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House/shed/garage/...building looks absolutely mega Rowan :D
I did mine very much accepting that it'd never be perfect and didn't need to be because it was going to get smashed about. Yours just looks like a room in a house that happens to be placed outside of it.

Floor came up stupendous!

Do you happen to know what species it is? It's a lot deeper than most I've seen. Love it!

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I really don’t know about the floor l I’m thinking maybe teak? Doesn’t seem dark enough for mahogany etc and it’s too dark for oak (I think) but the grain looks similar. It seems pretty tough and the bona mega was really easy to do and gave a nice finish. 
 

I think I went a bit overboard on the general finish, but to be honest it wasn’t expensive really - just time consuming. Floor, walls and skirting cost less than 400 total I think. 

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shed update.

AC in

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started building a long needed bike box (I know the timbers aren't working the right way round here, but Im using up leftovers and space was tight) 

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leftover shed roofing...

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Ground level is gonna come up with gravel and some flags in the bin bit so its easier to get out. Oh and doors :lol:

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Looking good! Plenty of meat on that timber to use it that way round.

Those discs on that kids bike look insane haha

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56 minutes ago, Al_Fel said:

Those discs on that kids bike look insane haha

They have KO’d a couple of Griffs friends :lol: 

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Bit sad, but I made a frame for an old db poster from the raleigh road team launch we went to. I’ve had it and kept it with the intention of putting it up for over a decade!  It’s a huuge bit of toughened glass and weighs a ton so I hope it stays on the wall! 
 

Needs the corners filling and painting as my mitre is a bit out it seems, and also a bit of finishing off. 
 

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next job is to hang my signed MA mbuk poster somewhere near the desk. 

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Could replace the glass with a sheet of polycarb for child safety should it fall off the wall?

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On 24/03/2021 at 8:25 AM, Adam@TartyBikes said:

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Bump! @Adam@TartyBikes what gearing are you using and how are you finding it? I've got a strange urge to turn my Whyte FS into a singlespeed for shits and giggles (it's 650B) but can't decide whether a light enough gear for hills will make it utterly horrible for literally everything else! Annoyingly the hub is XD and there are apparently precisely zero XD singlespeed speed kits (which come with a 16T) available in the UK until Gusset restock in a month...

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Welcome to the world of even more fun and less maintenance @monkeyseemonkeydo B)

I started on 32:20 but now on 32:18. Most people say 32:16 is a good place to be, but not sure if that is bravado! This is with 26" wheels. General rule is to add 1 tooth to the rear for 650b, 2 teeth for 29er.

Its pretty hilly round here, every ride is more than 1000ft of climbing per 10 miles to give you an idea, but everything is cleanable if you do your best BMX race start impression on the very steep stuff ;)

You need a bit of time to retrain your brain mostly - at first it feels really weird grinding away at super low cadences, but eventually you learn that you can grunt it out. Trials helps a lot I think, as you have good low speed balance while standing up and good core strength to keep the bike pointing where you want it to. 

Momentum is everything and pedal strikes are killer.

Higher speeds - I find it absolutely fine 99% of the time and keep up with geared mates with no issue. You learn to carry momentum better on the flatter / slightly downhill stuff, and you'll find yourself sprinting at short sharp climbs rather than going into autopilot and shifting up the cassette.

The only time I find it a bit lacking in speed is really fast, smooth, slightly downhill sections - you simply can't spin your legs fast enough to get any drive. A small trade-off IMO.

I love it so much I'm building another (with big dirty wheels this time)!

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Awesome cheers Ads! That looks wicked- lovely welds too! I think I'll give it a go (when Gusset get their delivery next month!) and see how it goes.

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@Adam@TartyBikes - whilst we're on the topic, what do you do for BB and headtubes? I've been toying with the idea of building a commuter and I hag to get my previous ones from America. 

