freetrials661 Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) Hello, I've got a relatively new arcade fuse, running stock trialtech m6 rear axle and arcade chain tugs. While admittedly I'm not the smoothest rider, I've been having a problem where on some moves which place a lot of force on the rear wheel (drop gaps, bunnyhops with speed, etc) the wheel will slip in the dropouts - not like crazy, but enough to cause the wheel to rub the chainstay. I'm tightening the axle bolts very tight, I don't have exact torque numbers but any tighter and I'm worried about thread stripping. I'm wondering if anybody else has had this problem with the arcades, and what, if anything, you were able to do to fix the problem. I'm thinking about trying some new axle nuts with a bigger head/ more surface area. The through axles on the fourplay are starting to look like a pretty slick idea... Thanks for the help! Brad Edited June 26, 2020 by freetrials661 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbugg Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Only happened to me when I used a hub with m6 bolts never with my hope hub it might be worth seeing if theres any paint in the serrated washers on the inside of the dropouts that could help also might be counter intuitive but have you tried only using a tug on the drive side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 If by 10mm you mean the bolts rather than the axle outer diameter, pretty much don't worry about stripping them. I do them up about as tight as I'm physically able to M10 is VERY strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freetrials661 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Thank you both for the replies! Aener, I was mistaken with my sizes - it is an m6 rear hub not a 10mm. Sandbugg, I usually tighten the drive side tug first when tensioning the chain but find that the wheel doesn't stay straight that way. I checked the serrated washers and they didn't not have paint on them. It sounds like my best bet might be to switch to a hope hub with the bigger axle bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 On 6/26/2020 at 2:38 PM, freetrials661 said: Sandbugg, I usually tighten the drive side tug first when tensioning the chain but find that the wheel doesn't stay straight that way. I checked the serrated washers and they didn't not have paint on them. I tend to tighten the disc side first as i find the chain and tensioner will keep the drive side in place and stops anything from shifting about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swoofty Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 You could also try scoring the arcade chain tugs to give a little extra bite against the frame. Those tugs are mighty smooth. Or you could ditch the tugs, slam the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts and use a serrated washer and put in a sprung tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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