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Getting A Star Nut Out


Tomm
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You say it's WIDE at the bottom, so just twat it down and down until it drops out the bottom.

however when i opened this thread i thought the problem might be that the weld on the bottom of the steerer didn't leave a big enough hole to hit the startnut through. If so, just get something long and thin, put it through the bottom of the steerer, rest the forks upside down on something softish (i recommend a car mat ontop of concrete) then just twat it down until it come to the top of the steerer, you should then be able to pry it out with pliers ot something. :P

OR

if you really can't get it out, just hit it down a bit, then just put your new starnut over it, it'll be tricky but i'm sure the brake cable will fit though the center of the old one. :P

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You say it's WIDE at the bottom, so just twat it down and down until it drops out the bottom.

What I meant was that the wall of the tube was wide, so the hole was actually very narrow. Sorry :">

Get a BMX.

lol.

Got one thanks, but ShitBMX is way more fun :)

Actually, the answer was kinda there all along. Total bodge job, but it works :P

As Rich said, a Shimano brake outer will fit through the hole in a star nut. Only just mind (If the cable was 0.1mm wider, it wouldn't fit) - They're made to go together :P Anyway, I was contemplating this and was trying to work out how I would tension my headset, and then I remembered that you don't really need the star nut/top cap once you've tightened the stem clamp up. This is the result:

gallery_40_1055_88385.jpg

gallery_40_1055_9350.jpg

Quite happy with that for half an hour's work. It feels quite nice surprisingly. I was expecting the extra bent cable to make the front brake feel really bad, but it's only slightly stiffer than before. The only problem is that if I need to tighten the headset/change stem etc I now have to take the cable all the way out again, which is a bit annoying :P

Now I just gotta get out and learn those tailwhips :P

P.S. Note how far the steerer comes up the stem :P

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You should have cut the cable longer fr barspins. :P  :P"

Which one, the rear? There's enough slack to spin it both ways. Unless of course I spin it and then crash making the bars spin more, in which case I could easily rip the hosing out :P

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He's right, you know.

The Linear Slic cable would be perfect for your front brake, Mr. Tomm. It should fit through the star nut hole too, but it'll work way better. With my Clarks/Shimano outer/inner combo, with my back brake on my BMX, I could get one full barspin and it started binding. Any more and it was shite. With the Linear Slic the same length, I could do a triple if I wanted to/could, with no binding. Should be wubbly for the front...

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i tried the front brake down the steerer tube twice with shimano cable and i thought they felt horrid!

Seriously it feels fine. Maybe because it's a disk, the cable doesn't have to loop around so much.

You can drill the hole in the star nut bigger, so you can use any cable/outer you want.

But then I wouldn't be able to tighten the headset... Ever!

tom that steerer is shorter than mine! you need to take some stacks off until you get a new stem. now you have got a top cap you have nothing to stop it sliding off the top. think about it

Yeah, I should do something about it. But low bars suck. And it's still clamped on with the stem bolts, the stem isn't gonna fly off any time soon. I hope.

And Mark you don't get any binding with a rear magura, so that's fine. However, if I do need a new front brake cable, I will certainly consider the Linear Slicks

Dahnhillaaaa, I'm pretty sure Nokons won't fit through a star nut.

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And Mark you don't get any binding with a rear magura, so that's fine.  However, if I do need a new front brake cable, I will certainly consider the Linear Slicks

You do with a front brake when you run the cable through the fork, which is what I was refering to. I just meant you can run a f**kin' tight bend without any of the binding you seemed to think you were getting with your current setup.

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