Jarl

nu uh. You can see where the steerer gets narrower, there's a kind of lip, which the old star nut is currently sitting on (sideways ). Needle nose pliers won't shift it, either Pity really, because I like the idea of a headlock system.

So, I pulled the aluminium bit out of my star fangled nut just now. Doh. Also, they're urban forks, which apparently have an 18.3mm inside diameter (i measured 18mm with a crappy ruler, so it seems close enough) because of a very thick aluminium steerer, so standard star nuts are out. There's another star nut slightly lower down from a previous failed attempt, so headlocks are out. Tarty have their small sized star nut for £3, but it's currently on order and I suspect it'd be too big anyway. I don't have a dremel/grinder to grind down a new star nut. Suggestions????

Lol. Sorry to say this, but I'm studying engineering. I understand co-efficients of friction, F=UR, inertia, etc. etc. And unless you can explain it without using long words to contradict yourself in the hope no-one else understands, I remain sceptical

The two screws you can see just above where the cable enters the rear mech are the limit screws. The standard ones normally aren't long enough to successfully limit the rear mech travel, but any longer replacement screws will work- I'm fairly sure they're M3 thread, though they might be M4 (I don't have any callipers with me to check- left them at home!). Ebay is probably a good bet as a source. You can get away with 1 screw, but two is better. The single screw above the 2 limit screws (just next to where the rear mech bolts onto the frame/mech hanger) should be done up as tight as possible for maximum tension when using the rear mech as a tensioning device. This picture is a pretty rubbish depiction of how the limit screws work. The red things are the limit screws, and the black thing is part of the rear mech. As you change gear, the black thing moves from left to right. The further in the limit screws, the less the rear mech can move. What you're aiming to do to use the rear mech as a tensioner is to get both the screws touching the black bit so the rear mech can't move. The stock screws aren't long enough to do this- they'll still leave a little bit of play even when fully in. Longer screws will go in further and push against the black bit to stop it moving. You can just use 1 (longer) screw- the lower limit (L screw) (or the upper limit (H screw) if you have a RR rear mech- if you do, you'll know what that means, if you don't know what that means then ignore everything in these brackets), and rely on spring tension to keep the black bit of the rear mech wedged up against the lower limit screw. However, this isn't as solid as using two screws. To set up the two limit screws to run the mech as a tensioning device, do up the L screw until the rear mech is where you want it, then add half a turn. Now do up the H screw as hard as you can, and add a bit more tension to the L screw (if possible). This should have aligned the rear mech exactly where you want it. If it hasn't, then make a note of which direction it needs to go, slacken off the H screw and adjust the L screw as necessary (clockwise turn of the L screw moves the mech away from the frame/wheel), then torque up the H screw again.

I have nothing against you disagreeing with me, but next time remember that insulting someone then providing no reasoning to support your point of view, despite being specifically asked to, doesn't give much credibility to your argument. Can we try again- What experience with silent and noisy brakes do you have (How long did you ride the DD for?), and why do you think that noise/no noise makes no difference?

Care to provide some reasoning? IMO silent brakes are pretty much a necessity for riding. I find noisy brakes annoying, which means I'm not so relaxed and ride worse. As for sharper, I can't comment on that because I've never tried an HS33.

lol, that's a test. If you can't hop the gate, you're not allowed in

[img]url of picture here[/img] So, for this picture [img=http://news.google.co.uk/images/uk.gif] Remove the tags (the code tags disable the code from working so you can see it), and the picture will appear: Alternatively you can quote my post to see the code I've used.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?source=ig&a...earch&meta= Go wild! Just don't expect it to be very good quality.

Hi, I'm Adam, 18 years old. Currently ride an on-one 456 (see here, though I've got some new brakes since that photo)- am I allowed to say that on this forum? Got introduced to the idea of trials riding on motorbikes, and taken it my mountain bike, where I can now swing the back around 90' (yeah, I know, child's play compared to some of the video's, but it's progress for me!) while track standing, and do a 360 turn in the width of my bike, which I'm very happy with. Looking to get better (working on riding backwards), and so I'm thinking about a proper trials bike (tricky on a student budget so I'll be going second hand I suspect), though there's really quite a lot of choice, as with mountain bikes. I was kind of expecting some of the stuff to transfer over, but it doesn't! If anyone is thinking of getting into mountain biking, ask me anything. In return, I'll take any advice about trials riding you've got . I've been riding for ages, though only seriously for about a year, and only started focussing on trials in the past few months. Currently at uni in bath studying engineering, spent the summer working as a bike mechanic in Halfords. Other interests are kayaking and rock climbing, and thinking of taking up gliding. Thanks