monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 As an alternative to buying a new bike (not usually an issue for me but we're trying to afford a house extension at the moment so I'm trying to be restrained!) I've been messing around with my 2015 Whyte T130 Works SCR. I was originally looking at whacking a 29" wheel on the front to play 'mullet bike' while slackening the head angle but that was going to cost a bomb (£500+ on forks, £50+ on rim plus spokes, £30 on a tyre) so ended up over-forking the stock 130mm Pikes to 150mm. That's brought the head angle from 67.5 to 66.8 or so but has the added effect of raising the BB height so yesterday I made some offset brass bushings that in theory should drop the head angle down to around 65.8 and drop the BB height back down to near stock. Anyone else messed around with things with good or bad results?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 I've done this to my intense 5.5. Stock HA is 70° with 130mm forks, stuck some 160 xfusion vengeance (which are long axle to crown anyways) and offset bushings in the rear shock and the HA is now down to 65° or there abouts. The BB is still monstrously high becase of the fork increase and the fame is still silly short (330mm reach I think ) but I don't get any pedal strikes, I've never felt unstable on it and quite happily plough through the moderate stuff I've played on. It's tiny, short and high and I dare say that compared to a modern sled is very unstable and flighty but I'm used to it and we get along fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Sounds good! Slightly annoyingly (at least annoyingly tempting) our cycle to work scheme has just increased the voucher limit to £2500! The Whyte's got Chris King hubs though (and the bike's non-boost so anything new won't be compatible) so I'm being restrained for now! I've also just ordered a second hand oval chain ring to give that a try too as I've never used one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 Almost certain that king will do boost compatible end caps and disk spacer rings, hope definitely do. I'm still on 26", 110x20 front, 135x9 qr rear, screw new standards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 14 hours ago, forteh said: Almost certain that king will do boost compatible end caps and disk spacer rings, hope definitely do. Apparently not "Sorry to say that short of buying new hubshells and axles, our ISO hubs aren't convertible to Boost. The hubshells for boost hubs are physically bigger and so shimming your hubs won't place your rotor into the correct position." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 That's a shame, I guess they're not doing it because it doesn't align with their concept of correct engineering which is a fair shout. I'll give you a tenner for the king hubs? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Haha, nah you're ok!! Having said that I'm still not convinced that adding a 3mm washer on each side of the hub and a 3mm shim between the rotor and the hub wouldn't fix the boost/non boost thing? For calipers to work without being boost specific the rotor must sit at the same position relative to the frame and on a boost bike that's just 3mm further from the centreline than a non boost hub surely? I queried that with CK as well and his response was negative but I'm not sure he quite got what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 Hope make boost end caps and rotor spacers for their hubs, it's all a farce anyways, I've used 110mm wide front axle for almost a decade now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) I'm on a boost frame (148) with 142 Chris King rear hub. You can buy spacer kits off ebay for buttons. It spaces either side of the hub and the disc rotor. The chain line is really bad in the lighter gears but F it. Makes it kinda fiddly when puting the rear wheel in/out for any reason... I liken it to fitting an IS calliper to an IS frame. Boost Spacer Kit Edited November 25, 2019 by Ross McArthur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 Yeah, stuck longer forks and shock on my Four, raising the BB and slackening the head angle a bit. Much preferred it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted November 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 5 hours ago, Ross McArthur said: I'm on a boost frame (148) with 142 Chris King rear hub. You can buy spacer kits off ebay for buttons. It spaces either side of the hub and the disc rotor. The chain line is really bad in the lighter gears but F it. Makes it kinda fiddly when puting the rear wheel in/out for any reason... I liken it to fitting an IS calliper to an IS frame. Boost Spacer Kit I thought it must be possible! Dude doesn't know what he's talking about! Is that running a non boost chainring? Not quite sure where those come into play and whether you could offset some of the chainline issues by running the 'wrong' chainring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 26 minutes ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said: I thought it must be possible! Dude doesn't know what he's talking about! Is that running a non boost chainring? Not quite sure where those come into play and whether you could offset some of the chainline issues by running the 'wrong' chainring? I guess he'll only be giving the corporate to the bone response. "We don't make it so you cant do it". That's a good question on the chain ring. I know there's a 3mm and a 6mm offset SRAM direct fit chain rings but I run a normal 4 bolt straight as a die Renthal ring on a GXP spider. I played about with BB spacers to try and get it as close to the chain stay as possible. When my bikes in the work stand and I'm turning the pedals with my hand, as you go towards first gear, you can feel the resistance building with the chain with it being at such an angle. Despite all that, the derailleur handles it, I run a narrow wide chain ring and never had any major issues with my set up. Its just not as ideal as id like it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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