JackZOO!
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Posts posted by JackZOO!
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I saw the trailer and thought, another python owner?! YES!
Great Vid man, keep up the riding, you've got a good street area!
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Are you buying two? Because you posted it twice
I'm not even buying one, It just looked extremely thin!
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My work experience is at ownes cycles and I just can't wait!!! I'm doing it with my best friend and I LOVE bikes! What more could I want!?!?!
Ill keep you guys updated about what's going down at owens!
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Hey forum,
I was just wondering if anyone knew anything about the NEW Echo Urban Isis Bottom bracket? Does anyone own it or have they tested it? Click Here to see it
Tell me what you think of it guys.
Thanks
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Hey forum,
I was just wondering if anyone knew anything about the NEW Echo Urban Isis Bottom bracket? Does anyone own it or have they tested it? Click Here to see it
Tell me what you think of it guys.
Thanks
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Hey Forum,
I'm jack and I ride a 20" ZOO! Python 09! I don't know anyone else with one because it's different from the ZOO! Lynx hah
Well basically, I ride with the Hampshire bike trial club (which is ending soon
... )and I don't ride a lot of street, mainly natural.
My bike has a Echo Sl green rear rim and soon to be the same on the front, with a disc and Hs33 set-up.
My other hobbies are Cars(although I'm 14), Jogging, Product Design and lots of other things!
Thanks Jack
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Hey Forum,
I've started a New youtube channel with all my trials video's on it and I would really appreciate it if you took the time take a look at it, comment and subscribe.
Just click here to get to my channel.
Thanks Again Guys for the support!
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Hey man,
Really nice vid you got there, and thats just a teaser!
Can you tell me when the full video will come out? Thanks
PS.. What year/ make of ZOO! is that? I it a python?
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OK guys, I've pretty much got it sorted I just need the money!
I have found a website which sells the stem and sloping top cap so I'm in business!
Thanks for all your help
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Thanks guys,
But i didn't want either of the ones that you said, the one Im talking about is this one:
It used to be on tarty but it isn't anymore..
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Try-All stems come with the topcap don't they?
Not form Tarty bikes.
Tartybikes doesn't sell it anymore.
I NEED ONE!!!
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Hey forum,
Something really important here!
Tarty bikes have just stop selling there sloping top caps, and I was stupidly close to buying a try-all stem which needs one to fit it on as it does not work with a flat
or monty sloping top cap!!!
<no buying/selling in NMC - be patient until Tom/Danny sort out the validation system!>
Any help would be appreciated!
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Hey forum,
I'm trying to buy a Try-All Nuc Stem for my ZOO! Python. If anyone has any for Sale then please tell me/ email me etc.
I cannot post in the buying/selling section because I have not been vaildated, so It's now here
Thanks JackZOO!
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Hey guys,
Next week (5th to the 9th) I got my work Experiance. I'm especially looking forward to it because I get to work in Owens Cycles!!!
This is a awseme bike shop, and in the morings I will be riding there and back in the evenings. Because I ride trials I think I will fit in well there,
so forum,
what did you do for work experiance??
JackZo0!
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Thanks for the reply,
Well it's good now that your starting to create your own opinion on what bikes you like and what brakes you like. £400 for a starter bike? I would sya thats a very reasonable price for a starter bike and now I can see I was looking a bit over your price range...
So here are some examples of what sort of deals you could be snapping up on ebay! I sold my onza T-Bird for £100 there and it was double hs33!!! (These are based on the fact you dont care what the front brake is, which my signifficantly bring the price down)
BTW Are you sure your looking for a 20"?
Bike: Onza T-Pro
Buy It Now Price:N/A
Bidding: £100
Brake Setup: Double HS33
Bike: Onza T-Pro
Buy It Now Price: £350
Bidding: N/A
Brake Setup: Double Disc
This bike is an example to how much you'll be spending on a echo which is obviously what you want or like the look of! They are very expensive even second hand and in this case it would be cheaper to buy a brand new ECHO than to buy this!!!
