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mafu26

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Posts posted by mafu26

  1. manualling is possibly the most enjoyable trick going.

    took me a few years to get it dialled, but here's a few things that helped me...

    i noticed the front end came up easier when i was carrying a heavy bag on my bike from spot to spot, this made it a doddle to manual.

    also keeping your head back as far as poss too to help the weight balance.

    having a high pressure in the rear tyre so there's less tyre in contact with the ground made a massive difference when you need to turn whilst manualling to stop you falling off sideways. likewise a smoother tyre, something like a dmr moto is good.

    also having a minimal grind so you can get more modulation and less bite than a heavy grind.

    practice practice practice!!!

  2. i think it helps with the dispersion of stress too. so when you apply force to a tube the stress will disperse in a certain way. depending on the application you can then beef up/change the shape of the tube (hydro forming) so it can handle the stress better.

    try and find some 'manufacturing process' text books online. 'economies of scale' which i think the other lad at the top touched on.

  3. which part of them broke? was it the small flange that pulls on the axle when you tighten it up? if so mine broke too. what i ended up having to do is have the tugs pulling on the bolt/quick release just so you can find the write tension. but what you find is when you tighten up the bolts/qr the wheel will move slightly from where you originally had it. it takes a bit of trial (haha) and error to get it right but it is possible

    its a really good idea but poorly made. that flange should have been alot thicker or made out of steel instead of aluminium. if you use bmx tugs i think it might pull on the bolts/qr too unless you can find some pull directly on the axle. i sold my ciquena to revolver. he might have changed the tugs if you can get any sense out of him.

    hope you get it sorted.

    mat.

  4. what tensioner are you running? is there enough wrap on the cog?

    i think the chain needs to be roughly wrapped around half or more of the cog to give enough grip for it not to skip. if your tensioner is currently pushing down on the chain it may be the case that there's not enough chain wrapped around the cog, if so try reversing the tension on the tensioner so its pushing up. this should give more wrap around the cog, although you may find your chain might be too long. take a pic if you can cos that might help. also whats the chain line like? are the cogs at rear roughly on the same line at the cranks?

  5. i remember agggggessssssss ago talking to martin walker and his idea was there was less mass to move when you go for a rolling explosive pedaling move because the chain is already moving therefore you don't have to make the extra effort in order to get the chain moving... bit far fetched! but at the time we were convinced that was the reason until someone told us about being able to run an overall smaller set of cogs for clearence by having the freewheel at front.

  6. i think fair do's anticipating a potential crash before you do a move. but i think we always over exagerate the severity of the crash and if we do crash its normally. i guess you learn to land on your feet with and you'd be suprised how quick we are to react. i think the best way is progression and take things at your own pace.

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