hardcore_raver
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Posts posted by hardcore_raver
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well if greasin it dont work then try takin bb out, clean it up n grease it and the threads and screw back together.
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i broke my collar bone doin trials
snapped clean in two, comin up to 2 years ago now and im jus getting back into it but i will prob suffer a bit from the high power moves. -
well if everything is tight and the wheel is leaning to the left check the spoke tension, if thats ok then the only thing i could suggest is trueing the wheel to the right (tighten the right side spokes).
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with new cranks its simple, providing you have a torque wrench and some grease (i always used lithium grease) and apply the grease to the taper and slip on the crank.
as dave said 40-45 Nm's is the recomended pressure for cranks, to little and you risk the crank working loose, too tight and you will destroy the angle which enables the cranks to stay locked in the same position on the taper.
the grease is to make sure that the pressure is applied evenly up the shaft/taper and a MUST HAVE for any set of new cranks (or old, providing the threads are clean) is some threadlock, applied to the crank bolt and you shouldnt have any problems.
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technically, it does.
his could have been contaminated/badly set-up etc...
lots of variables.
correct, a larger disc means providing the brake has the same amount of power (from lever) theoretically the larger disc will stop quicker than the smaller one due to basic laws of physics.
its all to do with momentum and speed; a larger disc has a higher speed (mesured on perimiter of disk) but less momentum which means that the same amount of power through the lever will actually produce the same amount of pressure, but because of the momentum being minimised by using a larger disc, it means that the wheel will stop quicker.
"So effectively, there are greater forces landing on ledges etc with a larger wheel. True?"
FALSE
wheel size is a similar matter although strength comparisons are hard to make as more money is put into research in 26" wheels than 20", not to say that there arent good 20" wheels on the market today.
there are a lot of variants in these things but careful concideration and reviews can help.
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or you could just use a headset press
the "redesigned" version that some of the other users drew would be good, however gettin the precision when making it may prove difficult, as long as the two "cups" are parallel to each other, the only thing you will have to worry about is getting leverage on the top "cup" to turn it down the thread, but that should be all you need to know, as most of the people have the right info
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you just have to have them done up very tightly and you're all good to go!
yes if you like to destroy the taper on the cranks, i would suggest maybe checking the torque settings for the cranks, i believe its 60Nm although manufacturers reccomendations may vary.
theres nothing wrong with most onza cranks, i used a set of armstrongs (on 26") and didnt have any problems in the time i used them.
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Does anyone know if there is such thing as a ti chris king rear hub? if so where can i buy one and how much would it cost.
Im asking because i have been offered one for my frame bb and cranks but i cant find one anywhere to see what its worth or if its even real.
Any help will be useful
thanks anyone
dave
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at the moment i am riding on an almost bald high roller 40a dual ply and that tyre was brilliant, i never had one pinch using that tyre and they are very resilliant to thorns etc.
i need to buy a new tyre(s) soon but i had about 8 months out of that tyre (i dont do skids) and i ride on the roads quite a lot with it but due to the tyre being so soft in compound it creates unwanted friction which slows you down.
maybe ill buy a 60a and see what their like.
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i dont get too many pains in my knee's but i do get that feeling a lot where your knee feels out of position (i know i have dislocated my knee's enough) and it feels horible, usually a few days of doing as little as u can helps to sort out the problem, but streching in the morning is the best way to avoid getting those problems.
also the cod liver tablets sound like a good idea, so i might get me self a bottle of them :angry:
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^_^ i love it, although it could do with a diffrent frame colour that way it would probably show more detail. Add something visual, on that bike the first thing you notice is the red crank :-
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yeah my hope mono ti has new stiffer pawls and springs and it works a treat, never let me down yet and its been 4 months since the work was done.
there wasnt anything wrong with the old pawls and springs but the stiffer ones work better.
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im running 8 speed rear mech and that does me fine and i wouldnt want to switch to single speed because i use 2 diffrent gears for most moves and i do cycle around on it occasionally so i would have 18t chain ring and 11t on the rear which is ok for a ride round.
even though i dont do comps, i think that you should be allowed to use single speed aswell as gears, theres a fair few people who ride single speed 26".
it would be nice to see a trials specific part which would replace the rear mech and then i think i would go for single speed, but untill then gears will do fine
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i think you would have to speak to Dan Ko in order to find out what viz stuff is like.
Chai has a lot of viz parts on his python and it looks nice.
www.vizbikes.com????
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The bike looks cool. Is kerrie still buying? Just wondering because she hasnt been on msn recently
dont know what your on about but shes online now.
hope you manage to sell it whole, not many people manage to sell whole but you may be in luck if kerrie buys it. :unsure:
Search For Video
in Trials Chat
Posted
Hey people I was wondering if you lot could direct me to some videos of 24" trials bikes being ridden or even better post me up some links. Anything along the lines of the onza zoot would be great.
thnx in advance
Dave