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The Official Eno Thread :p


Mark W
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Wrote this post out, and unintentionally closed the window.

How did this make me feel?

Less than amused. Let's leave it at that. You'll probably also note the more 'clinical' step by step approach. Before, it just words and pictures. Gone are those happy days. :angry:

Anyway, to start again.

Quite a few people have asked me how to strip Enos and stuff.

Here's how.

Step 1. Get a convenient thing to put under it, 'specially if you're doing it on laminate. It'll save bollockings in the long run. Get a poking tool too, e.g. X-headed screwdriver or allen key tool or a spindly penis. Penis is optional. It's also easiest by now to have taken your pedal off, and the crank off the bike, obviously :P

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Step 2. See the "<- ODNU thing? Let's assume they meant undo :P Using your pokery tool, undo in the direction of the arrow. If it's fresh, you'll probably need to use a hammer + pokery tool (another bonus of the screwdriver).

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Step 3. The bearings have soiled themselves. This isn't nice. That thick grease was all over the pawls and springs, and was the main reason for any skips and the lack of cliiiiiiick from it. Anyway, yeah, that's for later. For now, lookit:

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Step 4. Using kitchen towel stuff (or a rag, I prefer kitchen towel as you can fold it easily to clean the pawl and spring carriers later, plus I love killin' trees) to clean the lockring and this side of the bearings and shit up. Not essential, but just makes handling it a lot better, and if a job's worth doing it's worth doing to a sorta high standard so you can kinda be sure it won't f**k up later.

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Step 5. The main problem, it seems, people hvae when they ask me about how to strip an Eno is this part. The "I can't get my drive shell off, and don't want to use force because it's expensive and I don't know what I'm doing." problem.

Note my stance. I'm kneeling on the crank arm. I'm using my left hand to hold it still. I then yank with the right. This isn't gentle, but that thick metal driveshell can take it ;) Just pull the minx.

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Step 6. Oh noes! A pawl has fallen. This happens once in a while. Just remember that if this was an ACS Claw, you'd have 3 pawls, 2 springs and 18 bearings implanted in your face for daring to undo the lockring and take the shell off. This is a partially cleaned driveshell. To cut a long story short, the postman thought "Hmm, this says Mark Westlake, <Marks address>. I know, I'll deliver it 2 doors down." At 6:40pm I got it. At 6:55pm I left for work. In that time, I cleaned the majority of the freewheel body, and two pawls and springs, incl. carriers. Anyway, yeah, skanky driveshell. Yuck.

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Step 7. Skank.

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Step 8. Kitchen towel for the w!n 'n' all that.

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Step 9. As I mentioned earlier, I'd cleaned some of this up. It was really minging before. Really, really minging. Anyway, you need to wipe the body down with more towel stuff. Just go nuts with it, really clean it. The cleaner it is, the better it'll work. Yay!

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Step 10. Next, you'll need to take out the pawls and springs. Here, we can see a pawl and spring out, and the hell-hole they came out of, namely the pawl and spring 'carrier'. That's chock-a-block with that grease shit again, so that'll get cleaned too in time. NOTE: There are 2 different pawl lengths, do NOT put them in in the wrong order. Just take them out one at a time and you'll be fine ;)

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Step 11. Pawl and spring before:

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Step 12. Pawl and spring after:

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Step 13. Someone just showed me this, and I totally forgot what I was doing here

http://media.skoopy.com/vids/vid_00976.wmv

Step 13b. Pawl carriers. Probably not their technical name, but I don't know it, so "carrier" will do. Either way, clean them. No point in having clean and lovely pawls if you're about to put them back into a shit-filled hole of doom, is there. Make it look roughly like these do:

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Step 14. You now need to reinsert the pawls and springs. By far easiest is doing it springs first, e.g. how I have. You can then pin the spring down with the nose of the pawl, and then pivot the pawl so it goes into the hole properly. Easy peasy. Sorta. If you wanna go all pro (I didn't 'cos it was in the house :P), you can put a drop of light oil (e.g. chain oil) in the carrier holes. Just means they move a little more freely. Alternatively, you can just give it a bit of a spray with GT-85. Horses: courses. I didn't here 'cos it was in the house, but it'll be done before it gets sent off :)

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Step 15. Do the same for all 5 other pawls.

Step 16. You'll have noticed in the background the dirt seal, covered in grease too. Slip it off the freewheel, and bring it down the crank arm. Give it a clean! Anyway, the pawls:

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Step 17. You now need to re-attach the driveshell. Press 2 or 3 pawls in with your fingers, and slide the driveshell on at an angle so it holds them down. Don't need to go mad forceful with this, just enough to get it on and hold them there.

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Step 18. Next, use your poking device to push the other sticking out pawls in (e.g. the pawl here).

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Step 19. Someone else just sent me this and I forgot what I was doing:

http://media.skoopy.com/vids/vid_00984.wmv

Step 19b. After you've pushed the pawls in, slide the driveshell down. Push it aaaaaaall the way down, so when you look down on the driveshell (not this angle!) you can't see the edge of the pawls and springs sticking out the side of it. Feel free to take this time to look at how awesomely well made your Eno is, and how nice the action of the engagement is. Good stuff.

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Step 20. You now need to put the seal back in place. Slide it up the crank arm again, and then use your poking device/fingers to seat it. Don't spin the driveshell yet! The crank arm will stop you getting one patch of seal on. Having done the rest, spin the driveshell round. It'll bring the seal with it. With the bump fully exposed, use one hand on each side to work inwards towards the bump to seat it (think about how you put a bike tyre on). Sorted!

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Step 21. "Eno Lockring" spelt backwards is "Cross threading piece of shit". They simply love the cross-thread. 14 hours and 4,000+ attempts at getting it to go on, I remembered I hadn't cleaned out the threads of the lockring and body properly. I did that, then it worked. Mark's tip: Remember to clean them.

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Make sure it's all the way on ;)

Anyway, that about covers it. Other things you can do are slightly bend the springs outwards to make them a bit more forceful. Don't really need to do it. I noticed a few springs were a bit weedy on this one so I bent the springs a little on some of them to make them work fully. All good.

Now my PMs won't just be Eno-related :) Although if you have other questions, PM me or ask here. I know not many people have Enos here, but it'll be easier having this here for when people ask...

I've probably forgotten something so I'll add more later.

This isn't the FAQ :S

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will that ^^^ be the same for my ACS? (soon(ish) to be a tensile.)

no.

When you pull your driveshell off, all your bearings will fall out everywhere, and the pawls with fall out aswell.

If you have alot of time, and you know how to put the bearings back in n shit, then go for it (Y)

I only have like 10 bearings in 1 side, cause i couldnt be arsd to put em all back in when i serviced it :P

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Brilliant topic mark, ill add to it :)

I find cleaning it out with a old soft brisseled(sp?) paint brush and petrol is really good as it rinses it as your cleaning. Also if you can when you first take the lockring off (the green bit) take the funny clip out and the seal behind that and there will be a little plastic holder that keeps all the bearings evenly spaced out. Take this out and clean the ball bearings out too. Use GREASE in these as they are not in with the springs and pawls and refit the bearing holder. Just take your time with this and make sure you have 1 space for 1 ball bearing. Refit as you did dismantle and make sure the metal clip is in properly. Hope this helped (Y)

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