dandadude
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Posts posted by dandadude
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Really nice, exactly the sort of thing i'm looking to build up! If you have ridden a 24 street/dj bike you shouldn't find it too hard to switch to this.
Good luck!
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Im sure there has been a lot of topics on this before
Anyway, I use to run maggies front and rear then ended up with double disc with the revel i have now and wouldnt ever go back. After I set up my discs correctly which took all of about 2 minutes I never have to touch them. When i use to run maggies i was forever adjusting them and always found if i adjusted the brake to hold and be as sharp as i wanted it to be It would then every so often catch on the rim or if the brake was adjusted not to catch there would be a fare bit of free play at the lever before the pads would bite on the rim. So if you have a very straight wide rim I would maybe advise maggies as they probably do provide the best brake but for ease and not having to worry about if your wheel is slightly buckled dscs all the way! And i really dont know why everyone says the disc is easy to catch, I never find myself in a position where i would land on my disc unless i was doing something stupid
Dan
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Would one wheel not go faster than the other if it's smaller as well?
Well yep, don't worry you will still live
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Happy new year to you all! Less than 3 hours into the new year and im already back on trials forum
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fast cars
That all depends on what you class as a fast car
But overated things.... Christmas, drinking alcohol, smoking, birthdays.... The list could easily go on but every one would think im grumpy and about 50years older than i actually am
Edit: I don't seem to be able to spell any more...
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Right ok then lets all just say im wrong lol, im only saying what i feel rides nicer for bmxy and park style riding on a 26 as this sounded to me like what the thread starter was trying to compromise with. Im not trying to convince anyone of anything, if you think manually and bunnyhopping a bike with a 75 degree headangle is easier than one with 69-70 then thats up to you but to me the further forward you are the harder that is.
Dan
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I think we are going to have to agree to disagree
I was just saying if the guy is looking for a streetier 26 bike that will bunnyhop and manual easier which to me is two things normal stock trials bikes are terrible for due to being so low and over the front then i personally would get a frame with a slacker head angle and in general a shorter wheelbase. Of course a slacker headangle increases wheel base but frames with a slacker head angle usually have a shorter wheel base then trials frames to start with. Many things could affect the wheelbase, length and offset of the forks, length of chainstays etc.
To be fair though it is not just the frame that would need to change because obviously if your are going towards street you would want a shorter, higher rise stem and more rise on the front in general but again this is all to give you a more central feel on the bike and would make the bike less trials oriented. Regardless of frame his bike will not feel nice for bmxy moves if he is still riding with a 110 x 15 stem and flat bars cus he will still be in a very over the front position which for me makes it very difficult to bunnhop and manual etc.
Also going back to your post before last, you can't really compare bmx to 26 geometry because they are completely different. How bad would a 26 ride with 74 or 75 degree head angle?
By the way im not trying to argue or anything but just thought i would try and explain myself better.
Dan
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What do you call a trials rider who's also a faggot?
Don't really think that was necessary to be fair, why is everyone slagging off willdudeXD?
Thought this topic was quite imaginative compared to some of the recent topics i've seen, couple of the posts even made me chuckle lol.
Dan
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What exactly didnt work? You should be able to make the chain to a length that when the adjusters are as short as possible the chain is just a bit slack and then when you adjust them out it should take out that slack. And if you added a half link and its now stetched and is too long then take out that halflink or even a whole link and it should be short enough.
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Nicely done, even watched a second time
for a contest vid was quite fresh and the music was fine, really liked the bike cam too. Thumbs up from me 
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Whoa whoa whoa there - why, if you're going to be doing streetier, BMXy stuff, would you want a slacker head angle?!
Because with a slacker head angle and by this i mean around 70 degrees rather than 72 your weight is then more over the centre of the bike which is better for bunnyhops, manuals and general spinning etc, no good having your nose almost touching the front tyre if you want to be doing bmx/streety moves but hey thats just my opinion.
