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315r

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Posts posted by 315r

  1.  

    This doesn't look too far off. As Mark said. During the first couple of rides you will need to tighten the cranks again and again and then they should fit nicely with a better chain line.

    Yes. Actually I'm happy with the alignment achieved in the photos. Maybe after some rides and tights I can leave out the washer. Although 8,5mm of tread is enough as trialtech web said....(min 7mm)

    Thanks!

  2. Done!

    I think that It's ok, with 8,5mm of free tread for freewheel.

    I put a lot of grease and tight and untight strongly in different crank possitions 3 or 4 times and the crank end really close to the position of the old one, but not exactly the same. Try-all and Bonz cracks fits perfect and no need and extra washer of 2mm for a perfect chain alignment.

    Maybe in the next rides I can tight it a little bit more...

    Thanks for your Help!!!! 

    Here attach some promised pictures where you can see the alignment, free tread, extra washer and final look.

     

    01301178ec1738139f67f898a03d00cb8ea6653b30.jpg

    010614e762dd19d94ef3cba7f7bb40ae6c9fc60e62.jpg

    019202ef88b5bfcd62d2fd8ff572c662ed7cea78a5.jpg

    015f9333406152e074113fdd174c08ae78b6ef90e7.jpg

    0170c978daf13269e832ef831d8af50271d27225fe.jpg

  3.  

    If it's rideable as it is you don't really need to do that - after a couple of rides they'll bed in a little and should sit on further.  One thing you can do is make sure there's plenty of grease on the splines, and on the crank bolt (and even under the head of the crank bolt) to make sure that when you're tightening them on, you're getting as much out of it as possible.

    Chain line can be a lot out without it making a huge difference to how your bike will work - it would be best for it to be perfect all the time, but that's not always going to be the case unfortunately.  

    Thanks Mark!

    Probably this can happen, after some rides and tighten bolts they'll bed much better than now, but because I have some mental block with a "snapping chains" I prefer that chain line were straight as possible to avoid my feared failures...HAHA!

    I'll give you the result this afternoon.

  4.  

    Where are the cranks going up to on your BB axle compared to where they were before?  If you've got some old, old cranks on there before the splines could be stretched out a bit so they'd sit a little further onto the axle, whereas with some fresh new cranks they might be a tighter fit so won't sit on quite as far.  That shouldn't make a massive difference though.

    Thanks, I'll check this and try to hit with a nylon hammer carefully the crank to ensure that it fits like the old one. But yes, the difference is quite big and the oposite crank is perfectly fitted.... Is strange...

    This afternoon I'll give you the answer!

    Thanks!!!!

  5. Hello!

    I have a problem with chain alignment after change my old Bonz cranks for a new Trialtech SL .

    With no problems in the past with my old Bonz and much more old Try-All ones . Now, with my new ones the chain it's much more outside and the alignment is so poor.

    Today I install a GU ring and extra washer of 2mm and is not enought to achieve the correct alignment. (In Trialtech web claims That at least 7 mm of tread must be cover by the freeweel)

    Which could be the next step? Maybe a displaced sprocket?

    Thanks for your help.

  6. The lap is fantastic Millergo! but what the hell is this music?!

    When I'll be ok of my injury I'll try to do it.

    Que no me saldrá, pero y si sí.....

    • Like 1
  7. The rose-tinted glasses 99% of the trials world like to wear mean that even if they developed some kind of new uber-SL freewheel people would still say that this batch wasn't as good as back in the halcyon days of old.

    No, sorry. In this case it's a fact. Old echo SL is better than the new one.

  8. IMO jump the same flat wall with the same movement over and over again is boring. Like "old TGS". But practice natural trial, with infinite possibilities, grips, angles....is not boring.

    Obviously, actual street trial or brakeless are funny too just because, again, U have infinite movements to do. Creativity is not boring....

  9. I used to break Kool chains all the time. Never had one last more than 3

    My last Z610 lasted 8 months before I changed it

    Interesting, just because Kool chains, in theory, have more load capacity than Z610....

    I have to say that I never used the Z610

  10. Kmc kool chain, heavy, but I prefer to keep my teeth in my mouth rather than have a bike 50 gr lighter..

    Change it every 9-10 months, I never break one after 5 years of riding..

    AAHH! And I never use split link

  11. For one, I wasn't asking for help in this thread and you can very well avoid broken spokes and/or nipples by knowing the right ERD. What happens if the spokes are too short? The threads aren't all the way in the nipple or if they are, you've overtightened the spokes and what might possible happen in either case? You can do the math... or not... So yeah... try to help yourself by reading about how to build wheels instead of illuminating the forum with your smattering.

    Nico.

    EDITED...

    I prefer to edit the content to start being rude......

    Now you can continue "illuminating the forum with your knowledge about web calculators".

  12. Yeah... I mixed them up but still, you get what I mean.

    You're experience doesn't help at all. A spoke calculator (knowing the right ERD) helps more than you do by saying that it works, just because you made the experience on two of your rims. But yeah... what can possibly happen except some cracked spokes and/or nipples?

    Nico.

    Crack some spokes and nipples? Do you think that you can avoid this knowing the Right ERD? OK, if you think that my experience doesn't help you, again, do whatever you want. Hope somebody can help you, and hope you became more grateful with people that try to help you...

  13. Are you serious? Just build a hypothetical wheel on this site. I just tried a frontwheel with a Hope Pro II Hub and Spank Stiffy rims. Now the Stiffy has an ERD of 478. Just by changing the ERD by 4mm results in different spoke lengths.

    ERD=478/laced 3x -> left: 229mm right 331mm

    ERD=474/laced 3x -> left: 227mm right 329mm

    Now 2mm don't seem to make a huge difference but they very well might. So in order to know what do do or what parts to get, the ERDs of the old and the new rim have to be compared.

    Nico.

    If I'm serious? I just want to help you with my experience, but if you prefer to believe this spoke calculator do whatever you want.

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