JD™

TF Makers

296 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

I'm liking this thread!

I'm usually found in the garage in the evenings making stuff, most of which is "car thread" content but will try and remember to post some non-car stuff in here.

A few more recent things I've made to contribute here (there might be car stuff..)

Scale mock-up for a residential strip and fire resistant re-clad project we'll be doing - One of those London residential building over 18m you've been hearing about in the news so often. Area will be 2000m2

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A little bit of TIG work here - Stainless v-band to cast turbine housing. I most likely used the wrong filler (308) but that's what I had.

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Added the little bit of fence infill to the left the other day, but the entire lower section including the sleeper retaining wall with steps, lower artificial grass, decking, back fence was completed by myself last year. Top section of 'turf' will be getting redone hopefully this year when the extension gets done. 

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How it looked before for ref-

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Twin plenum inlet manifold, this was my first real aluminium TIG project undertaken

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That'll do for now - no idea if the images will work as I've linked them to my google photo account - let me know if not and I'll have to upload them to the forum.

 

Andy

Edited by Andy P
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21 minutes ago, Andy P said:

no idea if the images will work as I've linked them to my google photo account - let me know if not and I'll have to upload them to the forum.

All good chief- some awesome work there! On the stainless v-band did you stitch it alternately then go back and fill the gaps?

That's a serious sized decking you've got in the garden there!

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Posted (edited)

21 hours ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said:

All good chief- some awesome work there! On the stainless v-band did you stitch it alternately then go back and fill the gaps?

That's a serious sized decking you've got in the garden there!

@monkeyseemonkeydo I fired 5-6 small tacks round the perimeter and then got a blowtorch on the cast and then it was a single weld round. The cap on the old WG port I used mild filler as the plate was mild also, and weaved over the rod (with preheat as the flange) 

Yeah, it kept growing!!

How it began..

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And then a bit more..

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And then a tiny bit more!

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Edited by Andy P
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Literally can't see a thing

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I've got a bunch of no entry signs too :(

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Posted (edited)

Bahhh!!! I'll see if I can fix it by mobile, if not it'll be tomorrow!

Edit - All fixed now!

Edited by Andy P
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52A707ED-74AA-442D-B1E0-8C7E0C548591.thumb.jpeg.5e5ca0621baa26192e9b73665a1f107e.jpeg

finished the shitty shitty insulation cutting, and someone’s picking up the spares tomorrow. 

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59 minutes ago, manuel said:

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finished the shitty shitty insulation cutting, and someone’s picking up the spares tomorrow. 

My favourite bit is when a single spec of dust goes in your throat and your whole body dries out. It's nasty but amazing stuff! Expensive though.

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Well, insulation works - it’s still warm in the shed (in the 20’s), but now I need to come up with a good plan to reduce solar gain :lol:... 

I’m  thinking heat reflective blinds (possibly automated to temperature for a laugh). Ac has definitely climbed back onto the must have list too.

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I'm pre empting building a big man shed at the top of the new houses garden so been trialling making the roof trying to get my head around measurements and bird mouths cuts etc. Finally got it the other day. Got to try out my new tool imported from the land of the free. 

 

 

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I hate doing them, especially when you've got to do two or three in the same rafter. 

Always mess at least one up every time, doesn't help doing it on a 100yr old farm roof built from allsorts though! :lol:

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10 hours ago, isitafox said:

I hate doing them, especially when you've got to do two or three in the same rafter. 

Always mess at least one up every time, doesn't help doing it on a 100yr old farm roof built from allsorts though! :lol:

Sounds like a pita! 

What I struggled with was determining where the birds mouth should be. When doing the basic pythag and working out the hypotenuse of the triangle, then transitioning that measurement to the location on the actual birds mouth. It's hard to explain without going into loads of detail. Got it in the end though 

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17 minutes ago, dann2707 said:

What I struggled with was determining where the birds mouth should be. When doing the basic pythag and working out the hypotenuse of the triangle, then transitioning that measurement to the location on the actual birds mouth. It's hard to explain without going into loads of detail. Got it in the end though 

Sounds like something CAD would really help with. A couple of angles and a few dimensions would, I imagine, give you the answer you need for any conditions.

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I've done bits and bobs on roofs in my time but this was the first substantial one I've ever done. It went a lot smoother than I thought it would.

If you're putting measurements into cad i think you'll struggle. Every piece of wood is different and nothing is straight. You've just got to do the best you can.

