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The Photography Thread


mr ailsbury

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I would say your best bet is to have someone with Photoshop/Illustrator skills convert it into a vector image - then you'll be able to scale it without loss of quality. That would mean having flat colours for each item, i.e. no texture, I think.

I'd help but I have no idea how. There are probably tutorials available online.

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not sure if this is the place to go for help but hey...

I no photoshopper...

Ok so I have this image, a matisse cutout, and the highest res version I can find is this one

attachicon.gifIMG_1573-1.JPG

its simple shapes and block colours (or could be made to be). Id like to blow it up so that it could be printed huuuuge (over 2m wide), without it looking like a big pixelated pile of poop. How do I go about it ?

I also want to remove any colour from the background - so either transparent or just white, and maybe take the individual items and make them filled with block colour (possibly limit the number of colours used)

Any help much appreciated.

EDIT the uploader seems to have scaled the image a bit so I have 1918x866

You'll want to redraw it in Illustrator, doesn't matter which size - just copy the original for best clarity and then scale it to your desired size. As it'll be a vector image you don't have to worry about image degredation when scaling.

There is an auto-trace feature in Illustrator that'll make a 'best-guess' of the image, but at that size I wouldn't hope for much.

Once the item has been made a vector image you'll have complete control over colour choice of each individual item. You can group specific shapes to colour them in one go, rather than doing it on an individual basis.

It's not a big job, but bare in mind how Matisse actually created those shapes……might be a simpler and quicker approach.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heyy folks, not posted in here before, since roughly the start of this year I've tried to get into photography a wee bit, mainly when riding. Here's some samples of some of my shots.

10516593_10152382947872935_4999669428284

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10377438_10152645033957935_4621697712130

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10339663_10152645034072935_2951565275172

10390392_10152310194032935_8486371998172
10373658_10152310195632935_3318832936563

I have been very privelidged by the fact that my Dad has a brilliant collection of photography equipment so I've not had to purchase anything myself yet. I'm off to Whistler next year for the summer season so need to sort out some kit myself, I'm purchasing a macbook tomorrow which I hope to teach myself photoshop (do most of my stuff in lightroom). I've mostly always borrowed my Dad's Canon 7d which has been great for me although if I'm going to buy myself a body I don't think it would feel right to buy another one for myself so maybe a step up. Anybody have any advice for what to look out for? I can buy anytime up until May when I go away, there's obviously the new 7d mkii which needs to come down in price first, or maybe even a 5d mkiii if they continue to drop in price.

Anyway enough waffling, I hope I can look back on posts like this and see some progress from these pics. I'm open to any critisism or tips.

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Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it however big or small. Shot these last few days when I borrowed a 1d mkiv. Took some getting used to so not great and it was dark so had to try and compensate with the bike shot. I need to do more none bike related stuff. Booking my Whistler flights tomorrow :D

1606424_10152653299727935_14111511953641

p5pb11598380.jpg

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Got a weird issue with a Canon EF.

Frame counter works fine when it's not loaded, but as soon as I put a film in it, it can't seem to advance itself past S - I can see it trying though. Any ideas on what's causing it? I don't overly mind, but lost a roll of film last week after forgetting what I was up to and ripping it out of the barrel.

Edited by Skoze
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Shooting a friends party tomorrow night, I'd appreciate some pointers, I'm nervous to get it right even though it's just a friend of mine but it is his 21st.

It is going to be in a village hall, I guess it will be fairly well lit, obviously not perfect but better than your average party. First decision is what kit to take. Here's a break down of what I can get my hands on (mostly my dads kit, wish it was mine!):

-Canon 1d mkiv, crop factor 1.3, suitable lenses: Canon ef f4 24-105mm, canon f1.8 50mm or canon f2.8 is 70-200mm.

-Canon 7d, crop factor 1.6, suitable lenses: Canon efs f3.5-f4.5 10-22mm, canon 17-55mm f2.8 and the above of coarse.

-Can't remember the exact flash but I think it's a canon speedilte.

With the 7d I have a better choice of lenses but the 1d has better iso capability and smaller crop factor and better detailed pics. At the moment I'm thinking the 1d with 24-105 and flash, my concern being that it might not be wide enough in certain cases and also I'll be consuming many beers so the 7d is slightly less more painful if it was for whatever reason harmed. What you reckon?

Also any tips for capturing it? I've only ever done photography as a hobby for myself. My plan is to try get a lot of varied shots rather than loads of shots that are all very similar. Any help would be appreciated.

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24-105 will be fine. Any wider than that and you get nice stretched people...

Hard to give advice without seeing the venues lighting, but all the parties I've shot I've used a flashgun pointing at the ceiling, at around f5.6 and shutter speed 15 or 20. The result is something like this:

10419494_10154778318590587_3274056993487

(Shameless selfie)

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I get sick of the fact I own a decent amount of gear and never use it.

Tried Astrophotography again

2dtvyu9.jpg

Try a shorter shutter, less light pollution or none if possible and if it's windy like it looks in that photo weighing down your tripod if you have a hook on the bottom of the Center column.