Bike: Echo Team
Buy It Now Price: £600
Bidding: £500
Brake Setup: Front Disc Rear HS33
Take a look at each of these a see what you think. When you do some research you can really find some sweet deals! BTW How old are you?
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This years Onzas look AMAZING.
I've got an Onza bird and its fab except for the rear V-brake.
JackZOO - what do I need to do to replace V-brake with the HS33...I had a look on Tarty and there was stuff about break clamps etc. Are the likes of HS33 compatible with standard V-brake mounts.
Cheers
Well basically, you get 3 different types of mounts. Hs33 mounts, which are two paralell threads, V-Brake mounts, which is a single thread and disc mounts which is again, two threaded mounts.
Instead of replacing V-Brakes with hs33's I would suggest BUYING a frame with Hs33 mounts already, as it will be only a tiny bit more expensive, and you will not have the hassle of V-Brake to hs33 converters. It is also hard to setup hs33's with V-brake converters, especially for a starter like you.
HS33 Mounts:
Disc Mounts:
V-Brake Mounts:
I PERSONALLY would recomend the onza comp and if I was you, I would buy this bike. It is cheap, has the double hs33 setup which Ive already told you about and looks pretty nice too.
As you can see from the pictures, Hs33's constist of 4 threaded wholes in the frame. Each "Clamp" has 2 bolts which screw into the frame, and becareful when doing this as you can cross thread easily and have to buy a brand new frame instantly. The V-Brake only has 2 bolts, one on each side of the frame meaning the brake cannot hold aswel or be as powerful inless setup correctly on the same rim. I will not go into detail about double disc inless requested.
EXAMPLE- My friend made a bad mistake which I don't want people like you to make. He bought a saracen trials bike which is alright for starters. It had V-Brake mounts on the forks and frame, but the rest of the bike was stock. As he got better he decided to upgrade to hs33's but then realised the costs. He needed x2 Hs33's costing £120 x1 Frame costing £200+. If he had have bought a frame or bike which came with hs33's or Hs33 mounts then he would not have this extra cost, which would work out to be more than simply buying the correct bike in the first place.
Take a look around and see what you like, and tell me if you want and I can give you feedback on whats what.
By the way, I would not recomend buying anything over £650, and when you pay that sort of money for a starter bike, you might aswel have a ZOO! Lynx or a Echo Lite!!!
THE BIKE I RECOMEND:
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Hey,
For a starter bike, I believe that you should really think about what bike to buy. You should take into account the brake setup and I shall explain it to you in detail.
There are a couple of different brake setups but i will explain a handfull of them to you.
Double Hs33:Double Hs33 is one of the best brake setups. It is good because the brakes hold well of smooth or ground rims(Ground meaning ground down with a disc grinder). Unfortunatlly they are also expensive, at the price of £59.99 from www.tartybikes.co.uk for a single brake. They do not have to be maintained as much as disc brakes and last for a while. Hs33's are also hydrolic rim brakes so they need bleeding once in a while but that is easy enough once you've watched some video guides.
Double Disc: Is a very expensive brake setup. Each brake can cost up to £100 or more! There are 2 different types of disc brakes. Cable disc brakes, like V-Brakes, and hydrolic disc brakes, like hs33's using liquid for the brake to operate. For a starter you should not really buy a frame or bike with double disc, and the brakes have to be mainted often otherwise the preformance will decrease. As you can proabally tell, hydrolic discs are better than cable, but come at a price. A big advantage is that double disc means sharp braking, which is proabally not a good idea for a starter bike.
Front Disc Rear Hs33: Front disc and rear hs33 is proabally the best setup, or most used setup in trials. This is because you get a nice sharp front brake for moves like stopies etc and a grippy rear hs33, which can work even better on a ground rim. I would personally recomend this brake setup, however it is quite costly for both of these brakes. I would say you should upgrade your forks once your used to riding and put a nice sharp responsive disc on the front.
