[Alloy Bolts]

I have run alloy bolts almost everywhere on my bike for some time now, the others are titanium and i run these on the hub bolts, disc brake mounts and the stem where it clamps onto the bars.

Ive only had two bolts fail and these were both when unscrewing them, both caused by not using antiseize

[Very Expensive]

In future darcy can get most things you would want http://biketrial.co.nz/

[Echo Pure Sl Pimp Build]

Thanks for all the positive comments guys I love the bike too, I'm aware of how weak the forks are, however the only ones I can get here in nz are echo urbans.

The brake is the goods! Now I've fixed up the leaks I found in it.

I previously had a Rockman forged stem on it with my old frame and it always felt too low so I put this one on to try it and for me it feels much better.

Yeah mark is right the ti fittings are Ellen ones from Amas wong.

Weighed the cranks myself at 331g however they are very flexy and I'm unsure how well they are going to last.

I have always set my front brakes up with the lever way out, feels good to me.

There are two ktms there, one is dads 350 and the other is my 250xc.

The stem is a try all 3d forged 20" one.

The front disc was a bit of a lightweight project of mine too, including disc and all bolts it weighs 325g I have run that disc for over a year now it is 99g and I have no problems with it

[Echo Pure Sl Pimp Build]

Upgraded most of the parts on my bike so i figured id start a new thread.

Had my first go at building wheels this week and it seems to have come out alright,

Anyway heres some pictures

I havent weighed it yet but im hoping for sub 8kg

Also Thanks to D'Arcy from Biketrial.co.nz for all the echo parts http://biketrial.co.nz/

Amas Wong for the ti hose fittings, tyres and bars http://www.amasw.com/

Matt Foster from Trials Factory NZ for my TNN ADM pads which are due any day now http://trialsfactorynz.webs.com/products

And Tarty for their always amazing service. BTW their New Trials Shorts are the tits!

[Zoo! 26 Custom_Street_Fighter]

How does that front brake go with drilled side walls and an hs33?

[Bike Diet.]

The bottom bracket i saved a decent amount, i dont have a picture of that though. total maybe comming up to 150ish grams? i did my front rim too thats included in that weight.

Link? i couldn't find it.

That would be my thread... theres been a fair bit more done since i last updated that thread link is here

[Weight Reductions]

If you're looking for yet more savings, once you've opened out the headtube, you could enlarge the purge holes in the top and down-tube.

Same goes for the bottom of the downtube and top of chainstays if your tooling can fit inside the BB somehow.

This what you were meaning?

[Pure, New Zealand]

Sorry to bump this, where did you get your stem from? Whats the geo on it?

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/26_inch_stems/rockman_forged_with_top_cap/c41p11271.html

[Pure, New Zealand]

That looks very sweet, its like bike bulimia, addictive and interesting to see how far you can push it! haha but i like it.

Haha yeah it is addictive, ive been out on the die grinder again, the hole in the head tube has gotten a fair bit bigger and a few other bits

if you want strong, light and reasonable priced pedals consider the superstar magnesiums, they're really robust for mag pedals...

Ive changed to echo steel caged pedals now since snapping the axle on one of my ti ones, but yes those are very good looking pedals

that looks stunning!

with what did you sand the frame?

120 grit sandpaper, currently polishing frame up now, got sick of matte finish

This has to be the nicest looking bike on the forum!!! I wouldnt change a single part!!

Thanks mate

get a set of step drills and go wild on your front rim, got mine down to just under 460g with space for a few more holes too, it takes forever to do and i killed my drill in the process hahaha

how do the pedals ride? been thinking of opening mine out too.....

I like drilling things alot but that is over the top lol good on you. What sort of rim did you start with? ive been thinking about drilling the side walls on my front.

The pedals were mean but the cage collapsed on one and it broke on the corners, however grinding every second tooth off makes a huge difference and ive done that to my new steel ones

you could change your rear tyre by a continental rubber queen 2.2 wich is 650g and as large as the try all 2.5.

