Herr.Wolfkatze

Was long and hard but I finally ended up deciding Stock suited my city slicker nature, and streety style of trials. No naturals to ride around here, and no car to take a mod around long distances to the best trials spots. Also coming from a dirt jump bike, it'll just be a nicer transition for me. Feedback is always welcomed

Well i live deep within the City so ill pretty much be riding strictly street, being an urban lad its also the look, style and feel of things i prefer too. Would a riders weight and height come into question when choosing a frame geo? I'm about 5'10" 9.5 stone (58kg) With a 32" inside leg I really enjoy riding around on my P.3 performing more streety trials moves and the geo on it really does suit me just fine. Could do with a higher BB but its a rock solid frame so a little scrape here n there does nout to it, and im a pretty light rider so the weight of it bugs me none. Alot of the hardcore riders dissaprove of it though, so i MAY be about ready to make the jump to a new frame. Any thoughts on my bike? Should i stick with the frame or change it? Summary is; Thus far, no problems riding it for strictly urban trials, little frame with pretty nice Geo and suits me lovely, and its very unlikely ill be riding ANY natural trials (Oh, and what on the quality if Marino frames? Would a Marino built Inspired replica be anywhere near the quality of the real deal?)

I like this Thread I too am clueless about the correct Geometry of a trials bike, and after ALOT of push from the other riders on forum, I may just be about ready to take the jump from my belovedTrials modded P.3 to a purpose built frame, and I've taken a quick peek at Marino frames too. I know the Inspired frames and 24UK frames are pretty much out of the question unless I want to wait until august, so would it be possible to make a Marino frame as an exact replica? AKA: Bump

I'd need to count the teeth on the front chainring again but what I do know is that it's quite enormous So I reckon I could get a smaller chainring and lose the top 3. My chain is pretty tight right now but I could do with losing another link out of it, it's not quite as tense as i'd like it although I originally thought I had it set up right. I'll give the gears another tweak when my new shifter arrives and see.

I'm getting a hope pro 2 rear hub so i'm going to split my rear cassette into a 6 speed. The gear ratio right now can be pretty tough pedalling in the higher gears when I just want to cruise around, so I don't know whether to take the 3 largest cogs off, and get a smaller chainring to compensate for the loss of the low gear range, or just lose the 3 smaller cogs and keep the large chain ring. When i'm cruising around I like to pick up a bit of speed so I spend alot of time on the 7th cog. If I lost the smaller 3 i'd be forced to hang around in 6th which isn't that big a deal to me. Though the idea of a smaller chain ring is also appealing. Any ideas?

Nifty, i'll be sure to do that when I get my new hubs then If I need any more help i'll be sure to PM you. Cheers mate, and thanks everyone else for the advice too!

Abso-f'in-lutely perfect mate. Just the kinda thing I need to return my bike to its glorious shine. It still turns heads though, can't get on a train without a comment being made I'll get pics up the second her retro-fit is over.

The H and the L screws yes? For the gear range.... I'll probably need to look that up or have it done in the shop. Do I need to keep the largest and smallest cog on the cassette owing to any kind of special attatchment it might have? Or can I use any 6 in any order I want (Provided it actually makes sense to have them in that order)

Absolute legend.. Thanks very much! I also have 9spd shifters and rear mech, i'm assuming i'd just run through all the gears on them like normal and remember to stop at 6 instead of over shifting the bike?

I don't have a 6 speed cassette I have a 9 speed one Where can I get a good 6 speed cassette?

I want to buy a new rear free-hub but I don't quite understand what "6 speed free hub" means. Does that mean the gears are somehow contained inside the hub and I can't put a cassette on it? Or can I use it just like normal with a standard rear mech.

It's not a huge amount, just a little build-up around my headset and steerer, does anybody have any old-age secrets of how to obliterate it?

Thats really weird... My bike has a Magura 4 bolt mount AND a Vee 2 bolt mount on the legs of the forks.. No adaptor is needed, kinda like having vee mounts and IS mounts, except I have the choice of Maggie instead. That being said should I still put the mag on the front?

Well nuts.. I didn't even know that, although I've never tried to find them. Just one more reason I won't be riding mod any time soon them

It just gets more and more complicated!!

Hahaha that's ironic. Made in britain, can't purchase them from britain, gotta get them from australia and then wait for your own goods to be returned to you Do you know if the reds respond better than the whites on a smooth rim?

If anyone else would like them and doesn't mind internationally ordering, the CRM/CRV pads in ALL colours are available much cheaper here: http://midwestbiketrials.com/store/index.p...mp;cPath=2_7_22

http://www.expressivebikes.com/?page_id=7 <-- These ones right here? Are they better for smooth rims than the white pads? Because if they are then I'll GLADLY order them from Australia and weight infinity years for them

bump~

*whistle~~* Mate thats a serious set up you've got planned right there, f'in expensive too, I wish I could justify using my student loans on my bike... Alas, i'll graduate soon and be a rich trials riding pathologist.. Right. Anyway I personally prefer stock because I like to ride urban, I like the big rims and the larger frame and all the benefits of having a bigger bike. I also read somewhere it's easier to balance the nose/rear on larger wheels. If you do go with mod though, the only thing i'd comment on is that the Try-All Stiky front tyre is excellent, the rear however is not so great, it's not got very good puncture resistance. Unless you're adamant on having matching tyres, a Maxxis Minion/Hi-Roller or a Continental Rubber Queen/Der Kaiser would be a better choice.

Perfect, do you know anything about those Heatsink Reds in the CNC V-Backings? They're there on the Heatsink website but little information on them, I looked on some other sites and apparently they work quite well in the wet too. Won't be riding in it really but it's a thought.

Bump~~

The TNN Engineering CRM pads? Oh I see.. But what are Plaz Blues? Do Heatsinks work the best for smooth rims?

Mnhhrr... I think it's time for me to re-assign the intended purpose of this thread. Moment please!

Hmm, the CRM's seem to be designed for use without grinds/tar too.. and on the Plazmatic website they mention something about a brand new pad coming out soon that's supposed to be awesome, and in the picture the colour of the pads were blue... Although this is dated 2005 and after numerous searches i've still come up with nout, surely it's not taking 4 years to finish product testing and you're one of the lucky testers? Lol *sigh~*