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alex_trials

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Posts posted by alex_trials

  1. You'll find you rim and pads will get covered in a mixture or dirt, aluminium dust and brake pad dust and with a smooth rim this will effect the brake a lot more quickly than with a grind; you should find a nice light sharp grind will work amazingly with those pads (Y)

    What do you mean by a 'light sharp grind'? Is that like not very deep and grinding at quite a high angle (i.e. nearer vertical with the grinder)?

  2. heatsink pads are awesome, so maybe it ain't your pads

    try removing the brake from your bike, give it some pump and check for lazy pistons and that malarchy, give your pads a clean, rubbing the surface on some sandpaper on a flat surface removes crud well, use fine sandpaper so you don't lose half your pads doing it :-

    Give your rim a grind, really does make a world of difference, ESPECIALLY in the wet

    OK i'll try all that tomorrow and post and update. Thanks a lot for everyone's help, really appreciate it.

  3. if they wear enough that groovy disappears I think

    Either plazmatic CRM or heatsinks then, Unless there's some other yellow pads I've overlooked

    There's every possibilty they're homemade too from some random similar compound

    Pretty sure they're heatsink in that case.

  4. What colour is the pad material?

    They're yellow. If I had to guess I'd say they're heatsink pads.

    Might be worth while giving your rims and pads a good wash down get all the crap off them.

    Will try this also. Any particular method, or just go to town with a power washer?

  5. Woah?! Hold up....

    Do you have a rind on your rear rim? Has it worn smooth? What pads are you using and how much material is left?

    Check the grind (if you have one), Clean the rim if not, check the set up and the bleed and check what pads you have and scrub them clean. There's no point just buying new pads when it could be something simple and free to sort.

    No grind on the rim, hopefully sorting one out soon though. As said above I don't actually know what pads they are as they're the same ones as when I bought the bike second hand. There's about 5 or 6mm left on both pads.

  6. ahhh, if it slips and you have to wrench your lever to get the bite you need, then yes try new pads

    try some heatsink coust pads, they're a beast.

    Ahh right thanks. Yeah I thought it might just be in need of some fresh pads. You don't think it's anything to do with a leak / lazy pistons etc. ? Sorry about all the questions, just want to makes sure :)

    yes sounds like it could be have you tried adjusting it as in the red adjuster on the lever to see if it gets sharper otherwise if that don’t’ work try bleeding it first then get new pads.

    Will do mate, cheers (Y) Just had a look at the cousts, whats the benefit of metal backing rather than plastic?

  7. does it still grab okay?

    if so, why change it? The squeak is reassuring I know, but sometimes mine doesn't squeak either, I still trust it.

    It's not as good as it was a couple weeks ago, i've found I have to hold down harder when back hopping and it's slipped a couple of times whilst pedal kicking recently.

    im same mate, i no it works when it honks :)

    has it just stoped with you not doing anything to them like adjusting the angle,tpa, repaired a puncture etc??

    what pads are you using at the moment??

    Havn't adjusted anything at all on the brakes / lever. I actually don't know what pads they are as I bought the bike a while ago second hand and forgot to ask what they were >_< . Not very helpful I know, sorry.

  8. Hi all,

    Recently my rear magura hs33 has stopped squeaking when i catch my balance for back hops / pedal kicks. When it squeaked, as annoying as it sometimes was, it let me know the brake was working well, and it felt that way too. However recently I've noticed it doesn't make any noise and the brake itself isn't as responsive.

    Could it just be a case of new pads required? I'm fairly new to trials and havn't had to change the pads before so i don't know how worn I should let them get before changing them. Whats going on?

    Thanks for any advice,

    Alex

  9. for a mod go for the trialtech sports risers not high risers, they are the best bars you can buy (Y)

    Yeah i've seen them around quite a bit and look worth the money. Any particular reason these bars are more popular over others?

  10. Hi all,

    I'm riding a Gu mod at the moment with flat adamant bars. I'm thinking of switching to either monty or trialtech risers though and have a few questions.

    What are the benefits of Trialtech's high risers compared with normal risers (e.g. the montys)?

    What sort of angle do people with risers usually have?

    On a mod, what is the actual benefit of risers, as I see most people using them?

    Any help is appreciated, Thanks

    Alex

  11. Stick a nut on the end of it :) (need a longer bolt of 'cause)

    I striped mine the other day too :P

    Works better with a nut and bolt IMO too :)

    But surely each time i try to tighten it the same thing will happen: it widens the crack, gets to a certain point and then goes back to the starting point.

  12. Hey guys,

    I've overtightened the screw on the ring that attaches the brake to the handlebars by accident and the hole that the bolt screws into has cracked. The crack is about 3-5mm long but it now means that i can't tighten the bolt, so the brake is loose on my handlebars and can swing freely.

    What can i do about this? (the brake is a Magura HS33.)

    Thanks

    Alex

  13. Ha Ha you bought that bike off owen :shifty:

    Heat it up mate realy hot and ride with the brake on for a bit

    Or twist the red things on the caliper which is the thing atached on the forks (any way till they are right)

    ( we all heard the conversation when we were in brum did you do any of the advice owen gave you ^)

    :giggle:

    Josh.

    Yeah I tried what Owen said, but as I said before, it just made the brakes really loose, I'll give it another go. How do I heat the brakes up?

    Cheers

    Alex

  14. By the sounds of that your talking about a Avid BB7?

    What you need to do is back the red dials off all the way, losen the caliper-bracket bolts and move the caliper so the disc rotor is right in the middle of the space.

    Then tighen it up, and adjust the red dials so the insode pad is close to the rotor, and the outside to how you like the brake to feel.

    Which way do you turn them, if you are looking forwards (as if you are actually riding) do you turn both wheels forwards or backwards?

    Cheers

  15. Hey,

    I've noticed my front disc brake is rubbing abit on the caliper and is making a light grinding sound.

    I've tried adjusting the two red wheels either side of the caliper, but that just makes the brake itself really loose and non-responsive.

    Is there a way of re-aligning the disc without adjusting how responsive the brake is?

    Thanks

    Alex

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