Don't take the continental 2.4 you couldn't put it in the frame.

Ive gone back to a maxxis larsen tt 2.35 folding for the back which many riders run here it is 600g ish

[Pure, New Zealand]

wouldn't a front vee help cut the weight down? i know you'd have to change a few parts but the sl forks concern me anyway =p

With the weight of disc brakes and the increased performance, modulation etc of discs i dont see the point of changing. sl forks have lasted me well, i have a mate who has cracked two sets of Echo urban forks in the time ive had these.

Looks to me like a pretty good set up.

I think you've done a damn good job of making the holes neat and tidy, look like they're drilled in the right sorta places too!

Nice spec, with a Der Kaiser on the rear I could definately ride that.

Thanks mate. Yeah the frame has held up well. the pedals, not so much. one of the cages broke then one of the axles snapped so ive replaced them with a steel set.

If the der kaiser were ligher it would be awesome.

Really nice spec but I still would not cut hole into the pedals, the frame and other parts. especially if the bike is as nice as that!

Yes i regret Drilling the pedals but i am happy with the frame etc.

your bike looks just like perfect !

very very nice built

love it

Thanks Mate

[Pure, New Zealand]

Hey mate, your bike looks lush!

Where in NZ are you? I'm up in Auckland but my family is in the Waikato.

Also loving the beta!

Yo Joe I'm in Hamilton, and Cheers its Matt's old rev3

[Pure, New Zealand]

New Forks, front hub, rims, tyres and front disc

[Pure, New Zealand]

I've put a lot more effort into the cutouts now, sanded the paint off and my hope hose parts and rims arrived today so I've built up the hose in a manner similar to that of some of the tarty staff builds...

Pedals have also seen some more modification, they now offer a lot more grip but have made wearing shin guards somewhat of a necessity.

Anyway here's some pictures of the last couple days progress

I squared up the edges as they were a tad on the piss, and generally cleaned up the area

Here are the pedals 'Ive not weighed them but i suspect they will be sub 200g for the set now. they are very grippy now!

Rims arrived a Trialtech Square hole front and a Rockman Single Wall rear. They aren't the lightest rims on the market but with the front this was the lightest 32h trials rim i could find. 32h to suit my echo hubs and prevent the extra cost of getting a 28h hub.

And with the rear I've only heard good things about these rims as opposed to the lighter v!z rims which I've only heard bad things about

Hope mono trial with new Kevlar hose and reduced weight setup. After giving this a proper bleed it is much much better than before with the braided line, looks much cleaner and i'm very happy with how it turned out

Also I'm taking suggestions on tire selection I'm liking the look of a Try-All shift/stiky lite set but will be just as happy keeping the mountain king on the front. any views on a Conti Rubber Queen 2.4 for the rear would be appreciated, Thanks.

[Hope Trial Break Bolts]

I did a search but couldn't find any info.

I need to attach a hope trial rear disc brake to a Zoo! Lynx frame and I'm not sure which bolts I need to mount the calliper on the frame.

I think it's either m6x20 or the m6x18? Does anyone know? Thanks

Edit: Just realised I spelt it break

I used m6x18 on the rear of my echo 24 urban, worst comes to it, get the m6x20 the trial fit them for clearance when they arrive and if they are too long, file them to suit. Saves getting m6x18 and them being too short. Or you could measure the width of your disc mount and of the threaded part of your caliper then allow for any washers you may need. and this will give you the minimum required shank length.

M6x18 should fit unless you have mega thick disc tabs

[Pure, New Zealand]

Explain me the mod on the headset, i like the bike , theres nothing more dangerous than a bored rider with a dremmel hhah

The headset just has the top cap, bolt, starnut and spacers removed from it and on the kitchen scales which are rather inaccurate, ive just brought a digital set so the weight table will get a re-hash once that arrives.

