AlexC

*doesn't* move? How did you go about fitting it? It's between the crank arm and freewheel, as in your pic - surely it has to move with the crankarm as you rotate, it rotates as well? Btw, same cranks that I just got as well ^^ Ahhh ok, that clears it up. So once I tighten it all up and fit it properly, it'll hold its self in place.

Thanks all, though one thing: This will sound very dumb, but from what I can see by briefly putting it on - the bashring will always moves with the cranks, correct? As in where it protects will always move. Or am I missing something small but very important there?

G'Morning Earthlets, I've recently got all the parts to replace/upgrade the drive train of my Zoot, and I decided to get a half (well, 1/3 to be exact) bashring (Echo TR 72 18T). However after seeing it in real life, what the ... this can really provide the protection I need? It covers 6 teeth of the freewheel at a time, surely this isn't enough? There will be many times I'm sure I may slip down a wall and land on the teeth instead, because my cranks were in wrong place for the bash ring to protect it. Am I going mad, or does this in fact give the needed protection?

Bump, just want to check that everything listed there would all work nicely together, or if you'd advise different parts etc

Ok, here is what I've got in mind to do the updates. Anyone see any potential issues? BB: Trialtech ISIS (128mm axle length, Tarty said I'd need 127, but would a 128 suffice?) Chain: KMC K710 Kool, 1/8'' Cranks: Trialtech Sport Forged: 175mm ISIS Freewheel: Tensile (18t) Rear Hub: Trialtech Sport Rear Hub (Fixed 135mm) Sprocket: Echo TR Screw On (12t) Tensioner: 74Kingz Going for 18:12 ratio (18 up front), which should be the same as my 22:16 currently. Obviously spokes for the rear wheel re-build as well. Would it be possible to use my existing bashguard (stock Onza build, no idea what it is), or would I need a new one (or even a bashplate, if would would fit? I prefer them).

Thanks both, that's helped. One thing, I emailed Tarty Bikes about the BB length for an Onza Zoot, and they said 127mm axel is needed - however I can't find one, only 127.5 or 128 etc. Does it matter if it is over? Just to confirm, I'd need a tensioner due to vertical dropout on the frame - so unable to drag the wheel back as on horizontal, correct?

Morning, I know this topic is done to over and over, though searching I couldn't find anything that helped me. I've currently got an Onza Zoot as it comes (no changes done, really) however parts of the drive train are starting to fail/skip, so instead of it resulting in death I've decided I will replace the entire drive train and go single speed this time as well. Currently when actually doing trials, I'll whack it in 4th, which is 22t up front and 16t back - this feels good and is what I'm used to from it, however should I go for this ratio again? I hear people say 18:16 is good, but that sounds like it'll be impossible to pedal and do trials on, nearly 1:1. The front chainring will be replaced anyway, since some of the teeth are bent, so - may as well get it right. This is what I'll be replacing in total, if anyone has any ideas on what to get as well would be greatly appreciated. Any potential issues? BB: Trialtech ISIS (128mm axle length, Tarty said I'd need 127, but would a 128 suffice?) Chain: KMC K710 Kool, 1/8'' Cranks: Trialtech Sport Forged: 175mm ISIS Freewheel: Tensile (18t) Rear Hub: Trialtech Sport Rear Hub (Fixed 135mm) Sprocket: Echo TR Screw On (12t) Tensioner: 74Kingz

Yes it locks when I spin it by hand, and when I ride and coast a long I slow down pretty quickly. Which makes riding a trials bike to places even harder Undo the wheel bolts and tensioners, wiggle the wheel around a bit - then put it back straight and tighten everything back up. It's like an F1 pit stop I can do it so fast now as I have to do it before every ride.

Yes I do have tensioners on, I've checked the cones and they are fine

Hey, Ever since I've had my Onza T-Pro my wheel will _always_ move across to the drive side and ends up touching the pads and the wheel will not even do a complete rotation if you try to spin it. I align the wheel up perfectly and tighten it all up, solid - the bolts are not loose at all, yet even if I just ride up the road and back again my wheel would have moved over and already touching the pads, that's without doing anything! Why is this? It's really annoying

28.6, that's an odd size isn't it?? I do buy second hand stuff, but a stem I am more concered about because if it breaks/snaps ... well you know what'll happen But if you guys think it will be safe to buy a second hand one, then trial-biker-ryan i'll take you up on that offer

To late, I've already sent it back - plus I love how it feels at the moment, so I want something like the stock really

Thanks for the offer, but a stem is something that I would never buy second hand - thanks though =) JT, yeah I knew the barsize wasn't standard so I assumed it was 31.8 - obviously not hehe, that Try All looks good, I think I'll get that.

Hey, Does anyone know what the stock stem is on a Onza T-Pro? I _think_ mine is cracked we can't really tell, but I'd rather be safe than sorry and buy a new one. I did buy the Echo Team Stem from TartyBikes but it's completly the wrong geometry and wrong size bar clamp. If anyone knows of a stem like the stock Onza T-Pro one that would be great!

Ouch, I've done that before but instead I managed to get the bottom of the fork on the wall, that was lucky lol =)