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Shimano Zee - Sintered vs EBC Red


giantwhore

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Who has experience of running the EBC red pads in a Shimano zee brake?

Mine are running sintered at the moment and i've barely ridden them (not enough to bed them in), but if the EBC's are as good as people say, i'll consider investing sooner rather than later

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I have run EBC reds and Trialtech, found the Trialtech grabbier which was sometimes not a benefit. The ebc reds offered up plenty of power and with a little less grab than the Trialtech worked better for manuals etc.

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Just went out for a half hour with them. Massive difference especially on the front. Didn't feel doing my usual last minute braking at the bottom of the gaps down between the cliffs was a good idea. And usually everybody turns to see what the massive honking noise was, but these were silent. Did initially notice a big improvement on the rear, but maybe I just adjusted to it far easier, or the existing stock front brakes (+1yr old, ~50 rides, ~36hrs)  were contaminated or something - they looked good as new too.

Edited by marg26
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On 22/06/2020 at 10:43 PM, John Shrewsbury said:

I run the Zee brakes and EBC reds. Have done for the last 4 years, no complaints and run sharp as hell. Definitely recommend.

Do you run into issues with the lever blades digging into your middle finger when you pull hard?

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Yeah I was getting that issue with the blade rubbing against my finger when on the rear wheel, brake felt a bit soft & squidgy not what I expected. Turns out I had been far too conservative adjusting the reach when I initially set them up. Problem solved and fingers didn't have any problems reaching either.

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44 minutes ago, marg26 said:

Yeah I was getting that issue with the blade rubbing against my finger when on the rear wheel, brake felt a bit soft & squidgy not what I expected. Turns out I had been far too conservative adjusting the reach when I initially set them up. Problem solved and fingers didn't have any problems reaching either.

Yea exactly the same. A really squidgy lever. I could probably pull it right to the bar even though the reach is almost as far as it can go

Edited by giantwhore
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It's strange....there's no real bite point and i feel like i have to pull the lever initially to get the brake to start  but the pull a lot to get the lever to then reach what feels like a stopping point in the lever travel. Seems to take an unreasonable amount of pull compared to the SRAM X0's i've had before. Maybe a bleed is a good idea. Might now i'm thinking about just selling them and getting MT5's

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On 6/25/2020 at 9:49 PM, giantwhore said:

Do you run into issues with the lever blades digging into your middle finger when you pull hard?

I did when I trying to bunnyhop high stuff. But I actually adjusted mine in a little further on the bar so I have more grip length. But Ali C mentioned he puts a bit of sugru mold on the inner side of the levers, possibly worth a try. https://sugru.com/buy/family-safe-skin-friendly-formula-classic-colours-8-pack?gclid=Cj0KCQjwudb3BRC9ARIsAEa-vUuGkoGumCYmrdOdPjPAIpfKouwOIG1ECAHRZ3v_9sIypHonPSLovHYaAsYbEALw_wcB

Also if you want the lever blades in further and not adjust them out too far you could bring them back in to a comfortable position. The take the wheels out or the calipers off and pump the pistons in a little ( not too much ) then force them back on in between the rotor and you should get a strong lever bite so you don’t have to have the levers out far. You will still be able to adjust the brake, but pump it then hold and tighten the caliper down. I do it every so often because I wasn’t getting a good enough bleed, specially on the rear. Good little tip to try.

 

Edited by John Shrewsbury
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I was watching Sam Pilgrim and noticed his levers were so far in there was probably only a fingers width overlap between blade and the grip. Might have to experiment with that. Also was on the verge of ordering sugru before realizing I'd adjusted the reach badly.

 

Edited by marg26
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So random question regarding the pads, when you swap the pads on an existing rotor, do you need to do anything to the rotor to make it work?

Would the rotor still work as well if the news bedded in on a rotor with the material from the old pads?

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5 hours ago, Sam Song said:

So random question regarding the pads, when you swap the pads on an existing rotor, do you need to do anything to the rotor to make it work?

Would the rotor still work as well if the news bedded in on a rotor with the material from the old pads?

Just splash some water on the rotor if you have EBC reds. Then give it some time and they will bedd in. 

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