If you were going to go the full mental on it I would get those cable guides attacked, positioning of them is my only gripe of the whole frame would look much neater under the top tube.

yea if you look closely on the photo of mine, they are actually welded on the piss slightly

If you butchered the Tartybikes superlight project stock bike like that, you would probably get it into the 6kg barrier considering it weighed 7.80kg.

By my calculations, using what i would deem silly parts, carbon forks, ti spokes etc 6.4 is achievable without modifying anything

[Pure, New Zealand]

Pretty brave buying a brand new frame and drilling holes, and cutting bits off it, if you ask me.

Thanks?

[Pure, New Zealand]

I would use Atomz rims for the rear. For 1 year I made a 610g light rear rim out of an old try all double wall rim, and it was strong enough. You can use 2/1.5/2mm spokes for the front rim and yes I would also change the hope hose.

BUT to drill the caged echo pedal...did you used caged pedals? 1 wrong side and you can change the cage and that's not a joke.

There are some point in the Echo frame what can be drilled without making it weak, but I think you didn't make a good job. I think it's a little bit weaker, so be careful with that bike.

Hope hose and lighter rims are on the water should be here by Monday. The spokes i'm currently using are double butted (2/1.5/2mm) The pedals were new, if that's what you were asking???

What is wrong with drilling the cages, like i said the failures of the echo cage pedals have been well documented, however every broken set Ive seen still have intact cages and i'm looking at a way to relieve stress on the body of these pedals to prevent mine from failing also. I don't understand what you've said after that, 1 wrong side???? I suspect some error in translation. What parts do you not think Ive done a good job with? I'm fine with people critiquing what I have done but PLEASE be a bit more constructive with your feedback. Thankyou

[Pure, New Zealand]

Nice bike but I really don't understand why people feel the need to drill frames and other parts. I'd understand it if the bike weighed 7,5kg because that's light for a stock but 8,1kg can easily be accomplished using normal parts. Anyway, it's your bike not mine

Given time it will be sub 7.5kg...like next couple of weeks

Reasons why i have done this:

1. I wanted to see how much i could remove without adversely affecting the structural integrity of the frame, sure this may have been comprimised to an extent but ive only removed material from places where the engineer at work recommended in fact ive not touched areas he recommended like the dropouts, seat tube etc.

2. boredom, its the middle of winter in NZ atm so riding is basicaly reserved for the weekends and the odd fine winter day we get here and there. Also I've quite enjoyed modifying these parts

3. Weight Reduction, initially i was going to wait for the next echo shipment and get a mk2 pure frame but for the price i paid for this frame i can get almost 2 mk1s for the price of one mk2.

I give it 2 months to live. + if you so concerned about weight... why are you using SL rims!?

Just out of interest where do you think it will break first?

The SL rims were cheap and my new rims should arrive by Monday... fingers crossed,

they should have arrived on the Tuesday just gone but they've only just left Singapore this morning

[Pure, New Zealand]

The 2011 Echo frames got into the country the other week so i went to the the importers place to have a look and discovered the new mk2 echo frames, sadly only one was brought into the country and it was allocated to my mate matt.

So i decided to go about lightening a mk1 pure frame, so far ive got it down to 1460g from 1520g so thats not a bad effort. i think i should be able to get it to 1400-1420 without too much effort.

Maybe if i get bored with it ill try a carbon top tube but its light enough for now.

Anyway here's some photos

Yes ive copied Adam with two ti and two alu stem bolts. I have in the past run all alu bolt in my stem, however when I went to adjust the bar angle one of the bolts snapped.

Opened up the holes in the pedals from 5mm to 9mm, I'm yet to see a broken cage on these pedals.

Cat came out for a look see.

Installed Ti BB, did some drilling of the BB shell (holes may get enlarged at some point)

The photos make this seem much rougher than it is in real life and yes i am well aware that the BB shell will fill with mud etc, with such a large hole in the rear of it, it should be easy to clean out. Plus the holes in the bottom will allow for the drainage of trapped materials.

