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On 16/03/2021 at 7:08 PM, manuel said:

 
they came with bundles of dosh :lol:

however I will say that I have an absolute shit tonne of off cuts. And I’m probably gonna post them up as free to collect somewhere - I’m guessing that happens a lot. Also skips outside houses having loft conversions are usually full of it and they are usually decent thickness.

 

the frame looks amazing - really impressive! 

 

Ha. That explains it! Yeah it was the offcuts I'm interested in... skips it is then. Thanks dude. And thanks about the frame!

Got it built up:

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Light!

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On 16/03/2021 at 5:15 PM, aener said:

It looks a lot more forces-reasonable with the caliper in place. Pulling away from the tube instead of flexing it downwards. Without it, I'd mis-imagined where it would all sit.

It's a shame heat-treatment is so inaccessible, but I guess it's forunate that steel isn't weak un-treated. Any thoughts on whether cracks at the edges of the fillets are any more or less likely than when welded and un-heattreated because it didn't get as hot so didn't soften as much or whatever?
Your testing above makes it fairly arbitrary if there is any, but theoretically?

All this chat of the top mount, and it was the bottom one that was the issue :lol:

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About 10 mins of playing about on the car park and a few small rocks / low walls, and I found the above.... arse. Super disappointed. I think the butting must have ended close to the dropout, so the tube there was 0.6-0.7mm thick...

But, I decided there were positives, in that I had found it early so would be able to fix it rather than have to fit a new chainstay.

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In terms of heat treatment / heat affected zone (HAZ), in theory this is reduced as you need to put less heat into the tube for the TIG braze. However, my testing showed there still is a HAZ and that it's not really much (if at all) different to normal TIG welding.

One benefit I can imagine though is that the ductility of the silicon bronze filler material is huge - something like 65% elongation to break. Steel is around 20%. So, in theory the fillets are 'stretchier' and could load up the tubing less. In turn this could make the frame feel 'springier' and more compliant.

This certainly ties in with how the bike rides - it is so nice! It just floats over those awful eyeball-shaking vibration-inducing micro bumps. There's a descent round here I know well which is pretty smooth but then the last few hundred metres turns into fist-sized rocks. You hit the section at about 20mph and previously it was a real effort to maintain speed and just hang on to the bike - pretty scary to be honest. But last night it kind of floated over. Hard to explain. I guess this is what the 'steel is real' brigade have been on about for years.

Here's a badly out-of-focus photo from a quick blast last night. The bike absolutely flies, both up and down :D

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Happy bunny!

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Shame about the crack, but a nice and simple modification to just pop it on a gusset at least!
Full-build looks ridiculously nice. If ever I were to do distance-riding again... :wub:

That info about the ductility is nuts! I've never really felt a difference between steel and alloy frames other than the harshness of engagement resonances, but I guess that could be symptomnatic of tiny little frames.
The only time I've felt something similar to the differences people always used to talk about steel feeling like is when I first switched from alloy pedals to the Electrons. If your line is the "signal", it feels like it quietens/smooths out the tactile "noise".

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Thanks dudes! Yeah I'm so chuffed with it Luke, can't wait to get out again!

Dave - thanks. The dropouts are something I wanted to work really hard on, so many modern frames are hugely bulky and ugly in this area, so I figured there had to be a neater way... so far, it works perfectly. Wheel doesn't move when riding, have had it in and out again and it went back in exactly the same place, no need to adjust the brake and chain tension spot on. Winning :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Man maths answer... About £200. I made the BB shell and dropouts on the lathe / milling machine from tube / solid bar, bought the rest of the tubing. Its really nice quality stuff, about the sort of 'level' a custom builder would use in a ~£1000 frame.

Real answer: you need to add consumables (gas, the expensive filler rod - for both the actual frame and all the test joints I did - silver solder for the braze ons), any tools I bought specifically for the project (at least a set of quality holesaws). There's also the tooling used (welder et al, milling machine, lathe) which technically I already had, but would never have got a decent result without them.

Lets just say I used to think custom frames were too expensive before I made a couple!

 

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  • 1 month later...

Been working on the shed a bit this week. Progress is slow but I’ve nearly got the cables in and the boarding out is somewhat done.

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got the lights working too. I can now shout at the google lady to control them or have them trigger off motion or door sensors. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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fully clad and finished most of a coat of treatment (2 to go :ermm:), fitted the isolator for the ac, and finished the main boarding ready for the electrician. Might do the floor next as a break and to get rid of some of the big piles of parquet blocks.

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Looking pro Rowan!

 

I recently built an off grid hot tub from an old IBC, a dead propane cylinder, a bit of copper tubing, and various recycled insulation type stuff.

First attempt did not go to plan, was way too cold at starting temp and I use crap wood. Even so, the temp went up 4 degrees an hour, but we never actually got in past our thighs :lol:

Will try again in the next week or so now its a bit warmer, and the heater has had a small tweak...

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39 minutes ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:

Looking pro Rowan!

 

I recently built an off grid hot tub from an old IBC, a dead propane cylinder, a bit of copper tubing, and various recycled insulation type stuff.

First attempt did not go to plan, was way too cold at starting temp and I use crap wood. Even so, the temp went up 4 degrees an hour, but we never actually got in past our thighs :lol:

Will try again in the next week or so now its a bit warmer, and the heater has had a small tweak...

Mate of mine did exactly the same but he heated it with a log burner made from a washing machine drum, works an absolute treat too! 

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Our doe rabbit Ella unfortunately contracted an illness that means she's a bit wobbly - thankfully on the road to a full recovery but she'll always be a bit lop sided now (the one under the tunnel) so aiming for the small opening in the hutch from ground level up a narrow ramp is a bit like going for the bullseye after several pints. A trip to the timber yard and I've made a 'mezzanine' with a wide access ramp and walls to stop unwanted 'rigging' (see Yorkshire dictionary...) and to make it easier for her to get in and out of the hutch. I'm pleased with it, normally the stuff I make is bombproof but seriously flawed cosmetically but this has turned out alright. Should've bought a jigsaw years ago.

Yea she's just a rabbit but it's nice to see her being able to enjoy being outside again and running in and out of the hutch like she's used to.

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Classic tradesmen…. 
my usual electrician didn’t do this job it was one of his guys though…

Measure twice…

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I guess partly my fault as I thought the armoured cable could go rear entry, but still they cut that hole so close to the socket it wouldn’t have stayed in the wall.

luckily that’s where they left it for the day so I changed the board. It would have been a complete pig to repair after they finished. It took 10 minutes…

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Hot tub works :D

Took 3.5 hours to heat, then we spent 3 hours in it last night. Eyes, nose and skin don't get battered like normal which is a bonus. The water coming out of the heater coil was boiling (!) so that should kill any nasties. It even maintained 36 degrees for over an hour after we'd stopped feeding the fire!

Next upgrade: a better, more insulated lid, in two halves so we can keep it partly covered for winter use.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question - floor finishes - I was going to use wax again but figured a varnish might be harder wearing (it’s outside after all and hopefully a workshop) anyone have any experience of the industrial type 2-part ones, and whether or not it’s worth doing, or whether something like the bona mega varnish might be good enough? 

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