forteh Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Call it being too tightfisted to buy a proper UST setup and too stubborn to admit that it's defeated me You watch the tyre suffer explosive deflation on the cycle home from work now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Ordered a new front tyre from crc yesterday (intense xc system 5 - 2.25" tubeless ready, by all accounts grippy, folding and less than 600g for 15 quid!) which came through the post this morning. Naturally having just given the borrowed compressor back to my mate I was a bit hesitant to unmount the old panaracer incase I couldn't mount the new tyre with the trackpump alone. Regardless I swapped the tyres over, put the sealant in and went about pumping, with a couple of strategic squirts of sealant from the syringe and some reasonably gentle pumping it went up and has sealed perfectly! My old mixture of the OKO @1:1 with water plus some liquid latex had all gummed up into a sloppy ball of goo which had been unbalancing my front wheel by quite a bit! Removing that along with the 200g lighter tyre should make a nice difference to the way it handles Hopefully will get out over cannock later on today and see how the new tyre combo handles (ITS xc system5 front/maxxis larsen TT rear). If I dont like the larsen on the back I will probably pick up another of the intense tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Let me know how that intense goes, I had been wondering about getting a pair the other day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Just got back from a lap of the monkey up Cannock, the trails are mostly dry with patches of damp muddy bits. The intense rocks on the front, gives a nice controllable feeling when it starts to break traction and grips like a good un. The panaracers would grip more but then suddenly let go. The Larsen on the back on the whole works okish, but any sign of moisture or mud and it's spinning up on rocks and roots. I might persevere with it but it's definitely a summer tyre! Get the intense, most impressed with it so far and for 15 quid it's not gonna break the bank Edited June 17, 2013 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Weighed the bike at work at lunchtime, 14.09kg / 31lbs bang on, the front wheel has lost about 350g (from 2.2kg to 1.85kg or there abouts) so I'm pretty happy with it now. I will get another intense for the rear later in the week after payday which should shed another 150-190g When I first built the intense up it was 14.86kg/32.7lbs so it has gone on a fairly considerable diet and with the lighter rear tyre should dip down to a little over 30.5lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 Got the rear intense tyre on, didn't mount up by hand but the bead was much more deformed from folding that the front one, hopefully once it has set onto the rim for a while it will straighten out and blow on by hand in the future. Went for 11 miles of tortured muddy climbing round clent hills on saturday (1800 foot elevation gain in 90 minutes is certainly a bit more demanding on the legs and lungs than cannock chase!) and suffered pretty bad with wheel spin in the mud and roots on the rear, dropped the psi down to about 32 and it's a lot better; still got to play with it though. Bike now weighs 13.936kg / 30.66lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 17, 2013 Report Share Posted August 17, 2013 I finally went tubeless today. It was the easiest thing ever, I just cut a BMX tube valve off that had a locking ring, left on my normal rim tape and shoved in 3 cups of Stans (Rubber Queens are notorious for being rather pourous so I figured I may as well get it over with), tyres seated within about 20 seconds of pumping with the compressor whilst I got the bead to seat. No loss of pressure since pumping, however that may change over night... The bike feels so different now in a positive way, the tyres make a weird hollow noise and it all feels a little more responsive. I'll find out what it is like on the proper trails soon I hope! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 I finally went tubeless today. It was the easiest thing ever, I just cut a BMX tube valve off that had a locking ring, left on my normal rim tape and shoved in 3 cups of Stans (Rubber Queens are notorious for being rather pourous so I figured I may as well get it over with), tyres seated within about 20 seconds of pumping with the compressor whilst I got the bead to seat. No loss of pressure since pumping, however that may change over night... The bike feels so different now in a positive way, the tyres make a weird hollow noise and it all feels a little more responsive. I'll find out what it is like on the proper trails soon I hope! Still running the Rockrider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Nah I got a Giant Trance for a good price, fits me better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted August 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 I finally went tubeless today. It was the easiest thing ever, I just cut a BMX tube valve off that had a locking ring, left on my normal rim tape and shoved in 3 cups of Stans (Rubber Queens are notorious for being rather pourous so I figured I may as well get it over with), tyres seated within about 20 seconds of pumping with the compressor whilst I got the bead to seat. No loss of pressure since pumping, however that may change over night... The bike feels so different now in a positive way, the tyres make a weird hollow noise and it all feels a little more responsive. I'll find out what it is like on the proper trails soon I hope! Good stuff Since putting the ITS tyres on mine have been faultless and only suffered from one flat, one of the valve stem lock rings had come loose and leaked through past the o-ring - tightened it up again and reseated the bead by hand without much difficulty. Have since put a dab of loctite on the lock rings! The sound takes some getting used to and when you start dropping the pressure you suddenly start finding grip that you never could before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikingnunn Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 if your old panaracers were fine and you'd not gotten a puncture with them for 10 years then why change them? seems like a lot of hassle that wasn't needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 if your old panaracers were fine and you'd not gotten a puncture with them for 10 years then why change them? seems like a lot of hassle that wasn't needed Thread bump there pal. People on this forum like to change things whether it's needed or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikingnunn Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 