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      Just starting trials? Post here for advice on what trials bike to buy or basic moves

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      A place to buy bike trials bits. Check out the traders' references and guidelines posted at the top of the forum before parting with any cash!

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    • I forgot one thing: I have the impression it is more difficult when the bike and application are too close. For example I had more difficulties with a 24" race BMX than with a 20" on a pump track or race track where I used to ride a 26" bike. I had a similar feeling when I tried the different 24" street/trial bikes of my friends.  I have a similar problem with the different keyboard layouts I have to deal with (en, dr, fr). I noticed that I don't map a location (home, at work, etc.)  or a device (laptop, workstation, private computer) with a layout but more what specific application I am using (what mail program exactly). But maybe that is just me.
    • Thanks for the input guys! I never had this feeling when switching between my regular MTBs (trail hardtail 29er, 27.5 DH and enduro) and my street trials bike, even when I was still riding a 24". I guess a street trials and MTB are more similar than a street trials and 20" comp bike. Funny thing, as I was convinced before I got it everything would be easier on such a low, small and tiny wheeled bike. I'd just throw it wherever I wanted. Not the case haha. But you've definitely convinced me to just keep on trying on the 20". I'll just be sure to switch regularly, keep it fresh and force my mind and body to learn and adapt more quickly. New moves are good too, working on gaps to front now, something I've never even tried to do in all the time I've been riding. And yeah, doing a pedal up feels more natural on the 20" than doing a bunny hop, but mainly because it is so f'ing draggy with that front freewheel 😁
    • I agree, I didn't think it was the smartest move but apparently they did make sure it was well made. Because it's not really to IS integrated standard as only the upper bearing has changed and it doesn't top out. The upper bearing is integrated to 100% where integrated is only 50% integrated. There is 50% more material on the head tube as it has the dimension of a semi integrated one without cups and the lower bearing is semi integrated. Think of it as a semi integrated headset without cups if that helps. Trust me it's been really well thought.
    • Agree with of you.   Just want to add my own experience: I had several bikes (currently street trial 26", comp trial 20" and 26", 26 and 27.5 MTB) for many many years. From my experience: - if you switch a lot, you will feel comfortable to a new bike faster. - once you are used to a bike, it takes less time to feel well again on this specific bike - but even after many years, you will still need many hours to ride best with the bike. - with experience, you understand better how to use a geometry best. Overall switching to a new bike helps a lot: it is a source of motivation, it forces you to adapt your position, maybe even to force you to execute moves you won't use else.   I currently ride a lot my 20", it was quite weird first but now I enjoy it a lot and it forces to pedal up more obstacles and to be more precise. I think people tend naturally to execute over and over moves they already can. Learning new moves seems to me to be more effective to progress faster.
    • It is a fully integrated headset? Damn, I don't like them. I had once a Devinci with an integrated headset and the bearings damaged the seat: I guess I rode once with a loose headset. I had to buy a headset cutter and the result was OK, but not as good as from the factory. There is no room for error with those headsets. Hope they won't remove the cups of the bottom bracket shell.  
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