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Kieran24

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Everything posted by Kieran24

  1. Sounds like the pistons have seized. Try taking them off and put some oil onto the outside of the piston where the pad clips on and let it sit for a little while. Then, put the pad only the floor and press down on top of the cylinder, with your foot if you have to. Once it's back in (if it goes in) re-bleed the break (bath tub bleed will do) and pump the lever while putting more oil on the outside of the piston, you'll probably have to push it back in by hand a few times.
  2. Not quite sure what you mean, but whether you are doing a water or oil bleed you always undo both bleed bolts on the lever and slave cylinder.
  3. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/Bleeding_Magura_brakes
  4. Looks sweet, reminds me a bit of the old school BMX levers with the colours and minimalist look. I could actually see myself breaking that TPA though, all it would take was for my hand to slip down the grip or to lay my bike up against some railings and it would snap right off. Thing is I see no reason to have that over the SL's TPA design which is more like the Maggies and out of the way.
  5. Yeah, just figured I have a HS33, I was always under the impression that the ones with the old style levers were HS11s but it turns out from a quick google that those are the ones that mount onto v posts. Sorry for the confusion. I managed to replace the bit that commonly snaps with a bolt that uses the same thread. I file a notch into the head of the bolt like the bit that it's replacing has but it still needs some fine tuning which I hope to get done tomorrow. A possible fix to that would be to move the slave cylinders further away from the rim, this link should help.
  6. It's already bled with water, I'm too cheap to go buy a bleeding kit, hence the reason why I'm gonna try DIYing my lever today.
  7. Cheers, that seems to be the problem, I'll have a closer look and let you know. I also saw in the wiki that you can replace the TPA with just a bolt, may give that a go first until I can get to ordering some new stuff. Do you have a picture of a HS11 lever so I can see how far the bit that connects to the piston is sticking out from the TPA?
  8. Okies, I have a HS11 (only rear at the moment till I gets a new lever) and I'm currently running a water bleed. It's working okay and locks fine but to get it to lock fully I have to pull the lever so it's almost touching the grips like there is not enough water in the system. My TPA seems to be busted and does practically nothing so that's no use, and I've re-bleed it to make sure there is no air in the system and I can't get the pads any closer to the rim without them rubbing, any solutions?
  9. Anyone else noticed that he stacks on that stair gap? Anyone with no sense of well being could chuck themselves down those, I'll be impressed when I see him land it.
  10. I had quick look on eBay and found a T-Pro for £200, but it had a few dents in the downtube and a crack developing which I wouldn't be willing to risk. The main reason for me wanting to buy new is because it will be my first bike, if I don't like it I have more chance of getting my money back and if something f**ks up it'll be easier to get it replaced. Did also find this on eBay, seems like a good deal to me as all I'd need to buy is a new lever and even after that'd I'd still be saving a lot of cash. Would this one be okay? I did have a look at it, but I think I'd prefer a mod so I'm pretty much set on that now. I can get the T-Bird on Winstanleys for £270 which I'd most likely be able to stretch to. Indeed I've heard a lot of bad things about them, mainly long delivery times which I experienced first hand when I bought my BMX from there, but something like that I'm willing to put up with when they're usually saving me a fair bit compared to competitors prices.
  11. First, the style of riding I'd like to do would be the gaps and sidehops, and I'm sure I could get the knack for finding some decent lines once I've figured the limits of what I can and can't do. The whole spinning thing doesn't appeal to me one bit, same as when I see people doing 360s on BMX I'd much prefer to see huge gaps and drops (probably due to my underlying interest in trials I suppose). I'd maybe end up riding natural every now and then, but there aren't many suitable places round near where I live, but that may change once I start driving early next year and will be able to travel more. Concerning the whole mod versus stock bit, I could see myself preferring mod, not sure why, but if both sizes would suit me then I guess it's best to go with what I favour most. Do you know with any common faults with the TVee?, as I keep getting mixed messages like 'this bike is awesome, great for beginners ' to 'this bike sucks, it's a piece of shit'.
  12. Hey y'all, just signed up, was gonna leave it 'till after I got a bike but to be honest I'm stumped. Couple problems I'm experiencing, firstly I have very little cash to spend (£240 preferred but could stretch to about £260), and secondly I've never ridden a trials bike before. This leads me onto my first of probably many questions, what would be more suited to me being 5'10", 125 pounds and a beginner, 20" or 24/26"? (bear in mind that I have previous experience riding BMX) With my limited/none existent knowledge of trials I've chosen these two bikes as possibilities: http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/...rials_Bike_2008 http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/...rials_Bike_2007 I'm swaying more towards the Onza as I reckon it would feel more akin to a BMX and easier to get used to, but I'm also tempted by the M.A.D as I could see the lower toptube and lack of seat allowing for more tuckage and just generally being more roomy. I've had a google for the Onza and found some/quite a lot of bad reviews on it, but they never seem to give reasons as to why it's a shit bike, no such luck with the M.A.D, seems to me like a less well known make. So guys, help me choose between those two bikes, suggest any others in my price range or just let me know what type of stuff to look for, cheers.
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