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Sutty22

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Posts posted by Sutty22

  1. I'll be available to ride that weekend. I'll be staying near Telford so can travel to pretty much anywhere in the Midlands. I've been looking forward to getting out and riding some natural while i'm on this crap course. It'll help pass the time. Let me know where you decide to go. Cheers, Sutty

  2. I'm starting a course at Cosford nr Telford next weekend and I'll be there for three weeks. I'm taking my bike so want to get out riding quite often. Where's good around there and does anyone fancy riding sometime? Would prefer natural as I can't be arsed with the chavs and getting moved on by the police all the time. I'm not opposed to travelling either. I hear there are some good natural spots up the west coast where the tarty boys ride.

    Let me know, cheers, Sutty

  3. I pushed my mech up a bit for more wrappage and it works mint, cheers!!

    I spent about four days struggling with my surly, filing it, trying different chains, breaking my 74kingz springs then tried the rohloff, plenty of chain wrap and it was spot on. Have fun riding. Sutty

  4. "my mate described trials as a dying sport"

    I disagree. I think that trials is bigger than it has ever been. When I stopped riding about six years ago you were limited to Ashton,Hawyes,akrigg replica bikes, Megamo and Monty and the odd Handsome Dog/Planet X frame. I've got back into trials again this year after six years out and am amazed by how much the sport has progressed. To be "good" back in the day you could sidehop (yes from two wheels), up, gap,drop and balance. Looking at the sheer size of things people are doing now and the frontwheel moves and stuff I think the sport has improved loads. There are also loads of munufacturers making trials specific equipment and you actually have a good choice of components for the bikes. I'm looking forward to seeing how the riding looks in another five years time if it carries on at this rate.

    Sutty

  5. Rear wheels need to be "dished" due to the offset of the freehub body on the hub. It sounds like yours isn't. I agree with everyone, get it to Tartybikes or LBS and get it sorted properly. For the sake of about £15 it will save loads of hassle.

  6. Anywhere thats sells standard metric bolts should be able to help you out. You'll need some M5 bolts, 45mm long by the look of things (have a quick measure to see what you need). Have a look down your local industrial estate and ask at any engineers, car place etc. They'll probably give you four for free if not they'll cost pence.

    PS, If you get really stuck PM me and I should be able to send you some.

  7. Try a local bike shop for a frame box and perhaps a plastic dropout spacer thing. Get tons of bubble wrap, newspaper, foam etc and make sure it's well packaged.

    Try parcelforce website or parcels2go.co.uk and input the weight and size of the package and they should give you an online quote. Order it and they should come and collect. Make sure it's insured for the correct amount.

    Dead Easy.

    Sutty

  8. After loads of playing around I've finally got my bike pretty much how I want it.

    Got a Caisso frame and stripped and polished it because the paintwork was in

    poor nick. I've polished the front more than the rear, as is obvious from these

    pics. Every time I start polishing it I end up getting bored and going riding instead.

    Also got the Heatsink Bash and done the singlespeed thing too. Really liking how it

    rides, Just need to get out and about more now.

    Spec is as follows:

    Frame- Koxx Caisso

    Forks- Echo Control

    Headset- FSA Pig

    Stem- Echo Control

    Bars- Adamant

    Front Brake- Hope Mono Trial 06 (180mm rotor)

    Rear Brake 07 HS33 with Coustsink CNC Pads and Echo Booster

    Front Wheel- Echo cnc rim on Echo Disc hub

    Rear Wheel- Chris King ISO on Try-All rim

    Drivetrain- Middleburns w/ Heatsink Bash and 18t chainring, 13t Surly on the rear

    Tensioner- Rohloff

    I'm happy with the bike at the moment. Just going to improve things as i need to.

    Things in the pipeline are 203mm rotor, Hope (shorter) Stem and a new chain.

    Thanks for looking guys.

    post-13419-1184751538_thumb.jpg

    post-13419-1184751554_thumb.jpg

    post-13419-1184751567_thumb.jpg

    post-13419-1184751581_thumb.jpg

    post-13419-1184751596_thumb.jpg

  9. What size sprocket is it and what tensioner are you using? I had the exact same problem last week. Basically the chain needs to bed in to the sprocket and when it rides up the teeth it reduces the amount of teeth that are engaged and then skips. I solved the problem by getting more chain wrap around the sprocket so the chain engaged on more teeth. I had to buy a rohloff tensioner but depending on your setup you may be able to up-tension the chain.