Double V-Brake: Double V-Brake is the cheapest setup, and can be one of the best if setup correctly. I would also recommend this to any starter. They brakes can again be nice and sharp of ground or smooth rims but also can be fearthed easily. However, If you buy a frame with V-Brake mounts, and you want to upgrade to hs33's, then you need to buy a new frame. This is one disadvantage of V-Brakes so it is important you make the right choice first time.
Here are a few bikes I would recomend that you condiser buying. Each one has the brake setups I was talking about.
Bike:Onza Rip
Price:£319.99
Brake Setup:Double V-Brake
Bike:Onza Pro
Price:£489.00
Brake Setup:Double Disc
Bike:Onza Comp I recomend This bike!
Price:£529.99
Brake Setup:Double Hs33
Bike:Onza Blade
Price:£589.00
Brake Setup:Disc Front, Hs33 Rear
I hope this information helps you and aids you to make your choice about brakes
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Hey,
I think that you should learn to balance before anything else (besides riding the bike!) becuase balance is the key to everything. Once you can track stand for 30 seconds to a minute then you should move on to tricks and practice moves like swinging the front or back round and backhopping. These moves will take time to learn but it will be worth it in the long run.
What bike do you have?
How long have you been riding for now?
If you need any help just send me a message or just reply to this
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Obviously there's price differences - but each can be more expensive than the other if you get the best there is. E.g. Vees can be the cheapest, but you could also set up Avid Ultimate arms and lever with expensive cables, pads and CNC backings, and adaptors if you have a 4bolt frame... They can get VERY expensive.
Maguras: Quite often an on-off brake, very little modulation. Great for TGS/natural riding, but anything that wants feathering brakes, like manuals etc. will often suffer from a break like this. If you bleed them with water, they can freeze in the winter, which can pop hoses - but mix the water with a bit of anti-freeze and it won't.
Good: Very powerful - will stop you dead. Very standardised, so if it brakes mid-ride, someone there might have spair bits. Once set up right - it'll not change untill the pads wear down - so you can put faith in it working. Have a TPA, so if you want a small adjustment, you don't need to move it about. Quick to bed in to a rim.
Bad: Hoses can pop, crossovers break, need bleeding every so often, can be irritating to set up.
Vees: Don't listen to anyone who says Vees aren't as good as hydraulics. A well set up vee can happily outperform a HS33 - the trouble lies in most people not being able to set them up correctly. Usually on streety bikes. Still got good bite and hold, but more easily feathered, and so better for manuals etc. Quite light, but very few frames come with vee mounts, so adaptors are needed.
Good: Easier to feather. Just as powerful as maguras. Barrel adjuster on lever for small adjustments. Very light on bikes with vee mounts. Spare cables can be gotten from the likes of Tesco, Wilko's, halfords, and any bike shop, if it breaks mid-ride. Quick to bed in to a rim.
Bad: Most people can't set them up well enough for trials use. Not many vee specific pads, so you almost always have to glue material in to backings. Very few frames have mounts, so have to use adaptors.
At this point, I feel I should do pro's/con's of grinds/smooth/tarred rims.
Smooth: Left as you got it from the factory.
Good: Can perform very well - and often silently, which means no annoying wails.
Bad: Almost invariably turns in to a crap break once it gets even a little wet. Sometimes just not very good in general. Have to keep the rim clean.
Tar: Rub some roofing/roadside tar over the breaking surface of the rim.
Good: With the right amount - once you pull the lever, that rim is going nowhere. A bit better in the wet than smooth.
Bad: Pads can stick to the rim, which can prove very dangerous. Repeated application of tar makes it build up - too thick a layer of tar will kill any performance gain, so has to be cleaned off with solvents occasionally. God-awful noise acompanies you whereever you ride. Looks poo
Grind: Run an angle grinder over the breaking surface of your rim to roughen it up.
Good: Best protection against wet weather available. Often better stopping power than other methods in the dry, too.
Bad: When a grind wears down, you re-grind - too many of these makes the rim weak. Wears pads down quicker than smooth/tar.
Back to breaks...
Disks: Excellent modulation and excellent power. Hydraulics and mechanical ones are available, and differ only in feel if you set them up right.
