it, jacked it up, immediately said they could see the wheel bearings were f**ked, replaced them and now the car is fine.  Funnily enough, it didn't need a new gearbox.  Surprise surprise.

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My parents have bought a motorhome and every year head to Worthing for the last weekend in July for the Americana show. They've asked if me and Jenny would like to head down for the weekend and suggested entering my fairlane in the show, RIP my bank balance, would it work if I bought shares in Shell or BP now?

Eitherway I've started to prepare the car for the run, spent yesterday servicing the car so filter change, fluids changed, changed the gearbox filter an the modulator. Just ordered an aluminium radiator for it too as the original seems to be weeping abit so may aswell upgrade while I'm doing it. Need to drop the back axle now and get the rear wheels off for new tyres (you cant take the wheels off, the axle doesn't drop low enough to get them out). Adjust the brakes up and should be good to go! Looking forward to it!

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Abit of filler in the door from a previous war wound but other then that totally solid, it's not even that bad in the engine bay in real life just a tosser of a camera. The engine bay would clean up so well with a weekends work

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First Cadwell track day was a bit of a let down. Car felt sluggish, and something broke before lunch that kept pulling it to the left. Bit gutted considering the effort and money I’ve just put into rectifying it’s issues but that’s the joy of motoring! I think.. :ermm:

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  • 2 weeks later...

After almost 2 years of owning (and rarely driving) the MX5, I thought it was about time to take it out and see what it / I could do together!

Booked in an evening session at the Snetterton 300 circuit and had a great time - although the session was supposed to be 2hrs a large oil dump (as shown by all the sand) and a couple of accidents really limited running, but for my first time out on track really happy. 

The cars pretty standard and I'm not planning on spending a load of money on it (At £1,100 for the car I'll just drive it into the ground and update when things break). Any tips for improvement? I could bum feel a lot of areas where I could be quicker - especially in the higher speed corners, but didn't want to risk a higher speed off first time around! I'll build up to that in time!

https://youtu.be/pCMapWNGVgI

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Edited by Simpson
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Glad you had fun! Just keep the car serviced, keep water and oil in it, and brake pads, and enjoy. You're doing exactly the right thing by not throwing money at the car, you will learn more and have less issues with it standard.

Hard to see where improvements can be made given the camera angle (better / easier with the driver in view) but your lines look great so I'd say it's just seat time now.

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Depending on how old the tyres are, some fresher ones might be a good shout.  Not so much just for pure grip's sake, but when I bought my Mk2.5 that's a bit newer than yours, the tyres on it were ancient and had properly gone off.  The lack of grip wasn't that much of a problem, but the ride was shocking.  They weren't supple at all any more, so felt pretty harsh, and if you went over any change in road surface it felt like poops and got a bit loosey goosey.  I change to some Michelin Pilot Sports as I'd had them on my old Mk1 (it was literally the same set that I'd had on my old Mk1 as it happens) and the feel of the car was so, so much better.

My car had had a couple of very careful owners who didn't put much mileage on it, so I think because of that they simply hadn't needed to change the tyres.  If you got yours from someone similar it might be worth seeing if you can find some decent cheap-ish tyres out there.  I wasn't really that bothered about what I had, but I was able to get hold of a set of the Michelins cheap for my original Mk1, and then got another set cheap from a similar source - they're a spec tyre for Ginetta racing, so they'd done one brief track session but other than that were brand new.  Should be the same size as what's on your car, so might be worth a look to see if you can find some.  Can't remember off the top of my head, but I think the latest set I got were Pilot Sport 3s.  I don't have much to compare them with, but they seem really nice to me (Y) 

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Apologies for diving straight in with a question. As usual, lots of cool things going on in this thread..it's hard to keep up! :)

So I've had a nightmare few days with my LC. I thought it would be a good idea to upgrade to Brembo's from the LCR...I now have an undriveable car with a very spongy brake pedal! There is definitely something wrong with the brakes and am I wondering if I've broken the master cylinder somehow? The reason I say this is I bled the brakes with an Ezbleed as usual (all seemed to go fine) and when I finished I used a syringe to remove excess brake fluid from the resevour. However, every time I remove fluid, it seemingly re-fills itself?! (I literally watch the fluid rise back up). I have never seen this before, it's very odd! Apart from poor braking/spongey pedal I'm also getting what feels like ABS kicking in at low speeds (could be unrelated/sensor?) as well as a grinding sound noticeable when turning right. I think the RHS disc is catching on the metal pad shims slightly. All in all I'm now contemplating if it's worth keeping this 190k mile car on the road or going to buy a Mk2 Octavia VRS (Petrol or diesel - undecided)..

Edit: I can also hear a slight hissing noise when pressing the brake pedal when the engine is on. I don't think it happens all the time though (will check).

As usual, any help is greatly appreciated!

Edited by David
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Unsure about the brake issue, sounds very odd. The hissing noise is 'normal' for servoed brakes.

I can tell you though that the Mk2 vRS is a cracking car! Had a petrol one with Stage 1 map and it was a brilliant all-rounder. Pleasingly quick, comfy, not expensive to run, massive boot, decent fuel economy (40mpg+ on a run) and just generally well put together.

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Brakes sound very weird. If there's fluid leaving the system back into the res constantly then something must be taking its place, and that'd most likely be air which would suggest either an ineffective bleed or a leak elsewhere.

If you've checked over lines/connections and they all seem ok (I'd expect the fluid to leave entirely if this was the case, usually) then perhaps try rebleeding - EziBleed/other pressure bleeder is the way to go, but you will want to actuate the pedal as part of the process and don't forget to bleed the master cylinder last too. It's possible to bleed the ABS system though I think you need VCDS.

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