steve g
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Posts posted by steve g
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Hi, ive managed to break a bearing whilst trying to remove it from my hub, leaving the outer ring stuck in my hub
does anyone know a good method for removing the bloody thing ?
thanks. (its a t-master)
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have you made sure they are the right way round? like pushing the right way?
as you turn them they push against the bolts in your frame which forces the axle back, tightening the frame, so turn in the direction that moves the axle back (this depends on which way up the cams are )
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what hole do u put it in?
The largest hole in the cam goes over your hub axle
The bolts go in holes in your frame just in front of the drop outs.
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hey, you cant really go wrong with snail cams :
just put the snail cams on your hubs axle, pop it in the drop-outs with the cams inside the frame, put the bolts in finger tight and turn the cams till your chain is tight.
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To stop getting punched, I avoid people who look like they might want to hit me for no reason.
I suppose you could call them punchers, I call them dickheads.
made my day -
The geometry is what makes a bike ride like it does. It's the main thing to consider when choosing a frame. It's actually pretty simple. There's:
*Wheelbase- the measurement from the centre of the rear wheel axle to the centre of the front axle. Short frames are generally considered better for natural, long for street.
*Bottom Bracket rise- imagine a line going from one wheel axle to the other, BB rise is the height of the centre of the BB shell above that imaginary line. Higher bb feels better on the back wheel and improves balance. Lower BB is better for 2 wheel balance and good for static moves.
*Chainstay Length- centre of rear wheel axle to centre of BB shell. Longer is better for static moves but is normally worse on the rear wheel. Shorter is better on the rear wheel and makes the bike feel "flicky".
*Head angle- the angle that your headtube creates with the floor, NO idea how that affects anything. ahaah
that's my view on it anyway.
head angle affects the position of the bars in relation to the front wheel, if its steep then the bars will be further away, and the front wheel closer to the back, and if its slack then the wheelbase will be longer, compared to how far away the bars are.
so slack = short reach to bars, long wheelbase
steep = long reach to bars, short wheelbase
its confusing
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^Fair point ^
So has ANYONE successfully bought something from them recently ?
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So does anyone know if the new guy is any good? I would ring tarty but its on offer at trials-uk and i always felt you would have to be pretty cheeky to take them up on there price match thing :$
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Hi I've seen lots of people warning against buying from trials-uk. Just wondering if anyone has bought anything from them recently, or knows what's going on with them, as they are the only people who have the hub I want, and I don't want my money disappearing.
Thanks.
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If your budget can stretch this far, then its a one stop shop : http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...category_id=502
If not then its still a list and photo of everything you need. -
Dont forget that shoes make a big difference too
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Hey, not sure if you know this but theres a bike shop in exeter that stocks a few trials bikes. Im sure they would be happy to let you test ride a few, see which wheel size you feel comfy with
Im not sure what its called but i know its along the canal.
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Hi, ive been riding for ages and found sidehops impossible, until i got my head around leaning your weight.
So my tip is: once on your rear wheel try to lean your weight over the object whilst keeping the bike straight.
Within a week of figuring this out i could sidehop walls above the top of my headtube, so give it a shot!
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your still being optimistic, it will probably be 'mangled carcass'
dunno if these pics will help dudes made a wee jig.http://ifbikesblog.blogspot.com/2009/07/fo...-disc-tabs.html
cheers for the link, will probably do this, although im sure mine will be a bit less substantial ( block of wood with a couple screws in ? )
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I think i am going to attempt to make it myself, ive got some snapped echo SL's with a disc mount which i could use as a template. Ile post some pics of how it goes, if I can figure out how to post pictures!
Fingers crossed this isn't followed up with a 'my disc broke off and mangled my wheel' thread
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welded a disk mount to my old pashley forks and it was perfect
any advice? where did you get the mount from? thanks
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I wouldn't recmond it. As you need to get it perfect on the forks or your brake wont set up right.
Hi, ive read online that a good way to do it is:
set-up an avid bb5 or bb7 on a set of disc forks, tighten the pad adjusters so the brake is clamped to the rotor, and then remove the wheel and brake from the forks at the same time so that when you fit the wheel (with brake clamped to rotor) into the non-disc forks you can attach the loose disc tab to the brake
spin the wheel so the tab is against the fork and voila... a perfectly positioned disc tab ready to weld.
sounds simple, ish 
i was just wondering if any one knew of problems i need to look out for other than the risk of cooking the pads! thanks
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Hi, i am planning to have a disc mount welded onto my steel Monty 219 ALP forks as a temporary set-up to spread the cost of converting to disc. I know someone who is confident they can weld it on well, was just wondering if anyone else has done this / knows someone who has and has any advice or problems they found.
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Great minds think alike :L i also ride a 20" czar with red parts.
steve.
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Hi, thought i'd let you know that my friend picked up a brand new saracen 2.zero for £150, thats £100 less than the retail just by shopping around.
If you went for something similar it would give you peace of mind about the frame, forks etc being in good nick, and would leave you with plenty of money to get some second hand magura's etc... leaving you with a decent bike to learn on, for not much cash
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hey, when i first started riding i used to ride round my patio in circles for hours, as stupid as it sounds this did actually really help me, i learnt to balance, take tight corners, then stoppie the back round etc... keep it simple! lol
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Hey can I join the "I snapped my echo SL forks club" once I'm a full member LOL
mines snapped 3 days after my 3 month warranty ran out , 
Quite a shame because I really did like these forks........ Ahhh well , I'm using echo urbans now
Mine snapped identically to yours. Im looking at the trialtech ones, more money and extra weight will hopefully equally a longer life !
Any one have anything to say about the trialtechs? or know of any other curved blade forks that are worth a look?
Thanks.
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Just bad luck then buddy! Probably not worth buying another pair of the same forks...
Thanks anyway, and i definatly wont be buying another pair!
The material is the major flaw but then again they are for comp use....join the club mate
Its annoying to see that all the pictures of broken ones on your topic page hve broken in the same place, they clearly have a major weak point where the hss3 mounts are
Removing Broken Bearing
in Trials Chat
Posted
Hey, thanks for the advice, managed to get it out.