forteh

RSQ

79 posts in this topic

Spot on! 

It is already common knowledge but Tarty customer service is number one. :D

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Told you! Where there's a will etc. I had expected it to maybe need 4x or 5x (does that mean the spokes stop being radial in any possible sense?) to work but was sure something would!

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The spokes on my mountainbike are now around 18 years old, have seen a d521, xc717, back to a d521 again and now on my wtb kom, all of the rims so say needed different length spokes and haven't had an issue with switching them round :)

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In fairness, switching from the 521 to 717 to WTB rim only needs spokes that are less than 1mm different, not quite the 10mm from that Spank/Onza rim swap :P

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2 hours ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said:

Where there's a will etc.

Exactly. Here's the method I used. 

Step 1: Try lacing the wheel contrary to whether it should fit or not. 
Step 2: Seek advice from local bike shop where wheel truing = £45
Step 3: Get angry 
Step 4: Call TartyBikes
Step 5: Send to TartyBikes anyway, which should have been step 1. 
Step 6: Success! 

In all seriousness, I had 3 quotes from local bike shops for wheel truing today and all were £40+. :huh:

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I'm not really sure what it is about wheelbuilds that makes shops think they can charge whatever they want for them.  It's just weird.  Seem to think it gives them carte blanche to just make up some random pricing that doesn't really seem based on anything in particular.  If it's time based then either their hourly rate is way out or they must build wheels in slow-mo.

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IMAG2018_BURST002_zpsotah6kke.jpg

Plenty more chrome to go on, chromed alloy front and rear bumper, visor and peterbilt mud flaps an alloy hangers. I've bought a alloy headache rack too which is currently off being polished for extra pimping ;)

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51 minutes ago, Tom Booth said:

 

Plenty more chrome to go on, chromed alloy front and rear bumper, visor and peterbilt mud flaps an alloy hangers. I've bought a alloy headache rack too which is currently off being polished for extra pimping ;)

Random Small QuiteGoodButNotEnoughTrailer

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eBay.... I advertised some shocks in a rush yesterday, was supposed to be a 99p start and run for 3 days - just got confirmation through a few hours later that they've sold for 99p, ergo I must have clicked buy it now.

Guess i've gotta sell the f**kers for that then? 

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8 hours ago, JD™ said:

Random Small QuiteGoodButNotEnoughTrailer

True, but with trailer they are huge. I do have a cool single cab build on its way though....

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38 minutes ago, isitafox said:

I'm sure you can cancel the sale as you made a mistake in listing them.

Cheers Foxy, i'll see what I can do! Guy wants me to send them to a different address which could be a good legit way out... 

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I bought a secondhand shell someone had already painted a weird green colour cos cheap, when it turned up I wasn't prepared for just how bad it was, pretty unsalvageable so I ratted it..

IMAG2022_zpswssrkt7e.jpg

its not the best job but I love the practice.

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Where's the RC thread gone? I've searched but canni find it. Anyway.. since I've finished the King Hauler I thought I'd finally finish my crawler.. Never was happy with the green so went for a new colour..

IMAG2042_zpsprjckuy2.jpg

It's kinda coral Orange, gonna get my vinyl guy to cut some 80/90s style decals for the side. Just ordered a 55t Tekin FXR combo and Alturn ultra torque servo to play with. Gonna run it on a 2s Lipo to start with then see about progressing to a 3s if I feel the need. Ordered a few scale detail parts and a set of fender flairs too. Should be quite a nice little truck when it's finished :)

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IMAG2045_zps5ncz8tbs.jpg

Can haz nightvishun? 

Thats right, I'm sad enough to build a lighting kit, that gas brake lights, indicators and dipped/main beam.

IMAG2055_zpszt9erwq8.jpg

thats right, I built 2 kits...

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That's not sad, it's awesome. I'm sure I've said that before too.

Nothing wrong with toys for grown ups, if I had the time and the knowledge I'd definitely do stuff like this!

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Took the dog a walk this morning in the woods and took the crawler along, found some pretty good spots and had really good fun doing it! I can see why the rc crawler thing has took off. It's kinda like trials, but with no brake slip or chain snapping

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Building a starweaver for my 40k harlequins, the quality of GWs kits these days is incredible; such a nice model as well :)

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Going tubeless, I have tubeless ready rims and tyres and I have the valves. My bike came with all that kit.

