Scooter916
-
Posts
74 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Scooter916
-
-
chains are cheap, tensioners aren't.
buy a new chain that will fit.
-
BB5 pads are both the same, the BB7 pads are a different shape.
if you can find a BB7 caliper on the cheap that would eb the best upgrade, larger pads and a much stiffer caliper
-
4 men what the hell
i pick one up my my self not that heavy
but can you lift one by yourself that is 12 feet long?
-
might be a bit late but looking at the part that bolts to the mech hanger has three threaded holes on it, is there a screw that is supposed to thread in and rest against the stop on your hanger?
-
Frame-ZHI ZM1 Mod
Fork-ZHI
H-set-Echo SL
Stem-Echo SL
bars-Truvative Hussefelt
grips-ESI silicone foamies
Brake levers- HS33 with Fresh Products lever blade® Avid SD7(F) (still waiting for the lever)
cranks-ECHO SL
Bash-ZHI half bash
F/W- White Ind
Pedals-Specialized Lo-pro Mags
Chain-KMC 810
Rims-Echo TR
hubs-ZHI rear, Adamant front
brake-HS33 with Echo TR clamps and Gu 4 bolt booster (having some custom machining done to it so its not on)
Tires-Maxxis creepy crawlers
-
Different rims will have different 'ERD's' (effective rim diameter).
As the diameter of the rim (more importantly, where the spokes tighten onto the rim) gets larger, you will need longer spoke to reach the rim. The same theory will apply for if you have a hub with a smaller spoke flanges.
Obviously if the rim's diameter is less, or the hub's flanges are larger, then you'll need shorter spokes..
Having incorrect lenghts of spokes can cause many problems!
1 - if the spokes are too long, then the nipples will not be able to screw on tight enough.
2 - if the spokes are to short, you run the risk of stripping the threads of the spokes.
3 - it makes it much harder to build!
+1!!
not to mention once a wheel has ben tensioned and ridden even for a short while, it is bad to re-use the spokes, they WILL snap randomly and require a full rebuild down the road. spokes are cheap just replace them while you get a new rim
-
Oooh, is that a Blue BB7? or some other clone..?
its a BB7 that I had ceramic coated, the adjuster knobs are rattle canned
-
its pricey but if you can swing it NOKON is amazing
I have it on two single speeds, my road bike, cyclocross bike, and now my trials bike
-
what lever do you have on the right side? pics?
-
Its not bad actually. I'm not super impressed with the power, and I have to keep a zip tie on it to keep it from stressing the hose. But considering its the cheapest hydro-gyro you can buy its decent.
What was your screen name on OTN? Or better yet, you ride keyesville or kernville last year?
same screen name, I just git into trials in November and am waiting on the last few parts of my bike to get it finished. I can't wait for OTN come back live, I am looking for people to ride with locally
-
Whats up fellas. I'm a new member from Southern California, recent OTN refugee. Some of you know me as the same screen name on there. I'd like to be able to post in the OTN thread someday but I guess I have to learn to crawl on this site before I can post. Guess I'll see you guys around.
welcome from another OTN refugee from Nor-Cal
I like your atom lab, how well does the hydro gyro work?
-
I have been running the alligator on my XC bike since September and they work great with a BB7 and nokon housing, better power than any stock avid rotor, but one word of advice, the gold TiNi coated calipers take a awhile to bed in, the coating needs to wear down, the standard stainless are better from the start.
I just bought an alligator starlite for the front of my mod, I may run it on my SS to bed it in than transfer it back to my mod
-
I hope nobody is waiting for me to start the thread, i have only bleed HS33's once and it was 6 years ago, I had to read the manual. there are a few others on the forum that would do a better job, I just wanted to put it out there
-
maybe a mod should sticky an HS33 bleeding Q&A so there isn't a new thread popping up every three days, maybe include water bleed, royal blood, and any other questions related to HS33's
similar to the "really small questions" thread in NMC but just for HS33 and maybe discs too
any thoughts???
-
the BB is hardened cro-moly and the cranks is aluminum so the crank will die before the BB, if you ride especially trials with a loose crank bolt it allows the crank to loosen and causing the taper to round out.
Now is the perfect opportunity to upgrade to an ISIS system
-
awesome, looks like your very comfortable on the rear wheel.
Not to sound cocky or anything but a little more practice on track standing will help you tons
-
what was making the sound? the crank/freewheel or the frame?
sometimes frames have some excess slag in the tubes that wasn't shaken out after production
-
are the rear brake studs going to be in the right spot? it seems you shifted the seatstays forward, so you may be braking on the tire
-
what freewheel do you have? most use a common (Park, Pedros, Shimano) 4 prong tool but ECHO F/W have their own tool and if its a White Industries they make a tool which fits like a glove with their freewheel.
-
Hey I am currently riding an Onza Rip but I am in some desperate need of a new frame. I was wondering if any of you know of a good website other than tartybikes as everyone directs me towards it and I keep saying I only have £200 and want a good frame. But none of them understand.
Any help would be very much appreciated
From onza_rip95
Thankyou
biketrialseller.com
got my ZHI ZM1 for $76 new
-
so do the HS33 slaves and ECHO lever work well together? I am torn between the ECHO SL and TR lever, I have set of pre-05 Maggies with a cnc blade but like the idea of a longer lever blade.
-
you can try olive or vegtable oil.
-
Thank you for the reply.
your welcome
-
Scooter916 where do you live ? How much did the parts cost and how much was the shippment ?
How long did it take for the parts to arrive ? Did they arrive at your home or at the postal office in your town ?
Thanks for the reply.
I am in USA in California, they arrived at my house but did require someone to be home to sign for the package
parts were $292 CAD
shipping was $122.5 CAD
since you pay via payapl you have the option to pay in CAD and paypal with calculate the currency conversion for you
details of shipping and a more in depth reply can be found here
Chain Tensioner
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
maybe you didn't understand my post, why spend $35 plus on a tensioner when you only have to spend $12 on a chain. I under stand the chain is brand new but unless your tensioner is broken why replace the expensive part?
its like if you bought a new fork that the steer tube was a few mm to short so you went out and bought a new frame