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Try a shorter shutter, less light pollution or none if possible and if it's windy like it looks in that photo weighing down your tripod if you have a hook on the bottom of the Center column.

Yeah I figured that I had the exposure too long. This was taken at 30" at 18mm. Previous times I had gone out and shot the sky I haddn't edited with Lightroom and it was harder to edit them well. Now that I am using LR I don't think I need to shoot so long of an exposure.

Weighing down the tripod is a good idea though, never thought of that one...

Have you had experience image stacking? I'm not sure how well that would work given that the stars like to move a noticeable amount in less than one minute...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anybody looked into canons new 24mm lens by chance? Thinking about getting it for a christmas prezzie, I love my 50mm f1.8 so if this is anything similar then I'd be happy chap. http://www.digitalrev.com/product/canon-ef-s-24mm-f/MTEwMzc4MA_A_A?googlebase=1&country=GB&gclid=CjwKEAiA74qkBRCdrM-6or7U73QSJABCDL9p1IpxU6G7icrO8GggVBTvtalYlVmpu6DXLiuIFh1zlxoCUGHw_wcB

Few of my recent shots I'll leave with you folks too.

p5pb11700565.jpg

p5pb11608326.jpg

p5pb11630709.jpg

p5pb11671564.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing amazing or anything stupid like that.

But about 6 months ago I got into taking Polaroids with an old 600, nothing special. Just a nice keep sake at track days and things, snap somebodies car, give them the picture to stick on their fridge then get them to give you a few passenger laps.

Well about a month ago my dad gave me an Olympus Trip 35 point and shoot, I took a couple of pictures with it and they weren't fantastic. Here are a few particularly bad ones.

1655942_1544681689080340_558984502738214

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And even with a reasonable quality flash in the hotfoot it didn't seem to be able to operate quick enough in low light when in it's automatic 'flash' setting.

(sorry for the subject matter)

10644492_1544680982413744_37663989349812

It wasn't working as it should, and I contemplated just binning it because replacements were so cheap. But then I thought, if everybody binned things like this and bought another one there wouldn't be any left. And I like using it.

So I sent the camera off to be professionally cleaned, it came back and was taking some lovely pictures, but the colours were very pale and it was over exposing, I've been told after sending some pictures of the back of the camera to a specialist that it's the light seals. So I've ordered a new set and I'l replace them next week when they arrive.

I'm really keen to shoot with it, because I'm told they're something that can 'last a life time' and some of the pictures I've seen shot with them are fantastic.

My long convoluted question is...

Does anybody have a negative scanner? And can anybody recommend me one?

:)

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Take that as a no then!

Well, I've shot a lot of film with the Trip 35 this week. Things are improving.

I replaced the light seals.

The top seal is one I've replaced, the lower seal is what was there.

10411210_1572060533009122_66883033236920

I found out the selenium meter wasn't working correctly, it was only working for about a CM of it's circumference so that's why my shots were all over the place.

Because it isn't digital a lot of people won't have a f**king clue what a selenium meter is, so here goes...

1377455_1572060443009131_583563191696117

A selenium meter is the cool bobbly looking ring around the lens.

It's solar powered, and as the Trip gets more light to the ring around the lens the more a 'needle' slides from left to right.
The needle sits 2mm below a sandwich plate.
Below that is two notched cams sat next to each other, the first notched cam is for the lower shutter speed, and the second cam is for the higher shutter speed. If the light gets great enough to make the needle move more than half way, it switches shutter speed.
As more light enters the selenium meter the needle moves further to the left, and as you depress the shutter action the cam moves up to the needle, sandwiches it in the plate and that's what sets the F stop. Because the cam notches move the shutter arm down as the cam graduates.
I took a video which will hopefully show it -
It's fascinatingly simple by todays standards, but bloody hell can you imagine that it 1968?
Things I like about it, that I've grown to enjoy over the last week.
I dropped it, it's got a dent. It still works perfectly.
You can see the camera's settings through a mini window in the view finder.
10453439_1572060449675797_97189038256524
I've taken it apart, and fixed it.
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I didn't even read how to do it online, it's just SO easy to do anything on.
I like it, I can see why people still use them today. Yes it costs £3 a film and £5 to develop it, but it's permanent and you get to keep what you've taken. It's not like a digital where you take 5 shots and pick the best, you have to slow down a little and that helps an amateur like me think about what they're taking a picture of.
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It'd be worth getting some black and white film, some chemicals, a red light and some black-out curtains and making yourself a little dark room somewhere. Developing your own photos is the tits and worth doing at least once, especially if you're shooting film in the first place.

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I got the light seal kit on eBay, arrived within 48 hours.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755799084?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've been enjoying shooting with this thing so much I'm really tempted to send it to this bloke - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Olympus-Trip-35-Refurb-service-with-2-year-Warranty-over-200-happy-customers-/201235169234?

He will fully refurbish it, replace the selenium meter with a remanufactured replacement and graphite lubricate everything. He's the guy I sent it to for cleaning, and he did such a good job restoring the body of the camera I'm really tempted to just do it right, once and have something that will last for years.

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