marko

No. This would remove too much material... and the cups that are missing too, making it even weaker.

http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/91/28/7-Tria-E-versionon180315_English.pdf "Meanwhile the second rider is riding section number one, the first rider can decide to wait or proceed to section number two." "All riders must start in section number one; the riders must do the sections in order."

pro: narrower than magura hs33

I was riding dual disc brake in a town park lately, rocks on a small hill. Many people there looking for rest and relaxation. It's simply impossible/rude to ride grinded front HS33 in such places.

echo crown bottom side with ~zero camfer will damage all 1-piece steerer tubes I can think of

why off topic? ECHO crown race arn't compatible with most one piece steerer tubes that have a 1...2mm radius. They can't be fully seated and will push in a sharp notch.

echo crown race?

looks like it cracked below the headset crown while usually I would expect the steerer to crack above. That Tensile Ace headset comes with non-split crown. Any defects on the steerer tube from removing the crown using a screwdriver or similar in order to glassblast the fork?

you check your bike for cracks regularly and replace before it falls off...

how can a mechanical disc brake have pistons anyway? That caliper should have twice as much cable pull per given pad movement compared to an avid BB5/7 where only one pad is moving.

I had a mini master unit upside down on my bike for a bout 2 years. No problem if there is no air captured inside the reservoir. There will be no air inside if you roll the diaphragm. To make 100% sure can fill the two m3 threads with fluid before installing reservoir cap. How to - Roll a diaphragm:

tensile uses 1 o-ring and 1 dirt wiper, racing line uses two o-rings. The outer o-ring will pull dirt/abrasive to the inside because it is not formed like a dirt wiper.

must be the first trick in this video where it happened:

most freewheels have a 36x toothing with groups of 3 pawls and offset between them 1x3 pawls=36 2x3 pawls=72 3x3 pawls=108 4x3 pawls=144 The welding points may be a way to use less tight bearing fit and thus avoid high bearing friction.

18-13 with 175mm cranks on my onza zoot. Much better than 18-14 considering it's a street trials bike. 18-12 would be too much for pedal kicking...

it may be 41.5 x 30.2 x 6.5mm 36°/36° (2009...~2011) or 41.8 x 30.2 x 7mm 45°/45° (~2012-2013) unfortunately the chamfers' diameters are never specified...

At the point where it becomes harder to turn just continue unscrewing.

Exactly

Excuse me but did you check the 90 degree hose connector hollow bolt? I hit it once causing it to bend and deform the copper washer. They both had to be replaced to fix leakage. Tightening it more did not help. This may be mistaken for bore cap leakage.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical) -> examples -> bike pedals

The lockring loosening/unscrewing is not from pawls/gear drag. Its from the chain pull forces. Freewheels on the cranks mount from the left and the chain pull force runs around the freewheel clockwise (view towards the lockring). That needs right hand threads to avoid loosening. On the rear wheel they mount from right and the chain pull force runs around the fw counter-clockwise (view towards the lockring). Need a left-hand threaded lockring like white ind.

I've built lots of echos and I can tell that a small number of frames had a too wide spacing where the bearings are pressed in the frame. Then the bearings are already pressed all the way in while the axle can slide max. 0,3mm left and right. The bearings still run smooth until you install the cranks so the BB washers push the bearings inner races to the center 0,3mm... Have to install 1-3 pcs. 0.1mm washers inside between axle and bearing for compensation.

rotors usually have to be mounted in the right direction so that braking force compensates stress from heat expansion. In Trials: almost no heat. I don't think it makes a big difference here.

I would suggest this as accessory

Try-All sticky (lite) has quite bad spingyness and about the highest rolling ressistance, especially on pavement and when pushing it hard to the ground at pedalups. My big favorite now is Schwalbe Wicked Will Gooey Gluey 2.35. It has very good springyness while offering very low rolling ressistance and perfect grip on all kinds of surfaces.