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marko

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Posts posted by marko

  1. Due to the way the timing works for the finals (punishing detail here) it means that there will at times be multiple riders riding simultaneously (how convenient for spectators/TV/webcasts).

    http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/91/28/7-Tria-E-versionon180315_English.pdf

    "Meanwhile the second rider is riding section number one, the first rider can decide to wait or proceed to section number two."

    "All riders must start in section number one; the riders must do the sections in order."

  2. looks like it cracked below the headset crown while usually I would expect the steerer to crack above.

    That Tensile Ace headset comes with non-split crown. Any defects on the steerer tube from removing the crown using a screwdriver or similar in order to glassblast the fork?

  3. I had a mini master unit upside down on my bike for a bout 2 years. No problem if there is no air captured inside the reservoir. There will be no air inside if you roll the diaphragm. To make 100% sure can fill the two m3 threads with fluid before installing reservoir cap.

    How to - Roll a diaphragm:

    • Like 1
  4. this one? they aren't available in the uk, so i'd doubt anyone will have any experience, i'd be worried about the 144 ratchet points as it's allot of material to take out of the outer ring. and how it's designed to engage. if it's all 12 pawls landing at once it could be amazing as the strain would be nicely distributed

    most freewheels have a 36x toothing with groups of 3 pawls and offset between them

    1x3 pawls=36

    2x3 pawls=72

    3x3 pawls=108

    4x3 pawls=144

    The welding points may be a way to use less tight bearing fit and thus avoid high bearing friction.

  5. Excuse me but did you check the 90 degree hose connector hollow bolt? I hit it once causing it to bend and deform the copper washer. They both had to be replaced to fix leakage. Tightening it more did not help. This may be mistaken for bore cap leakage.

    • Like 1
  6. The lockring loosening/unscrewing is not from pawls/gear drag. Its from the chain pull forces. Freewheels on the cranks mount from the left and the chain pull force runs around the freewheel clockwise (view towards the lockring). That needs right hand threads to avoid loosening. On the rear wheel they mount from right and the chain pull force runs around the fw counter-clockwise (view towards the lockring). Need a left-hand threaded lockring like white ind.

  7. I've built lots of echos and I can tell that a small number of frames had a too wide spacing where the bearings are pressed in the frame. Then the bearings are already pressed all the way in while the axle can slide max. 0,3mm left and right. The bearings still run smooth until you install the cranks so the BB washers push the bearings inner races to the center 0,3mm...

    Have to install 1-3 pcs. 0.1mm washers inside between axle and bearing for compensation.

  8. Try-All sticky (lite) has quite bad spingyness and about the highest rolling ressistance, especially on pavement and when pushing it hard to the ground at pedalups. My big favorite now is Schwalbe Wicked Will Gooey Gluey 2.35. It has very good springyness while offering very low rolling ressistance and perfect grip on all kinds of surfaces.

    post-12833-0-75237300-1357902921_thumb.j

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