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Borgschulze

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Posts posted by Borgschulze

  1. Yup! :) But it`s closer to a Maxxis 2.5. :) I run the same one on my DH bike. Wicked Will might be another tire to try out...

    Came across this post searching for anyone who has used this tire.

    Picked this tire up for cheap, 2.35 Gooey Gluey Freeride casing, 905 grams.

    I see potential for knob trimming, but it won't make a difference for me, I'm not that good that I require extra grip.

    p5pb5867357.jpg

  2. I spaced my rear cog by putting the wheel on, using no cassette spacers, then backpedalling it till it stopped moving.

    After it floated to it's position, I added the spacers, and job done.

    I can't say the same for BMX cranks. Not to mention most BMX cranks just hammer on and hammer off, kind of archaic.

  3. I have perfect chainline with my 128mm BB and the cog in the middle of my King SS hub.

    With BMX cranks, there is no way I'd be able to run a 22t and have a perfect chainline, the chainring would be too far out for the hub.

    Not sure how the Fourplay is, but that setup, will not work very well at all on my Koxx Coustellier.

  4. I don't know why everybody thinks BMX cranks are heavy.

    My crankset, including cog and bash, weighs in at 710 grams with Tarty weights. $360 roughly.

    Profile arms with a Ti spindle weighs in at 714 grams with Dan's Comp weight. (Do note the lack of Sprocket/Bash) $250 + Sprocket/Bash

    Sooo...?

    My setup is Try-All cranks, Reset Ti BB, Trialtech Cog, and Trialtech Ti Half-Bash.

    I checked a chainring quick... 65 grams no bash, and about $40...

    So the trials setup is about $50-$75 more expensive, but it's also 18t not 23t, and has a bash, and is about 70 grams lighter, won't have issues with the chainring hitting the BB Yoke either.

    EDIT: I forgot about a BB for the Profile setup.. so add another 150 grams? now it's a good amount over 900 grams... almost a half pound.

  5. That rim is already nearly as light as a Try-All H0le, just be happy with the weight of it.

    I'm willing to bet it won't last if you start weakening it, it's probably quite thin compared to other rims since it's so light, double wall, and eyeletted.

  6. It's definitely mental... I have the same issue, and it's not a shoe or pedal issue.. (Wellgo MG-1 with Shimano MP90)

    I think the issue is leaning too far to the inside when you land... because when I don't have that issue usually my body automatically pivots the front wheel over instead of my foot coming off the pedal.

    Another issue I have is not releasing the rear brake... I've been doing totally static sidehops, it's frustrating, I need to learn them from 2 wheels... something I should have done in the beginning instead of going directly from rear wheel sidehops.

  7. If the threads for the Allan bolt go through all the way on the lock-ring... it's a 3/32" I believe.

    If the threads are not passing through all the way.. i.e. you can't see the other end of the bolt.. it's a 2.5mm allan key.

    Do not use the wrong key... it's quite easily stripped, and make sure it's a good quality one... I rounded off a Park Tools 2.5mm because I believe they're not heat treated properly.

  8. My Coust is 21.9 lbs, it used to be nearly 25 lbs... I definitely notice the difference, and it has helped my riding.

    The thing that helped my riding the most, was a good set of brake pads, and a comfortable bar.

  9. Weird that a riding style can have such an impact on a brake.

    My Elixir CR's are just awesome on my DH bike... not a single issue aside from me overheating the rear brake getting stuck behind slower riders.. glazed the pads slightly, sanded them and it's fine.

    I can't say for sure, but I think the Elixir has more locking power than my Hope... I was considering replacing the Hope for a while, but everyone complains about the Elixir leaking on trials bikes, even riders at beginner levels.

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