Dan
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I think you basically said it yourself, either get a street 26inch frame with slacker head angle and shorter wheelbase such as an old zebdi or woodman elite or whatever and fit a shorter stem and bars..... Or go for a 24, which in your situation i would say thats definetly the best compromise. Maybe try to ride a few 24s first to see if you like them. I dont know about the 2 cogs on the freewhel as havn't had any experience with that though im sure you could run a slightly higher gearing maybe 18 - 15 or 18 -14 and still be able to ride street and trials.
You are always going to have the problem that the more you go towards park/24 street geometry with shorter wheelbase and shorter stem etc you are going to adversely affect how good the bike is for trials. Think you want to weigh that up too and decide which direction your really want to go in.
To finish off if i was you i would try and get hold of a cheap street/24 bike, im sure you could pick something up that wont brake the bank and then you can keep your trials bike for trials and your 24 rig for park etc. Good luck.
Dan
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How many topics do we need on learning first trick?? I know this is new members forum but the amount of 'just got a new bike what to learn first' topics are getting very repetative
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Maybe try the search button
there are quite a few topics like this already started, this topic started only a few days ago is talking about very similar stuff http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=146078But ye look at videos and websites etc and then just go out and practice, practice, practice!!!
Dan
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Just ignore me then
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I would definetly have said blue, in the red position the belt and tensioner are under more strain plus the belt tension is more even on the blue pic. I have never done a cambelt on a 8v volkswagen before though so your choice
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Nice bike, how did you manage to break the hub? What hub is it?
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Sweet, I wouldn't mind being half as good as him!!
First time ive seen a video with an indoor skatepark as nice as that without any skaters or bmxers around lol.
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Slightly pointless topic no offence, like Ben John-Hynes said you can make a video whenever you like. Plus what someone else is like after a years riding may be completely different to your own progression.
Dan
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To be fair the front hub isnt too important in my eyes, mostly just rolls and dosnt take hardly any stress compared to the rear so upgrade that last. For rear hubs its really your budget, hope pro 2s are favoured by many and in my opinion the nicest hub on the market, i would like to get one myself again in the near future
On the crank side of things if your going for a freehub on the back theres a lot of choice in terms of cranks. Most echo, zoo etc cranks are strong and will do the job. Middleburns are the nicest in my opinion but again thats your choice. Again bashguard choice is up to you there are many options available.
Obviously if your going for front freewheel ignore most of what i wrote above as you will need a fixed rear hub rather than freehub however i have never run a front freewheel so cant really offer much advice on them.
I would definetly advice using a chain tensioner with vertical dropouts, its very unlikely you wil get an exact chain length that doesn't need tensioning, plus tensioners are cheap or you can make one yourself fairly easily out of just about anything springy lol.
In terms of gearing you usually get a 20 or 22tooth front chainring with either 16,17 or 18 rear sprocket. I personally run 22/18... well I think i do
lol.I would also recomend going second hand for a lot of this stuff it will save you loads and to be fair cranks and bashguards etc soon look second hand with the abuse it gets through trials. Plus when your validated the buy/sell forum on here is great. Sorry if i rambled too much but hope that helped
Dan
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You might be jumping the gun a bit there, personally i think your best off learning to backhop first to help with balance. When your fairly competent with that start hopping and then drop the front of your bike and at the same time as letting of your rear brake give it a quick kick. You may only move forward a few inches at a time but keep at it and you will be kicking a couple feet in no time
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Usually the whole point of the bearing being sealed is exactly that. You dont need to grease it as the bearings etc are sealed in and all with its own grease. And just a tip to help you get validated quicker you may want to proof read your posts for spelling etc
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Korn - Twisted transistor
By far one of my favourite tunes of all time.
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Erm, the time options are for people who commute to work, so they are full time... put your thinking cap on
Yep I just made an arse out of myself lol, this is what happens when you have been staring at a computer screen for almost 10hours lol
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You make those muscle ups at the end look too easy!