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Daniel C

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Posts posted by Daniel C

  1. Just to clarify...there is no room to have a thread put on the inside as the bearing is there, the bearing cant be moved else there will be too much stress on the freehub body and nothing to stop it pulling when putting pressure on it...faceplant jobby!

    It has to be cut onto the outside.

    Looks like im gonna have to get a lockring made with some threads in. Will the fact that king is american? affect the thread size?

    that may be a stupid question lol.

  2. Yeh you'll never get the right tap, and if you do it'll cost a fortune.

    A lathe with auto feed is what you need. (Y) (You'll have to find out the exact mesurements of the thread needed first though.

    I'd be tempted to try heat treating and grinding some cutting teeth into a lockring as a makeshift tap, done it with BB shells before and it seemed to work alright.

    muel i must say you are te most helpful person on this forum lol, so if i take the thread size to a local engineering company and tell then the thread size they should be able to do it on a lathe?

  3. hi guys recently i have had a pro2 cut down to fit a mod but now ive been trying everywhere to get it threaded but nowhere seems to have a die big enough :S

    so...

    i have come to the conclusion of welding a sprocket on the back...good or bad idea?

    or does anyone no where i could buy a die from? (same thread as a ckris king lockring)

    anyhelp wold be appreciated :)

  4. Update with pics of it in my frame :)

    me and callum curwood was playing about with it last night and got it into my frame,

    pic :)

    P08-08-09_1942.jpg

    here is what we did to make it fit and work

    1. take the axle, driver and drive side bearing out of the profile, along with the end cap

    2. pt all of that into the pro2 shell leaving the non drive side pro2 bearing in(im guessing the profile bearing will fit)

    3. cut down the non driveside end cap of the pro2, all you need is the little silver bit on the end of the cap.

    put that onto the end of the axle.

    4. and then put it into your frame :)

    The snail cams also work on the inside of the frame :)

    problems(there are always problems lol)

    1. the non drive side snail cam bolt head will have to be filed down about a mm if that, so that the wheel can go more forward as it hits on the end of the hub shell

    2. there is no seal on the non drive side so im guessing if you like to get your bike dirty you will go through bearings lol, but you could probilly get a cover off a non sealed hub.

    Thats about it really, im going to get it built into a wheel asap and ill get testing it :) i shall let you all no how it goes :)

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