Filo
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Posts posted by Filo
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Have you ever had a Shimano brake in your hands? It comes with the pin already bent, just not in a 90° angle. So for XC racing it's pretty much retard proof.
Yet you still lost one.
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if your split pin is falling out then you're doing something wrong
Not when your the forums self appointed brake expert
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Sadly trials bikes have no resale value since the complete echo's come out.
People always say they can get a new bike for x amount. So you always have to drop below that.
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I'd do it in person, to many people have issue with posting swaps.
If you guys are meeting up, take some tools and check everything over.
Like rounded and missing bolts. These can give a lot of issues down the track.
Parts are parts, bikes are only as good as they are assembled.
This is from my experiences in swaps.
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Wouldn't that be mods?Best looking glorified hipster bmx.
Hipster love having things different, and since they have no seat, there "cool as f**k" to hipsters
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What chain are you using aswell?
Check chain line
Check teeth on sprockets
Are you over tensioning?
What gearing are you using?
There can be a few contributing factors.
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My grub screws loosened during a comp. it made the brakes all kind of weird.
I used the standard screws and loctite, they haven't moved since.
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Not saying that they're wrong, just not needed. Question is whether the bolts are long enough with that many washers but they do look like the ones Avid uses so it should be fine.
Using the washed means the bolts don't dig into the caliper, the bolts dig into the alloy washes. I'd say it's a better set up then just cranking the bolts again the caliper, who knows it may help stop the caliper snapping like the ZEE tend to do.
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Looks like there used just as a washer with a bigger surface area. Nothing really wrong with using them.
I didn't know that Hope used those Avid type washers with the caliper screws. Pretty certain that they aren't necessary.
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With the echo frame coming face, are you sure it's faced, not just the machining work when they made the head tube?
If you look at most bikes the head tubes and bb's are faced when manufacturing the components. The head tubes are machined out to have a nice interference fit with headsets.
All the frames have a concentric and flat face on these areas. Some might distort during welding, these are more likely alloy frames which have a lot of welding on them.
Facing head tubes and bb isn't really required these days because most is done before welding, it's more of an old school method to bring older frames back into a good working order.
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The 110x35 stem is perfect for trials and street riding on the hex
The 130x25 is perfect for just proper trials
The 90x35 is perfect for just street
I've tried all these stems on my hex to see how they worked, the above is my findings.
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Freewheel arnt perfectly concentric. The play in the bearing and the way the out side(tooth section float) basically when tightening a chain you need to rotate the cranks around, I stop every 90degrees for a full revolution and check the tension. There is no way your ever going to get a constant tension while using a *** with horizontal drop outs.
When your hoping on the rear and only kicking for a bit you tend to stretch that one spot more then others, this also helps with the uneven tension.
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I run 65psi in both, running contis. I never liked the holly rollers.
I run my bars slightly forward from inline with forks. I'm tallish and found that's where I liked them.
As for the split link, as said the gearing is harder then normal, I'm still running mine, I've never had any issues with split links. I find I break chains when joined without a split link, even on my comp bike I use them issue free.
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Probly the most important thing is, have the bike running, turn the fuel off and let it run until it stops.
The little float needle can stick within the seat if left for to long with old full/ oil left inside the carbie.
The other thing is over time, sitting around the clutch can fuse together, make sure the clutch is free before your first ride, if not when you click into gear it'll take off.
Store it on a stand with both wheels are off the ground. Long periods on cold concrete will distort the tyres.
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And then? When you let some air out. Does it stay?
I have no idea how they hold at lower pressure, I run them at 65psi
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I found I had to pump mine up to 65psi for it to fully seat on the bead.
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What polish are you using?
For best results use California customs purple polish. Polish using normal rags and then go over with a micro fibre cloth. It will make it really pop.
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Is the rim 24 or 26
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I'd give them a good clean first.
The bb picture looks cracked, the head tube picture ust looks like a piece if hair.
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Thanks for the kind words guys.
I'm glad you guys like it.
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Hey guys
I thought I'd share my Arcade video with you guys. I only finished it the other day.
Enjoy
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Video?
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As Adam said, if you get hope rotors, use the older style ones. The newer rotors are garbage.
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Nice little video, needs more beard though.
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"Herb has new parts, and therefore questions" -as usual
in Trials Chat
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It makes no difference what style your riding.
If a split pin isn't bent, regardless of its application it will fall out.
Split pins don't need to be bent to 90degress to stop them falling out. They only need to be open up to about the same size as the split pin head.
Personally I like to bend them nicely around the pin.
Split pins have no use on a bicycle regardless of brands. There just a cheap and nasty way of holding things in place.