Dan_Trials
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Posts posted by Dan_Trials
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Let me get this straight, you want to replace a set of forks you broke because you didn't fit a crown race with a previously broken set that have weld where the crown race should be?
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You seem to be suggesting that mechanical safety measures lead to carelessness. I would have to agree to disagree on that one, I do not think that there is a measurable correlation. Do you have an example of this to cite?
I'm not targeting mechanical safety measures as such, but just more so this cotton-wool-wrapped society we are heading towards. Helmets, gloves, seat belts, roll cages, eye protection and so on are all good (and I often think necessary) safety precautions as they prevent injury in an unpredictable environment and/or situation. What I am talking about is having to print 'Caution - contents may be hot' on the cup or lid of a hot drink. There are countless other examples like this, unfortunately my mind is blank right now so I hope that one gets my point across. What I am angling at is that more and more these days it seems to be made easier for people to be stupid and get away with it because there is some sort of 'safety measure' in place so they can go along not looking, not thinking, not being self aware and fall in to the habit that they can do that because some one else has put in the effort to allow for their stupidity. Another example could be the misspellings or misuse of 'there, their, they're' etc. If people got beaten with a cane every time they used the wrong one I bet they'd learn a lot quicker! When I were a lad (oh god, showing my age now!) you didn't have to be told common sense things because from an early age you were messing about with fire and explosives and seeing what would burn and what would explode and what hurt the most and what degree of trouble you were in when you got home by going out and doing it and learning from your mistakes.
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Making things so that you can fumble along and stick your fingers any where and not get them chopped off is not really a good thing. It makes people less aware of what they are doing, so they don't have to see things or pay attention to what is going on.
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To Calops.
It was not sarcasm the . button got stuck >.<
Steve has been on about it for months trying to recreate a stronger and better design.
Just a shame majority of trials frames have moved onto Hori drop outs and running snail cams etc. Or else i would of happily had one again.
I have a 74 Kingz which I'm not using just now as it 'appears' to not be tensioning enough, although I replaced the chain and sprocket at the same time as fitting a Rohloff so didn't get to the bottom of the problem. I love how simple they are and no mech hanger to break either! I'm guessing he didn't change the design much then?
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can you tell me the diffrence between brakeless pure trials(like Flipp's) and brakeless street-trials. How different it feels? Maybe there are some interesting things that not so obvious.
Going to have a wild stab in the dark here but I'd say 'pure trials' would be high bottom bracket, long stem etc and 'street trials' would be lower BB and short stem etc.
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I doubt I can but will give it a shot!
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Making the spring longer doesn't increase the spring rate, you would need to fit one of a higher duty. I'm sure something can be rigged up just to test it out though.
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The red line as it's centre to centre which remains constant.
I'm going to throw something into the mix here... Having set up a good few cars for track/rally use, sometimes the driver feels that the brakes don't feel 'good' even though there is plenty of power there. Often a higher duty return spring on the pedal cures this as it takes more effort to apply the brake, but this actually feels better. What I am wondering is, as the new brake requires less effort to apply it maybe the ones who find a lot of lever flex are expecting a certain amount of resistance so they keep pressing the lever until they find this which is actually the lever body flexing.
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A lot of people do tend to want to progress on to the back wheel stuff as soon as possible and the more modern geometries do tend to favour this. While getting about on the back wheel is definitely a big advantage there is still a lot you can do using the front or both wheels more. I think it just depends what you want to do, I seem to have an obsession with spinning and flicking about on the front wheel and I do use the front a lot for getting up stuff where most would just hop up to rear.
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Yeah I see what you are saying. Would generally having to balance more often (compared to not trials riding etc) 'exercise' the inner ear to slow the deterioration or does everything else get better to compensate for it?
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Yes, it says three full stops, not more than one. Plus that explanation has covered just about every possibility in the hope that one of them is right. Anyway, who cares about that, shiny bike parts...
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what bit do you stick it to? if you stick it to the rim and and have drilled rims surely the adhesive will pick up loads of shit?
Exactly what I was thinking but on the other hand rim tape isn't stuck to the rim either. I suppose you could do a loop or two 'sticky side up' then go over it with the same or any other tape to stop it sticking to the tube. Also doing it this way you could use any tape 'that looks cool': personalised packaging tape, chevron tape, reflective tape (such as on emergency/recovery vehicles).
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Dots = sarcasm now? Man I feel old!
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Months of designing? What's different about it that took so long?
Edit: That wasn't meant to sound as bitchy as it does! Genuinely interested in any improvements etc.
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Yeah trials riding uses a lot of muscles that you don't normally use. On the balance thing... my understanding is that balance is an instinct, the more you practice the more instinctive it becomes as you train your extra-sensory perception. Then you can concentrate on moving the bike around instead of having to concentrate on balancing too.
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{pictures of epic mess}
Ooops...
Did you decide to do a few laps before switching it off?!
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Not had experience with the Try-all stuff but bar tape is usually self adhesive and once removed you replace it as the glue often stays behind on the handle bar.
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Niiice!
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It split an old chain and use the circular centres. Done it in the past.
Good idea that!
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Bent tooth? Stiff link? Turn it back ward slowly and see what it does.
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Some where like an RC model shop should have some 5/6mm ID aluminium tube which you could cut down. Or there's these (the cheaper ones are out of stock).
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Just buy new stuff, fit it properly, set it up properly, job done.
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I'm sure you can, don't know if it would help though
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Tartybikes.co.uk, very informative and run by helpful people!
Will This Fork Live For 3 Days?
in Trials Chat
Posted
Because 36 degrees is not the same as 45 degrees.