Borgschulze

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/198537/ This was at the end of my ride today. Not sure why, but it's the only thing I felt like filming. Easy gap, nice smooth "drop" off the curb.

Riding from a few days ago. I haven't ridden in quite some months now, and almost feel like I've never ridden the bike

Just wanted to say, awesome work. I hope you land a killer job with your skills.

Interesting rim, I had a design like that drawn out when I was looking for ideas for my rims. What do you think of the second one though Haha.

Post the 3d file once you're done so people like me can play with it?

Came across this post searching for anyone who has used this tire. Picked this tire up for cheap, 2.35 Gooey Gluey Freeride casing, 905 grams. I see potential for knob trimming, but it won't make a difference for me, I'm not that good that I require extra grip.

That's a Wipperman chain.

Most every BMX has to have the spindle hammered into the BB, and the spindle hammered out to get the crank arm off. Your weight argument still fails though? What BMX cranks are lighter than what trials cranks?

I spaced my rear cog by putting the wheel on, using no cassette spacers, then backpedalling it till it stopped moving. After it floated to it's position, I added the spacers, and job done. I can't say the same for BMX cranks. Not to mention most BMX cranks just hammer on and hammer off, kind of archaic.

If I actually decided to get into Uni trials again, I'd probably have that Koxx hub laced to a Try-All H0le rim.

You're lucky, there is no chance in Hell it would line up on my Coustellier.

I have perfect chainline with my 128mm BB and the cog in the middle of my King SS hub. With BMX cranks, there is no way I'd be able to run a 22t and have a perfect chainline, the chainring would be too far out for the hub. Not sure how the Fourplay is, but that setup, will not work very well at all on my Koxx Coustellier.

My crankset, including cog and bash, weighs in at 710 grams with Tarty weights. $360 roughly. Profile arms with a Ti spindle weighs in at 714 grams with Dan's Comp weight. (Do note the lack of Sprocket/Bash) $250 + Sprocket/Bash Sooo...? My setup is Try-All cranks, Reset Ti BB, Trialtech Cog, and Trialtech Ti Half-Bash. I checked a chainring quick... 65 grams no bash, and about $40... So the trials setup is about $50-$75 more expensive, but it's also 18t not 23t, and has a bash, and is about 70 grams lighter, won't have issues with the chainring hitting the BB Yoke either. EDIT: I forgot about a BB for the Profile setup.. so add another 150 grams? now it's a good amount over 900 grams... almost a half pound.

That rim is already nearly as light as a Try-All H0le, just be happy with the weight of it. I'm willing to bet it won't last if you start weakening it, it's probably quite thin compared to other rims since it's so light, double wall, and eyeletted.

It's definitely mental... I have the same issue, and it's not a shoe or pedal issue.. (Wellgo MG-1 with Shimano MP90) I think the issue is leaning too far to the inside when you land... because when I don't have that issue usually my body automatically pivots the front wheel over instead of my foot coming off the pedal. Another issue I have is not releasing the rear brake... I've been doing totally static sidehops, it's frustrating, I need to learn them from 2 wheels... something I should have done in the beginning instead of going directly from rear wheel sidehops.

If the threads for the Allan bolt go through all the way on the lock-ring... it's a 3/32" I believe. If the threads are not passing through all the way.. i.e. you can't see the other end of the bolt.. it's a 2.5mm allan key. Do not use the wrong key... it's quite easily stripped, and make sure it's a good quality one... I rounded off a Park Tools 2.5mm because I believe they're not heat treated properly.

My Coust is 21.9 lbs, it used to be nearly 25 lbs... I definitely notice the difference, and it has helped my riding. The thing that helped my riding the most, was a good set of brake pads, and a comfortable bar.

I re-used old spokes once just to prove a point. I did a 180 and about 8 broke... Then I kicked a bunch out to make the wheel more "true" so I could roll the bike home... I honestly thought they would last longer than a 180, but sure enough... jump, spin, BANG.

Where can I get that lever blade?

Weird that a riding style can have such an impact on a brake. My Elixir CR's are just awesome on my DH bike... not a single issue aside from me overheating the rear brake getting stuck behind slower riders.. glazed the pads slightly, sanded them and it's fine. I can't say for sure, but I think the Elixir has more locking power than my Hope... I was considering replacing the Hope for a while, but everyone complains about the Elixir leaking on trials bikes, even riders at beginner levels.

BMX Ghetto it, zip tie a seat to your frame...

I'd say it's hard to bunnyhop yes... but it's a dream on the rear wheel with a light pedal stroke. 110x10 Thomson stem with Easton Monkeylite DH bars on my Koxx Coust V1. Simtra ST-1 is way harder to get the front end up in my experience.

That's a Coustellier St.Blaise. The V1 is a "Koxx Coustellier Promodel V1" Black and Orange, Orange Anodised one being the V2. Looks good though.

They always fall for the bait on this forum, not so much on OTN.

Yeah, we have some gnarly hockey bags at my work, like, easily fit 2 people inside in the fetal position, or 3-4 people chopped up into bits.