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I did everything myself with help from my dad and his mate passing things and holding things etc. Made a few mistakes and got a few things wrong but it works. It's water proof and hasn't blew off in the winds we've had recently so I'm happy with that.

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15 minutes ago, Al_Fel said:

If you're putting measurements into cad i think you'll struggle. Every piece of wood is different and nothing is straight. You've just got to do the best you can.

Ah fair enough. I was just looking at the practise example Dann showed and reckoned CAD would make that easy but looking at your pics I can see it wouldn't be that easy!

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7 minutes ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said:

Ah fair enough. I was just looking at the practise example Dann showed and reckoned CAD would make that easy but looking at your pics I can see it wouldn't be that easy!

Oh yeah of course. To get the theory of it cad might help. In the real world you need to make adjustments and sacrifice.

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10 hours ago, Al_Fel said:

You've just got to do the best you can.

This is what I’ve tried to learn.

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On 12/03/2021 at 6:16 PM, manuel said:

Someone’s picking up the spares tomorrow. 

Do you know if this is a fairly common 'thing'? I've been tasked with building a wood fired hot tub out of an IBC, so will need some insulation :lol:

 

Frame is done and ready for a coat of boiled linseed oil :D

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I love the colours and imperfections - they could all be buffed out, but they all tell a story. The bosses / mounts are brazed on with silver. Ended up just under 2kg too. Can't wait to ride it!

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Posted (edited)

So nice

Curious about the rear mount though. Will being mounted like that not introduce marginally more flex than if it was mounted... I don't know the word... "Circumferencially"?
It looks like it will be pushing downwards on the end of a lever, rather than pushing downwards directly into a post.

Looks an awful lot nicer! And if there is flex, I'm willing to accept the quantity might be academic rather than a real issue.

My 20" frames with no seats or brake mounts were 2.4kg and 2.1kg.
<2kg... Butted tubing is awesome! :lol:

 

Edit: Are you doing any heat treating?

Edited by aener

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Thanks!
 

Have to admit the rear mount didn't really turn out as planned / was a slight afterthought. During the build I realised my skills with really tight joins were lacking, so the original idea I had / saw wasn't going to fly.

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I also thought about using a front Hope RX4 caliper on the rear (which would have gone nicely flat along the chainstay) but bitched out of spending the cash :lol:

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Due to where the caliper ends up, and most of the forces being 'forwards' (this will only see very mild amounts of trials), I figure the 'stand-off' is mostly in tension and the caliper itself becomes a stressed member / brace. Worst case, if it is all noodle-y, I can stick a proper brace in there.

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Haha, yeah butted tubing is a lot lighter! The last frame I did of similar design was nearly 3kg!

Heat treating - nah. In theory it would increase the strength of the frame by a significant chunk, but finding someone to do it will be tricky and from the joint testing it's already going to be a lot stronger than the last frame which has done ~ a year (albeit with 4 re-welds, ha).

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It looks a lot more forces-reasonable with the caliper in place. Pulling away from the tube instead of flexing it downwards. Without it, I'd mis-imagined where it would all sit.

It's a shame heat-treatment is so inaccessible, but I guess it's forunate that steel isn't weak un-treated. Any thoughts on whether cracks at the edges of the fillets are any more or less likely than when welded and un-heattreated because it didn't get as hot so didn't soften as much or whatever?
Your testing above makes it fairly arbitrary if there is any, but theoretically?

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6 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:

Do you know if this is a fairly common 'thing'? I've been tasked with building a wood fired hot tub out of an IBC, so will need some insulation :lol:

 
they came with bundles of dosh :lol:

however I will say that I have an absolute shit tonne of off cuts. And I’m probably gonna post them up as free to collect somewhere - I’m guessing that happens a lot. Also skips outside houses having loft conversions are usually full of it and they are usually decent thickness.

 

the frame looks amazing - really impressive! 


 

 

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Update to the shed...

put a spare temperature sensor in there to log the temperature. It reached 41degC by 2pm yesterday and probably would have gone higher, but I opened the doors to do some cladding work and it cooled down very quickly. Today it’s complete cloud cover and it’s just over 16degC.

Worrying... 

think I may need more than internal solutions, maybe some kind of wind out awning? Or maybe even external shutters (I don’t really want to do either but it needs to be useable).

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Maybe just leave it as it is and market it for heat-treatment instead of making? :lol:
Or start a sauna business.

Is your glass wall south-facing?

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