but there is no need to go through this hassle, i could understand if he got loads of puncture but this just seems abit silly to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 but there is no need to go through this hassle, i could understand if he got loads of puncture but this just seems abit silly to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) if your old panaracers were fine and you'd not gotten a puncture with them for 10 years then why change them? seems like a lot of hassle that wasn't needed I also saved over a pound of rotating weight per wheel by putting the ITS tyres on, also the feel of tubeless over tubed is completely different. Low pressure in my panaracers with tubes would cause them to squirm all over and fold off the rim, same tyres but tubeless and they're much more stable at lower pressures. The porous side walls of the panaracers meant that I needed to update tyres to something intended for purpose. Since putting the ITS tyres on I run 20psi lower tyres, it's less tiring, grips better and rolls better Edited September 16, 2013 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Bit of a bump here, but have you ever tried normal tyres on your getto rim strip ? Iv got stans ust rims but did run a rim strip on my 517 before that, of course at first I bought the tubeless tyres but after slashing a side wall coming down snowdow I stuck on a standard conti, results are amazing. Super light and fast. Holds pressure for weeks. Cheap.. All the conti tyres iv tried work well some others. But yeah tubeless really is the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 I'm currently using the intense system5 which are tubeless ready, they have a more airtight carcass but don't use the ust bead setup. My old panaracers worked ok but they didn't hold air too well due to porous carcass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 I resealed my wheels this weekend, not been out on the bike since October time ( I think) and the original oko off road sealant (intended for farm quads and the like) had dried into clumps in the bead well meaning that it will never seal again without clearing it all out. As I'm pretty much out of the original sealant I figured I would try out magic milk, the oko cycle specific sealant that is analogous to stans (thin latex based rather than thick paste). It's a synthetic latex base which is apparently much kinder to the tyres and doesn't dry out as quickly as stans. It also doesn't dry into a ball of rubber like stans. Stripped the tyres off, scrubbed all the old sealant off and remounted them on the wheels. Put 1/4 bottle (60ml) in each tyre and made sure it was evenly distributed round the bead. Had to blow it up with a compressor because the rim well isn't tight on the bead, a couple more wraps of tape would sort that but it's no hassle really. The front ITS tyre seems to have perished for some reason and was blowing a good set of bubbles through the sidewall, spinning and shaking the sealant around has mostly cured that though, I guess riding it will get the last minute holes. The magic milk was 16 quid for 2 x 250ml bottles, enough to do 8 26" tyres, so should last a while given that it's supposed to last 9-12 months before being top up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 tubelessed my niner this weekend. found that the tyre was unrideably soft the morning after, but each day they wheels hold pressure for longer. is this the norm with tubeless? i bought tubeless specific tyres (schwalbe rocket rons) i left them at work with 40 psi in and i'm hoping they'll have the majority of that pressure when i return tomorrow. if they aren't have i done something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 They just need riding, my rear one was a bit like that but has got better and better. My front has been absolutely perfect since the start though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 tubelessed my niner this weekend. found that the tyre was unrideably soft the morning after, but each day they wheels hold pressure for longer. is this the norm with tubeless? i bought tubeless specific tyres (schwalbe rocket rons) i left them at work with 40 psi in and i'm hoping they'll have the majority of that pressure when i return tomorrow. if they aren't have i done something wrong? They just need riding, my rear one was a bit like that but has got better and better. My front has been absolutely perfect since the start though! What sealant are you using? With mine having set the tubless at 40psi the front dropped to 25 overnight (before going to ride them) but this was mainly due to porosity in the sidewall of my tyre leaking slightly (riding over cannock chase at 9psi has worn some of the carcass away inside so it doesn't seal quite so well). After riding to work and back (3-4 miles) they sealed up perfectly and now drop 3-4psi over the course of a week. Smearing washing up liquid around the tyre will show up slow air leaks, any porosity in the carcass will manifest in a dense white foam. Check for leaks around the valve stem, that caused me hours of grief when I first built them. Did you bounce the tyre after fitting to distribute the sealant fully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 I use Stans sealant, Joes schraeder valves and Superstar rim tape. I lose about 2-3PSI a week out back but I think thats my valve causing me the issue as i can see white shizzle sometimes from it, I'll give it a reseal at some point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 What sealant are you using? With mine having set the tubless at 40psi the front dropped to 25 overnight (before going to ride them) but this was mainly due to porosity in the sidewall of my tyre leaking slightly (riding over cannock chase at 9psi has worn some of the carcass away inside so it doesn't seal quite so well). After riding to work and back (3-4 miles) they sealed up perfectly and now drop 3-4psi over the course of a week. I'm using slime brand sealant, not the put in our inertube gunge, they do a proper runny latex stuff too... seems to be leaking less air each day. really need to go ride though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Pump it up to 40psi take the wheels out and chuck/spin/bounce them off a wall/the floor. Do that for 5-10 minutes per wheel and see if it helps seal the last holes; it simulates riding and the bouncing increases pressure which should help the sealant plug the last holes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 i'll give it a go in the warehouse tomorrow thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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