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3D Design Request

34 posts in this topic

Depending on the material/printer used, you'll get a pretty graduated finish to it.  While I was at Inspired, they got a 3D printer and rigged up some pretty ghetto but effective acetone vapour/bath type setup.  It was amazing how effective it was at smoothing off pretty rugged looking initial prints - it would go in looking pretty step-y, then as soon as it got into the vapour just go fairly smoothly transitioned with a gloss finish.

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Well it depends how you print it. If you printed it as drawn above you'll get a good finish on the external surface but the detail of the number in the hollow could be either a bit rough if not supported or if you use a support system for the overhung elements (and assuming you don't use dissolvable support material on a second extruder) there will be some awkward cleaning up to do around the details in there. If you printed it on its side you should be able to get a good finish on the the majority but would still need some support built in for the overhanging lower side of the part that will need at least a bit of sanding to clean up...

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Surface finish depends on the material you are printing with. 

On a fine print setting the surface finish is not too bad. It will be easy to clean up as long as the wall is thick enough. 

We use abs at work to make prototype jigs and it's pretty workable with a file and some emery. 

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All good stuff, thanks. I'll be able to print these for nothing but the cost of material so I can have a bit of a play to get the right results. 

I don't know much about 3D Printers, but the one I'll be using is this which doesn't seem too entry level. Hoping that means the quality will be pretty good. 

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15 minutes ago, bike_dummie said:

We use abs at work to make prototype jigs and it's pretty workable with a file and some emery. 

I never managed to get ABS to work on mine. It would always warp even though the printer has a heated buildplate and was just a pain compared to PLA.

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Time wise, it took about 10 mins to knock that up in solidworks, the number is just a text block outline that the font and size can be changed at will. The varying cuts on the number is just a configuration of the boss extrude.

What format do you need for the printer? Is step OK?

I can't comment on the design of the thing or how well it will print but probably worth consulting someone who does and adjusting the model to suit before you commit :)

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20 minutes ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said:

I never managed to get ABS to work on mine. It would always warp even though the printer has a heated buildplate and was just a pain compared to PLA.

Setting the printer up was a bit hit and miss getting everything right. Also I think it all depends on the quality of the printer too. 

Do you use a textured plate? 

Large thin items do still warp sometimes though, just the nature of abs. However these shouldn't warp too much. 

 

18 minutes ago, forteh said:

Time wise, it took about 10 mins to knock that up in solidworks, the number is just a text block outline that the font and size can be changed at will. The varying cuts on the number is just a configuration of the boss extrude.

What format do you need for the printer? Is step OK?

I can't comment on the design of the thing or how well it will print but probably worth consulting someone who does and adjusting the model to suit before you commit :)

The models  above would probably need some supports around the numbers. Just enough to bridge the material no larger. Should be able to snap them off once printed. 

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17 minutes ago, bike_dummie said:

Do you use a textured plate? 

I tried masking tape, ABS slurry, Pritt Stick, various temperatures etc. and just couldn't make it work nicely whereas PLA just worked perfectly from the off so haven't bothered with ABS again.

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I've never used those improvisation, however our machine is designed for abs. 

Pla is defiantly easier to work with that's for sure though! Usually looks nicer too with the colours available. 

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