Good: Very powerful, and all the modulation you could want. Feel very nice when you're used to them. Silent. Actually get BETTER in the wet.
Bad: Rotors bend rather easily, which is usually a ride-killer.
I won't mention all the combinations... that'd take forever.
Most people use HS33 on the rear, disk on front. Rear magura offers very good bite and hold, though not much modulation. You want to be able to trust your rear brake - it's most important. Front disk modulates, but also has lots of power to lock up. Rotors can bend easily, but on the front they usually stay out of the way. Very good combination - which is why so many people use it.
Dual HS33's means you get all the snappyness, but having no modulation on the front end can make things difficult. Usually used by comp riders who know very well how much power to put in to what.
Dual disk - in my opinion - is the way to go. You get all the locking up power, as well as all the modulation - at the expense of risk. I went dual disk for two rides, and bent my rotor. If you go to the left on anything, rotors are highly suspect to bending. If you go to the right - or just never fall off, I would say give this a go. It's not for everyone though - when people get too used to a magura on the back, a disk can feel weird. Another benefit of dual disk is that your wheels can get as buckled as your frame will allow, and you can still ride.
Vees are kind of like disks crossed with maguras... All the power, but it's on the rim so you don't worry about bending rotors. Favourable for people who like techy stuff, 'cause feathering is so much easier/more effective - though a vee can be set up to be horrendously snappy. They can take Damon Watson's down to fronts - so they deffinately have the power there.
Now - it's up to you really, it depends what you're after in a break, and how you ride. Edit: If you decide to get a new frame with dual disk in mind - I'd SERIOUSLY recommend getting one with rim brake mounts, too. If you find you don't like it - you have to sell the frame on/swap it.
Think that's about it.
WOW! You must have taken ages to write this up! thanks man! this is gold for noobs!
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Hey, thanks for the fast reply!
The chainstay measurement is off though lol. This is measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the centre of the rear axle bolt. Should be around 360-375mm. What does it come out at on your Python? Cheers!Sorry about that,
the NEW chainstay measurement is 36.5cm (365mm)
Hope this helps
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Hey forum,
just wanted to know as many costs and benefits of having either double disc, double hs33 or disc front and hs33 rear?
btw i will be upgrading to a frame with double disc if i am convinced, i currently ride natural and street trials and prefer shorter frames...
I am hoping to ride more street trials and the hbtc (hampshire bike trial club) which provides natural comps is ending this year so i will be riding crates/ street MAINLY
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Nice bike. If its not too much trouble, could you measure the wheelbase/chainstay length and also the axle to crown height of your forks for me please, very interested to know the real world geo measurements of these frames! Cheers
Thanks for commenting, thought i would get back to you as fast as possible.
Wheelbase lengh: 102cm (1200mm)
Chainstay lengh: 13.5cm (135mm)
Axle to the bottom of headtube: 40cm (400mm)
Axle to the top of headtube: 49.5cm (495mm)
Tell me if i measured anything wrong?
or if you would like more mearsurements, im happy to help. I also do some more pics later on this post with my new bars
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hey, whats up guys?
I just wanted to show everyone my ZOO! Python frame (Now built up to a full sec bike[second pic])
This is a OLD photo but it's come a long way. But it's a short frame!
Got a nice echo sl rim on the rear and hopeing to get one on the front
. echo tr bars . tensile 96 click freewheel??? 
hs33 white rear . shimano something or other front Thank my dad for helping my build it/ buy it.
(dont have a pic with my new bars so sorry)
Got a youtube channel too
PLEASE subscribe!!!http://www.youtube.com/user/jackZ0o
Thanks
here's the pics!
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Dont worry guys! Sorted, after a week or so the hair spray dryed, and now
they wont come off
Work Experience!
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
Ok guys,
It's been an awseme week and it's my last day!
I didn't know how tired I would get!!! We fixed punchers, built new bikes(Some of the 2011 Uniteds) and just rode our bikes out side!
It was so awseme, Just want a jobb like that!