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deanie-b

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Posts posted by deanie-b

  1. You ever done the pad bodge? You seem to dismiss lots of ideas when you actually know f**k all about them.

    haha, seems like you're in the know? it's not something i've actually done, care to advise?

  2. You could try new brake pads - I'd be very slow to risk doubling the backings, especially if it's a back brake as this is a recipe for very nasty crashes if it fails. I remember someone mentioned Magura mounts being available with more offset than standard, but I think they were 4 bolt rather than Evo mounts.

    Probably the ideal solution is to get a wider rim, but failing that new brake pads is a much cheaper option. Here's what I use: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=22_35 - on a harsh grind they get eaten quite quickly (They last around 2 months in the back brake, riding 4 or 5 days a week). The red pads have slightly better hold, while the green ones happen to match my bike better (The black ones are almost certainly the nasty ones that come as standard in Maguras and are not to be trusted for trials)...

    it's okay, i sorted a decent way of getting my pads closer to the rim, the frame's 'legs' weren't sitting that straight on the hub, because the snail cams were pushing them out 3mm on each side, so i've removed the cams and put 'em on the outside of the dropout, therefore gaining 3mm each side :)

    I've been wondering about those pads for quite a while, you don't happen to know what they're like ok a lightish/medium grind do you?

    ta, Dean

  3. Have you tried adjusting the brake pistons closer to the rim where they're clamped to the frame? Sounds like the pads are a bit worn. Running the TPA wound in all the way tends to cause them to break earlier too and loads the guides for the brake pads on the pistons more than with the TPA wound out, so it's better for brake longevity to keep the TPA wound out as far as possible.

    Yeah :/, they are.

    I was thinking about perhaps doubling up my pad backings so i can get the actual pads closer to the rim :mellow:

  4. well i would give it a fresh bleed anyway, and see if that solves the problem.

    as soon as you press the lever you should see instant movements at the cylinders, if not then there is probably air in the system and will need a bleed as i just said.

    hope this helps

    Ta matey :)

  5. do you mean bleeding the brake so that the cylinders stick further then normal, if so this is possible.

    you will probably need a mates hand but if you get some plyers and pull out the mountings that the pads sit on and then bleed it then you end up with the brake being over bleed but you can get more distance with the magura.

    i would only use that as a temp solution though, im not sure if it would put any stress on the magura or not?

    is the rim to skinny for the frame?

    Im not sure if it is, it seems alright, the pads aren't that fat, but there's enough there.

    It's a long echo lite by the way :)

  6. I'm now back into trials after a bit of a shoulder injury. A couple of days ago, i put a fresh grind on my rear (ronnie), and cleaned the pads up a bit too. But now the locking point is a bit too far away for my liking, even with the TPA wound all the way in. A friend said that if I rebled the system really well, I might have the cylinders pushing out further? It's something i'd not heard before, so though i'd ask here.

    by the way, i'm skint, so I can't be buying new mounts or whatever :)

  7. Lol, Sorry ? haa,

    Would magura them selves be able to do anything about it ? is it a manurfacturing default thingymabob.

    Firstly : of course not? You took it apart yourself, meaning a qualified cycle mechanic hasn't done it?

    Secondly : there's no need, they just go in! "Man-up" is spot on, they tap back in with care and patience.

    Edit: and you're using water

  8. Yes. I don't know too much on this subject but I would imagine welding a crack weakens the material more so due to the heat involved, making it more likely to snap again in the same place. Obviously you won't crack the welding, but it would crack next to it.

    Theres plenty of these sort of topics knocking about, have a search and find peoples input :)

    Kinda right.

    If the weld is heat-treated, it can often become significantly stronger than the weld before (Y), if you're going to deal with a decent welder/fabrication company, heat-treating should take place, and if it does you have nothing to worry about. Get a gusset welded where the crack was :)

  9. First of all, there are plenty of trials companies. Second, I don't think ZHI is trying to change things up, help the sport, or bring out anything innovative. They're just stealing designs from other company's to try make a quick buck.

    My thinking.

    You can compare these frames to so many others :mellow:

  10. yeah you've damaged the suit, its your fault etc, but if you didn't sign anything you're not legally bound to it... But if it were me Id pay for it. Think about role reversal, you're the business owner, now with a f*cked suit...

    wasnt fully my fault though...... got attacked from behind

    Yeah, but like he's said, you've still got a f**ked suit, it's just bad luck matey (N)

  11. "would you talk like that to your customers" Explain a misconception, vigorously defend a brand, and maybe throw in a sarcastic quip.............. good lord, yes! Lest we all become dullards.

    I think it's apparent that I was referring to the attitude you've displayed that has been mentioned several times in this thread

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