All I need to buy is the sealant. There's a million different types, all different prices...

What's the best option to go for?

They seem to range from £7 to £25, obviously I'd rather go to the £7 end of the scale, but not if it's going to be rubbish and unreliable.

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Who do you think you are?! This is a scale model topic dressed as a random small question topic. GTFO.

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32 minutes ago, MadManMike said:

Going tubeless, I have tubeless ready rims and tyres and I have the valves. My bike came with all that kit.

All I need to buy is the sealant. There's a million different types, all different prices...

What's the best option to go for?

They seem to range from £7 to £25, obviously I'd rather go to the £7 end of the scale, but not if it's going to be rubbish and unreliable.

Have you taped your rims up?  I would assume that they should be done from factory but better to make sure.  Try inserting the valves and blowing the tyre up, you will need a track pump at least, I actually pull half of each bead up onto the shelf using a tyre lever, makes blowing the tyre on much easier; if you're not holding air at all then you need to investigate before you fill with sealant.  I did struggle a little getting the wtb valves to seal into my wtb rims but I think I was overtightening them.

I'm using oko magic milk, I built the tubeless up a few weeks before brecon last september and whilst they initally slowly bled a little air over time they now hold air as well as if not better than my tubed wheels. I haven't dismounted the tyres this year but it was all still liquid last time I did (just before christmas I think).  I haven't suffered any flats running 22-24 psi (including all of the brecon ride) and it's been a case of fit and forget.

I got two bottles for about 15 quid from http://okosales.co.uk/ and one bottle is enough to mount 4 wheels if I remember correctly :)

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Cool, thanks mate. I need to do some investigation on whether they're taped up. I too would assume they are, but worth checking.

Do you notice the difference in rolling weight?

Is it a tricky job to get them sealed?

Once I have the sealant I'll watch some tutorials on YouTube I guess.

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If there's a plastic rim tap on there and it is stuck to the rim then it should be good to go.

The bike accelerates quicker, smooths out the small ripples (assuming you're not a retard who runs at silly pressure) and the tyres have a good pop to them when you hit a bigger root.  It also sounds really weird at first because there is alot of hollow echo inside the tyre and impact sounds are magnified.

I have UST compliant rims (WTB kom which use their version of UST but it's the same profile) when I taped my rims I went round once, overlapped the valve hole by a few inches and pressed it all down into the crevices of the rim profile.  Cut a small cross in the tap over the valve hole, push the valve through (I added a smear of sealant around it to help initial seal) and tighten it by hand.  Put the tyre on and see if you can get it to inflate with a track pump (if you have a compressor it should go straight on), if it doesn't blow into the bead well easily then partially lift it in as above (I seat about 60% of the bead around the circumference until it starts getting tight on the tyre lever). Once I've lifted the bead on it inflates like an innertube.

Pump up to 35-40 psi and brush a heavy washing up liquid solution around the bead to try spot any leaks, if it bubbles through then you need to either shake the sealant into the leak till it stops.  I prefer to smear the tyre bead with sealant on my finger before mounting, it lubricates it when blowing on and seals much faster.  Once you've stopped the major bubbles, pump up to 40 psi and go ride; it will likely lose some pressure for the first few rides so keep a mini pump with you.  If you completely loose pressure you shouldn't have any issue pumping back up with a mini pump as long as the bead is still on the rim.

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That all makes sense, thanks for the write-up.

I've ordered some sealant, so I'll give it a go once it shows up :)

I had heard that tubeless feels better, so I'm looking forward to giving it a go. I don't know what pressures I run to be honest, I tend to pump them up so they're pretty stiff, then let air out when I get to the trails, but I do it based on how it feels rather than setting it to a specific PSI. They allow a bit of squishing over the rocky bits, but not too soft.

Do you carry a tube with you, just in case?

 

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I don't carry a tube over cannock chase simply because you're never much more than a couple of miles back to the car should the worst happen. I haven't had a puncture on the mountainbike in over a decade so eventually I'm going to get caught short :D

I did have a spare tube with me for the brecon ride but didn't need it obviously.

For pressure work on your weight in lbs, divide by 7, -1 for front and +2 for rear.

So I'm about 160lbs kitted up which gives me 22psi front and 25psi rear, try it and be pleasantly suprised :)

Edited by forteh

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