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Ceeway if you're getting a full tubeset - loads of choice, good service! https://www.framebuilding.com/

Bear Frame Supplies just for head tubes and BB shells: https://bearframesupplies.co.uk/

I've got a couple of spare (bought for practice welding but didn't use them in the end) ~600mm long, 0.8mm wall, 28.6mm OD 4130 tubes if any use - only cost me about £8 so happy to move them on at that price.

PS: http://www.bikecad.ca

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awesome. Thanks. I'll get back to you as/when/if I go through with it. Not even got access to a welder at present, might be a while off :lol:

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May end up with something in here in the end! Have decided that I don't really like the Gusset design as it puts the torque from the rider through the M32 x 1.0 thread that the XD 'lockring' sits on- something it's really not designed to do and there's only about 6mm of thread there (I've stripped  trials sprockets before and I sure as buggery don't want to do that to a Chris King driveshell).

Soooo... my plan is to make my own version of the Problem Solvers Zinger setup. I'm going to get a little HG sprocket carrier waterjet cut at work along with a few spacers to fiddle with the chainline and I've bought a dead XD cassette on eBay that I'm going to rip apart to pull out the 'lockring' thing from inside it. In theory the lockring will keep the carrier in place (and the carrier and HG spline then carries the torque) with an 18T Gusset sprocket bolted to it to give me a single speed setup. In combination with a dual wheel Acor tensioner I think we should be good.

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I was surprised that the XD standard still used the HG spline for the end drive part but I guess if it ain't broke... Just waiting for the parts to arrive now to trial fit some 3D printed mockups of the carrier and spacers as I think the lockring will need to be modified slightly (or possibly one of the spacers) to work right but we'll see.

 

 

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Nice work - should do the job perfectly! I have a few 6 Bolt 44mm PCD sprockets kicking about if you want them. Probably got 20T and 18T at least.

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Thanks @Adam@TartyBikes but I've already ordered an 18T to get me started (only £11 so not going to break the bank!). Hopefully that will get me started!

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New frame, ready for paint. Reynolds 853 front end, 631 head tube, Columbus stays, home made dropouts. Came out at 1.98kg, which is very light for a modern steel 29er.

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I like the disc mount idea...using the caliper itself as a brace?

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Looks proper shit that does :D

edit: had you considered slicing the rear corners off the dropouts to shave some more weight?

Edited by forteh

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1 hour ago, Ali C said:

I like the disc mount idea...using the caliper itself as a brace?

Yeah man. Did the same sort of thing on a previous frame and it's worked out well. In some cars they do similar things - such as use the engine block itself as a 'stressed member' (eg. effectively part of the chassis) - so I figured if the caliper has to be there anyway it might as well do two jobs...

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1 hour ago, forteh said:

Looks proper shit that does :D

edit: had you considered slicing the rear corners off the dropouts to shave some more weight?

Thanks :lol:

I had actually. Not sure how I'd do it neatly... perhaps a 1mm slitting disc in the grinder, then tidy by hand. One to ponder this evening!

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I would have done it before gluing them together :D

But yeah, in situ, mark a rough cutting line and scribe a finished line, 1mm slitting disk to the rough and use a flap wheel to take it back to the scribed.  Shouldn't be too hard to do and eye them up enough to not notice.

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Make a paper template, use your tensioner screws  and the inside face of the dropout as your datum and then you can use the same template on both sides and it will be even :)

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Good call! May even get away with just wrapping a layer of tape around and using that as a cut line... we'll see tomorrow. Always fancied it on the old frame but never got round to it.

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2 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:

Always fancied it on the old frame but never got round to it.

Practice on the old frame ;)

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Here we go! 3D printed test run. I bought a knackered XD cassette on eBay and whipped the lockring out of it (a bit more dremelling required than I anticipated but got there in the end). One 5mm thick HG spline spacer that the lockring clamps on plus three 5mm spacers with relevant sized bores gives the correct chainline and we're looking good. Will get the bits waterjet cut at the start of this week hopefully and get it together properly soon :).

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