  10. Surly cogs need a lot of chain wrap to stop them skipping, maybe the tensioner just won't allow enough of the chian to be in contact with the cog.

    This was the exact problem that caused me days of work. I eventually solved the problem by getting a Rohloff short arm tensioner (cheers for the recommendation Ash Kennard). This gives me loads of chain wrap and it doesn't skip at all now. Got a King QR axle off the same guy and fitted that tonight and also my Coust-sink pads. Well happy with the bike now. It just needs to not break for a couple of months as I've spent loads on it in the last couple of weeks. Thanks to everyone for their advice and help, I was truly tearing my hair out and getting well pissed off but alls well now.

    Cheers, Sutty.

  11. I wouldn't recommend the 74 kingz. As Ash says, they are crap unless you only need a miniscule amount of tension. I've had loads of hassle with mine in the last two days and i'm just going to make my own. There's plenty of threads on it and you can make something that suits you, your bike and your wallet. I basically spent £30 on the 74kingz to find out it wasn't up to the job.

    P.S Just looked at Ash's link and that modified Rohloff looks excellent. Thats exactly what I need to do to get more wrap on my rear sprocket.

  12. I have tried everyhing I can think of and got nowhere. The 74kingz tensioner is utter toss if you need to put anything other than a little tension on your chain. To try and bed my chain and sprocket in I put loads of tension on it but the chain still rides up the teeth as though the pitch of one of them is out (it's definately not climbing up the sides). When it rides up it obviously tightens the chain and snaps the spring on the tensioner. Its destroyed both springs and countless hacksaw blades. After two days I'm absolutely no closer to getting it working, I'm going to build my own tensioner, that actually tensions the chain tomorrow.

    Can't run the tensioner upside down as the chain touches itself at the top, can't take a link out as its not long enough then (by about 2mm). I think that the surly cogs teeth are not deep enough which is why it requires loads of wrap for it to work. How do other sprockets fare like that? Has anyone found one that doesn't require much chain wrap for it to work?

    Also just noticed a crack in the axle of my king hub that i'm certain wasn't there when i started so thats gonna be tons of cash to fix

    Today has just been a s**t day. sorry for ranting but I actually feel much better now

  13. what tensioner is it? if its a rohloff, or something similar with a cage it may well be the tensioner bedding in. i know mine did last week, its fine again now.

    It's a 74kingz. Thats another thing that f***s me off. The tensioner cost me £30 and the sprocket £20 so thats £50 for bits that don't do the job they're supposed to. The sprocket works fine if the chain is hoofing tight but that bends the springs on the tensioner and eventually breaks them. Lose-lose situation. I'm basically redesigning the tensioner myself to get it to hold the chain tight without falling apart. I'm desperate to get out on my bike as we've had torrential rain all week and its been fine today.

    Does anyone know if this skipping when new is just surly sprockets or do they all do it. Basically thinking about biting the bullet and getting a king cog or something just so I can ride my new bike.

    p.s Just tried up-tensioning to get more wrap but it made no difference. 18-13 is quite hard gearing not light.

  14. Tried using my old chain which is well worn but still having the same problem. It's definately not catching the tensioner as I have adjusted it and messed around with it loads. I'm pretty convinced its a problem with the surly sprocket just from looking at it. I'll be pretty annoyed if it is because it cost me about £20 and i'll bet I can't get a refund now its been used. :angry:

  15. I've got the heatsink 18t bash/sprocket, KHE collapse chain, 13t Surly cog on the back and a 74Kingz tensioner. All brand new. On my echo it worked perfectly and I had the tensioner set to up-tension which I liked.

    Built up my new Caisso frame today and had to add a link to the chain due to longer chainstays so had the tensioner set to down-tension. Started riding and the chains skipping every full turn. I investigated further and it seems that the chain pitch is different to that of the surly sprocket. As the chain feeds on to the sprocket every so often a tooth ends up trying to engage where the roller is in the chain. The chain line seems good.

    Is this just the bits that need bedding in together or have I got a problem? Any help would be gratefully received as i'm dying to get out on my new bike. Cheers, Sutty

  16. un52,53,54 are just progressions of the years of the LX square taper b/b, its just a number really. but it relates to the b/b year etc.

    68mm shell 127mm axle.

    Wayne.

    Cool mate, Cheers. Got all the bits ready to stick on the frame now. Changing to singlespeed at the same time. Should have it all ready in time for Fort Bill this weekend. Not competing but gonna go check out the standard of riding and how the comps are set out nowadays.

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