Few grams saved here, removed the end of the top tube and opened up the hole where the seat tube joins the top tube

Hadn't quite finished grinding here but our old compressor overheated and i was busting for a ride on it,

I've opened up the hole in the front an additional 6mm from each edge and was attempting to open up the holes inside the steerer tube where the top and bottom tubes meet when the compressor died.

Yes i know completely pointless drilling but... why not

Spec for bike is as follows with approximate weights for individual components, Note that some parts have been weighed by myself at home and others such as wheel components are shown with the claimed manufacturer or tarty weights.

Frame: Echo Pure mk 1 modded 1460g

Fork: Echo Sl Disk Black 680g

Freewheel: Echo Sl Titanium 108 143g

Stem: Rockman forged 157g

Front Brake: Hope mono Trial 180mm with Tryall disk 379g

Rear Brake: Magura hs33 2011 with TNN clamps alloy bolts and TNN Belaey pads 320g

BB: Echo urban ti 180g

Headset: Echo Sl modded 70g

Handlebars: Rockman Carbon with foam grips 226g

Pedals:Echo sl caged ti mod 210g

Cranks: Echo Sl 2011 170mm 410g

Front Tire: Continental Mountain King Supersonic 26x2.2 480g

Rear Tire: Maxxis Larsen TT 26x2.35 620g

Rear Sprocket: Echo Ti 15t 20g

Bash Ring: Echo sl half 19g

Tubes: Continental supersonic 80g CST standard 200g total: 280g

Chain: KMC z610-hx 280g

Front Wheel:

Rim: Echo Sl 620g

Hub: Echo Sl 138g

Spokes: 192.4g

Rim Tape: Trialtech 30g

Total:980.4g

Rear Wheel: Echo sl 26"

Rim: Echo Sl 780g

Hub: Echo Sl 176g

Spokes: 192.4g

Rim Tape: Trialtech 45g

Total:1193.4g

Total: 8107.8g

Lately Ive been running the mountain king on the rear and my Maxxlite 285 on the front (which i prefer over the Mountain king for the front, seem a tad large). With these the bike weighs in at weighs 7700g approx on floor scales

Next Changes will be:

-Changing front rim for Trialtech Square Hole

-Changing Rear rim for Rockman Single Wall

-Changing front brake line to Kevlar and shortening it

Enjoy

[My New Echo Urban 24"]

how does the spoke tensioner attach to the bike?

I filed an angle onto the edge of the deralier hanger and it is held between this and the frame, if you look closely on the last photo you'll understand what i'm talking about

[Echo Lite Sl And 2011 Echo Sl Forks]

Hi Adam Sweet bike, just a quick question about your brakes, how do you bleed these when you remove the bleed nipple?

[Echo Pure Mk 2 Ti]

So, how does this one differ to the mk1? Apart from the colour (which I prefer).

I Weighed the two of them back to back the mk1 was 1770g with the steel BB and matts mk2 was 1570 with the ti bb

The mk2 appears to be the same base frame as the mk1 only with a ti bb and it is bead/sand blasted and anodised instead of being painted

This was all I noticed comparing the two frames back to back

[Stan's New Bike + Video!]

Hey nice work with the frame, Any chance of an update four months should be a good enough test for durability

Thanks

[Lower Back Pains?]

Hey mate i was getting the same pains you speak of a while ago when i started learning manuals, so i started stretching my hamstrings before and after riding and my back is fine now.

Hope this works for you

[My New Echo Urban 24"]

So i had a bit off free time today so i got the grinder and my file out and took the hs33 mounts off, while i was at it i made a spoke chain tensioner which seems to be working good now, Changed to a KMC Z610, and then while i was turning the brake disks around i had a go at brakeless for a bit... not really me.

Brakes are back on now.

Bike weight is down under 10kg now half-link chain and tensile tensioner must be heavier than i thought.