bing Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 05 lever body with echo sl cnc blade for me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otacon Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Its strange how, ive got 6 or 7 04' Maggys in my shed at the minute and none of them are cracked, leak or anything, probably been bled 50 times, smashed on railings and walls and still work fine. I brought a set of 2005/2006 maggys and the front and back cracked and leaked in a month. So if someone asked me "what would you stick on your bike", 04's all the way. Never let me down. Yeah them 2014 ones look cool. But reliability over cosmetic surely ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Pics of the 04 maggys? I'll buy a few from you haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Apparently racing line have released a full lever now, saw a picture of it on Facebook earlier, all of it cnc ally, even the piston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxx Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Where on Facebook did you see them ? And when Tensile release their new levers ? They were announced a few months ago and they're still not there ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Where on Facebook did you see them ? And when Tensile release their new levers ? They were announced a few months ago and they're still not there ... This weekend apparently. They're taking some to sell at radfest then presumably they'll be in the shops soon after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 I've been avoiding the 2011 version since it's release, but I'm really in need of a new rear brake now. When are these expected to be sold? A price would also be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 I've been avoiding the 2011 version since it's release, but I'm really in need of a new rear brake now. When are these expected to be sold? A price would also be nice Grantham (forum name) has a pair of 2014 levers for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Nope, he only has one now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Nope, he only has one now Hahah, fancy giving us a quick review when you get it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 I've managed to order one. I'll give a review once I rode them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Will do the same when I get it fitted Can't really do a definitive review though, I've used my RB lever for the last 8-9 years so have nothing else to base it against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 These felt lush! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 A thought on these, perhaps someone from tarty might be able to offer advice When bleeding these new levers is it the same process as the MT2 levers? Much the same as bleeding an '04/RB lever? Also do they take the standard hs33 olives and shroud nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Oh damn, haven't thought about bleeding at all. I don't have a bleed nipple And I'm also not sure if these are fine to run with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgnoseat Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Oh damn, haven't thought about bleeding at all. I don't have a bleed nipple And I'm also not sure if these are fine to run with water. Just received the brake. Under the cover at the cilinders there is a small bolt similiar to the 2005 hs33. Not sure if the old bleed screw fits though, since I've lost it. Also not sure if I can run it with water. It came with a good bleed though, so all is good. I just tested 10min outside my house and it was pretty good without bedding the pads in. The lever is a tiny bit flexier, but that might just be because I never used a long blade. There is a little screw on the top that you can use to change the lever's reach, really handy! The tpa feels really fragile when turning it though, I'm afraid to touch it. The lever overall seems a bit less strong, but only time will tell. One minor annoyance is that it uses torque bolts with some strange ass thread. But other than that I'm really satisfied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Got my lever from grantham, but not had a chance to fit it yet, initially it feels really well made and thought out (bear in mind I have a 260 quid magura radial master cylinder on my supermoto and this takes a LOT of design clues from it), the use of torx screws throughout is a bit of an arse but not the end of the world. Can't comment on the stiffness of the lever (although I suspect it will be a fair bit stiffer than the RB which flexes a good amount from the carbon bracket) but will do once it's fitted. The TPA system seems to be well enough made although looks to be a bit of a hassle to change/replace if it fails. The carbotecture is much harder than I expected, I thought it would be much softer but it feels more the cast aluminium, again can't comment on the stiffness/flex. Assuming it is the same process as bleeding the MT2 lever you rotate it till the bleed screw (small torx next to the hose) is highest, take the bleed screw out and put a plungerless syringe in there which acts as a fluid reservoir, you then bleed up with a syringe from the slave in the normal way but cycle the oil in and out to clear more bubbles. Also note that it uses the larger, coarse thread shroud nuts (the carbotecture obviously won't hold the metric threads they used to use) so you need to re-olive the hose if fitting to existing slaves (I'm using circa '96 raceline yellow slaves). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin M S/c Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Tensile's are due in later this month. We have the original prototype on Adams bike and have also tested the first production version. They are great and feel solid. We will be replacing his Magura 2011 levers with production ones as soon as they are available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Tensile's are due in later this month. We have the original prototype on Adams bike and have also tested the first production version. They are great and feel solid. We will be replacing his Magura 2011 levers with production ones as soon as they are available. finally, good to hear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Managed to get out for a couple of hours over the weekend with the new lever so I thought I would put some words down about it both good and bad..... Installation was pretty simple as expected, the half clamp makes things quick and easy, however the top bolt hole on the clamp cracked through, it holds absolutely fine but something to be wary of; it feels as though it is made from a softer material than the main body, IMHO it would be better in aluminium. The clamp plate is asymmetrical and the upper half of the clamp should be done up and the gap closed fully before tightening with the lower screw. The screw to be tightened first is marked with arrows but it isn't clear unless you read the instructions (which I didn't have because magura have zero information about the 2014 lever available) or closely inspect the shape of the bracket when looking end on to the bars. I suspect it cracked through because