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Better Braking


ogre
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I have a t-bird and i can't get the brakes to work well at all they hardly ever lock, i've done a grind and i even throw a bit of tar on for good measure but i still move the wheel round loads when i'm riding i fell off the other day doing pedal hops, i don't think i need a bleed yet any ideas?

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How are your brakes set up? are they set up 2mm away from the rim, set squarely? No toe in on the pads?

As for the bleed pull you lever and look at your pads(its easyer if you have your wheel off) if you pull the lever say 10-15mm and the pads dont move then you need a bleed.

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I'm running the red magura pads that came with the brake (cool stops?) i haven't got a booster (yet) i ordered an onza carbon fibre one (in november) and the shop still havent got one, anyone want to recomend one?

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get yourself some koxx bloxx or plaz pads whack them on a grind wit a good booster and you will never want anything else

oggy

thats all true but koolstops with tar should still be locking pretty solid in the dry.

its most likely a setup problem - follow wayneones advice - pads lined up with rim etc etc

as for the booster - echo 4 bolt jobby, they're only about 20 quid and seem to work pretty damn well.

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thats all true but koolstops with tar should still be locking pretty solid in the dry.

its most likely a setup problem - follow wayneones advice - pads lined up with rim etc etc

as for the booster - echo 4 bolt jobby, they're only about 20 quid and seem to work pretty damn well.

Have a look at how 'squidgy' the lever feels. If the pads are in contact with the rim and you've still got a lot of give in the lever, one of a few things is happening:

1. there's air in the system (bleed it)

2. the frame and/or bolts are flexing (buy a booster)

3. the pads aren't hitting the rim squarely (get your allen key out and make sure that the entire pad surface touches the rim at the same time - no angle on the pads, tehy need to be entirely parallel to the rim)

4. you have pads that have so much rubber on 'em that it's the rubber compressing that gives the squidginess. (buy new pads that don't squish, but this shouldn't be a problem with the pads you've got)

5. you're running the wrong lever for the type of slave piston you have (buy the appropriate one)

With the bike stationary, when you press the lever, you should be able to feel through the lever the point at which that pad hits the rim; then there shouldn't be very much play in the lever at all, it should pretty much stop there. You should also hear a slight 'clack' sound as the pads hit the rim - that was always my way of telling how well angled the pads were.

The other thing is to try degreasing the pads & rim. I seem to remember muc-off doing great things for my brakes in the past.

If none of the above works, either you need to give your fingers some work-out sessions or get someone who knows maggies inside out to have a look at it.

Failing all that, buy an industrial vice, weld it to your frame at a position so that it can grab your back wheel, attach the tightening arm to a large powerful motor via a hefty chain, then wire the controls for that up to a trigger on your bars - all of this needs to run off a hefty truck battery. Guaranteed to stop you on a sixpence...but you'll then have to learn to backhop a 3 ton bike :)

Isn't life complicated?

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5. you're running the wrong lever for the type of slave piston you have (buy the appropriate one)

I never though this would be a problem? If the pads come out, the pads come out, no problem?

Would an 04 lever body be good with 05 pistons? (Sorry to but in on the topic, just a yes no is ok :) )

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is 05lever/piston the bikes as good as new to but there is flex, i saw a booster on tarty about £30 was huge, and shiny (L) i think you know the one, is that much better then the onza carbon fibre one? (not to bothered about wieght)

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is 05lever/piston the bikes as good as new to but there is flex, i saw a booster on tarty about £30 was huge, and shiny (L) i think you know the one, is that much better then the onza carbon fibre one? (not to bothered about wieght)

If you mean the heatsink one, or the echo ones, then yes, those should be a bit better. However, perhaps you have minute amounts of grease on your rim? Wash your rim thoroughly with sugarsoap, or if you dont have any of that, use washing up liquid, THOROUGHLY, perhaps with an old tooth-brush. If the problem was even un-noticably minute amounts of grease, this could make a hell of a difference (Y)

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If you mean the heatsink one, or the echo ones, then yes, those should be a bit better. However, perhaps you have minute amounts of grease on your rim? Wash your rim thoroughly with sugarsoap, or if you dont have any of that, use washing up liquid, THOROUGHLY, perhaps with an old tooth-brush. If the problem was even un-noticably minute amounts of grease, this could make a hell of a difference (Y)

Deoderant works better fyi because it evaporates like that taking some crap with it, and i had cleaned the rim, try deoderant (cheapo shit btw) for cleaning a frame!

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Deoderant works better fyi because it evaporates like that taking some crap with it, and i had cleaned the rim, try deoderant (cheapo shit btw) for cleaning a frame!

I tried deoderant once upon a time, thing is it leaves a residue, and the grease doesnt actually come off, as grease doesnt evapourate, it mearly will settle into the grooves in the grind (which might work temporarily). Thats why sugarsoap owns, cos it leaves no residue (Y)

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