I didn't realise the clamp was asymmetric at first and tightened it evenly, the arrowed tab is noticeably thinner with less material than the non-arrowed one - I can understand why they have made it so one bolt is fully tightened but why not make them both even sized? Without any proper instructions bleeding the lever is a bit of a faff, it seems to use the same method as the 2011 HS33 and MT02 levers with the EBT port. Effectively you fix your syringe of fluid to the slave as normal and insert a plunger-less syringe body into the EBT port which then acts as a reservoir you can push fluid into and pull it back through to get the most air out (look on the magura website for videos of it if you're still not sure, same basic principle as bleeding avid brakes as well), generally the concept works very well and is easy to do. However with the 2011 HS33/MT02 levers the EBT port is perpendicular to the hose rather than in-line with it on the 2014 lever, this means that you have very much less fluid reservoir available to you because of how the hose arcs out of the shroud nut fitting, indeed it won't actually bleed the brake properly unless you have the level in the syringe above the highest level of the hose. I overcame this problem by rotating the lever on the bars so the reservoir syringe was about 30° from horizontal, this then meant that when flicking the lever to dislodge trapped bubbles it got fluid all over the place completely negating the point of having a clean/easy method of bleeding. I suspect that magura will offer a specific right angle syringe attachment (at exorbitant cost!) in order to bleed them. I initially bled it through with the cutting fluid I have been using for years without an issue (consistency of water but oil based so it lubricates the slave seals and helps prevent sticky pistons), however for some bizarre reason it caused the master piston to get stuck down in the bore. I flushed through and re-bled it with plain water and it worked as normal, I have no idea why the oil based fluid should cause it to stick. It all works now it is bled through with water, I have had to put a couple of drops of finishline wet lube externally on the slave seals to stop them sticking. The EBT port screw is made from plastic, it uses a T25 torx key and rounds off at the slightest hint of wanting to be undone (despite the whole concept of torx fasteners being that they don't cam out and round off under high torque!). I had to jam a T27 into it and just about managed to get it out, another failing of using plastic where metal should be. Be warned, it wasn't overtightened but it needs less than finger tension to tighten it. The lever length is a good 15-20mm longer than the RB lever it replaced which in turn was about the same leverage ratio (I think) of a four finger '05 lever so power is there with abundance. The new TPA design seems to work very well, is completely hidden away and hopefully should prove to be mechanically reliable. The reach adjustment screw gives a good wide range of movement. I found the lever blade itself to be very comfy, it feels very similar to the SD7 I have on the front; wide enough to support the finger but rounded enough to not cause rubbing. With regards to flex (which I know was the largest complaint with the 2011 levers) I can say that yes these levers do have an element of flex in them, when you pull them tight you can see the lever body moving, however this is well after the wheel is locked 100% solid and the frame is flexed to its maximum. The triton is by nature of titanium as a material, quite flexy and this translates into a brake that isn't all that solid feeling, there is a noticeable bite point when the pads hit the rim and from there on the brake is locked and not going to slip. The original carbon plate booster that was sufficient with the RB lever is now too flexible so has been replaced with an old aluminium raceline DH one as a temporary measure; I am going to play around with different booster set ups to see what works best. For me, having the brake a little flexy works well as I occasionally suffer from tendonitis in my hands and too much pulling on my brake finger against a solid brake causes the hand to spasm and cramp up very quickly; as it is set the pads hit the rim with the lever about an inch from the bars (the natural distance for my curled finger) and from then I can hold the wheel locked with a little gentle squeezing. I have had my brake set up in this manner for the last 8 years or so and anyone who has ridden my bike has had positive comments on how well the brake works. Sorry for the rambling post/review, hopefully it gives people an insight into the new HS33 levers. Personally I really like it despite its failings (cheese clamp material/design, difficulty of bleeding due to port orientation, cheese EBT screw), it works well so far, feels great, locks without issue and has held fine (although I believe that is more to do with the combination of pads/rim). As stated, it does flex a little but certainly less than my frame and it helps with my hands - if you like your brake to feel like you're squeezing a block of wood then perhaps this may not be for you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Papasnap Maher Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Im going to keep this short and sweet. Tarty sent me one of these brakes to have a play with. Awesome. Ive used all type of levers ( 04's, 05's, 11's and now this new 14 ) and this is by tar the best.. Running it with Oil, and it feels VERY responsive..If i didnt know any better i would think it was bled with Water. Cant wait to get one on the front. Awesome and lovely feel of the lever. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxx Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 It's funny how feelings can vary from one person to another. I find them middling. I tried them on a friend's bike, I agree they're better than 2011 in terms of feeling (both 4 fingers lever blades) but not as good as 2005. In terms of power I can't pronounce myself. For the moment I'll stick with 05 ones or maybe the new Tensile lever (I saw them for sale, has anybody tried them ?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Papasnap Maher Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 If anything, Power/Solidness/Stiffness in the lever i think is where this brake is full of win! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Will tarty be stocking the new raceline levers jack carthy is using ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Having rode with 04, 05's and currently 2011 HS33's. I'm more than impressed. Comfortable! Dont know what this flex is? but its pretty non existent for me (Onza Genesis 20" Frame & Fork (No Booster)). There also water bled and had 0 issues to date. Bikes been running since February 2013 and its been in my possession since 25th May 2013 still with 0 issues. Even ride with people who have 05's and they love my brakes. meh, each to there own! dude ur brakes compared to barrys and even my v'brake flex like crazy so i can c where people are coming from :wink2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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