tkD
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Posts posted by tkD
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Was born in Bradistan, If I was still about I'd be up for
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re-post lol
and it's like 2 threads down xD
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I know mixed opinions on the bench but. Bench Tech! I love it when people mess about on benches, just something you know everyone has in their own town
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I could do with one too, but I'm not trying any big stuff at the moment just practising balance and pedal kicks so I should be fine, but I'll definitely get one when I progress to gaps and so on.
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so was i
Dependant on forks..
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when i had a mission prod it didn't have any disc mounts just four bolts so you may have to go for maggys anyway. this was a few years ago though so they may have changed
He's talking about front brake fella
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Mines nearly 3years old and is still running mint, N00b.
He's not a noob, he's going on what he's heard. Good for your freewheel....
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It has been mentioned, but to reiterate it sounds like you have started to round the taper on the crank (mostly happens with the left hand crank arm and on square taper cranks) Once you noticed that it was loose I presume there was a small amount of riding involved (i.e to get home / pub / bke shop etc...) this starts the process of rounding the taper on the cranks meaning the hole is now larger than the male counter part on the bottom bracket spindle which will now create play between the two. So, when you go to crank there will a little movement before the crank engages the spindle which will start to further wear out your cranks, so the problem will persist.
You tend not to wear out your BB as it is steel where most cranks are made from softer Aluminium. There is no way to solve this other than buying new cranks. Regardless how tight you torque that bolt up it will still work loose as there is that bit of play, so overtightening is never going to help. You should never over tighten anyway there are reccomended torque levels as this is all that is required, if you needed to tighten a bolt until it was no longer coming out it would seem that there is a design flaw somewhere aling the line.
With this in mind, I would suggest that you change your cranks, and whilst you are at, you might as well upgrade to ISIS drive, this eliminates the flat surfaces found on the square taper and the splined engagement will create a better pick-up, and your LH crank arm will not come loose.
With any new bike you do need to periodically check the components, a new bike has never been rideen it has only been assembled by manufacturer and bike shop employee using a workstand, so during its first few items it is very common that bolts will work there way loose and cabling will stretch and readjusting simply down to vibrtaion and cables bedding in. This is why bike shops offer an after sales service after approximetley 6 weeks times.
Good luck on the crank shopping.
REGARDS
CALLUM
I don't have the money for new cranks, and the taper isn't round.
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Yea great selection replacing the steel parts on the comp is really important i think as it makes it, as you say front heavy.
forks -steel
handlebars,stem- steel
I'm not sure what to change the forks too though, I know stem and bars are preference =/
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Yea same not sure why tarty has it at that price.
But I bought all my new party of tarty, They can't be beaten on parts.
586, seemed alot :/ But Tarty is way forward with parts you say?
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To be honest, for £65, its not really a bad deal lol! Yeah as I said in the other post, people are fond of Avid bb5's and bb7's, I wouldn't know from experience to be fair, but people seem to like them. Or get dual maggies as it has bolts for them.
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Oh okays, just a matter of recognition? They are rather petty bikes
but I suppose that's not a lot coming from me after saying I can't tell what they are Look is everything lol! I like my Onza, but its rather front end heavy I must admit. But I got it 100 cheaper than Tarty price so
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Yes, most would agree. If you are thinking of going to ISIS you would also need cranks to suit.
How are they better? And eurgh, more money, already paid stupid amount for the bike
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How are you able to tell what frame it is?
Shape is usually a good give away. I've got the same onza
need to change my forks, but not a clue what too =/ -
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Searching usually comes up with far too many results to check them all though. Anyway then, seeing as my topic is now moot is there anything I should do when I pick up my new bike on sunday. It's not actually new, I got it second hand off ebay. I dunno if it's all the standard original bike buuut this is what it is, mission prodigy bike.
Is there any recurring problems for this make, and also is there something necessary to change on it either? It has no front brake, but that's easily sorted...disc brake I assume-suggestions again?
Help appreciated
Most people are fans of Avid BB7's? or BB5's? So I wouldn't actually know, but I'm sure if you asked people would let you know mate, I'm really not one for disk brakes
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I thought that was really good
I don't understand the suspension with that style of riding, it must be rather difficult to get good response from the front end. Enjoyed it though -
+1 I agree to be honist but then when your a new member you don't know where to look to find out and there won't be as many topics in the NMC.
But you are right there are to many of them, I don't think people use the serch enough.
Yeah seems that way, but always check =/
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What grease would you suggest? As mine are the same.
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Does anyone no what forks I should get for my Onza T-Comp?
I have been told mine are heavy and so it is affecting my gaping.
Thanks Lewis
I've got the same bike, I was thinking the front end is rather heavy, look at some new bars also. My friends saracen is easier to kick up than my Onza =/ and thats a 26" DJ bike.
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Well iv got an Onza T-Comp and have had it as a first bike its very strong and rebiable.
The only problem is that the back brake isn't very good so you would need to grind the rim or get new pads.
Overall though the bike is very good and I would recomend it as its cheap aswell.
CHEAP? Are you nuts?
cheap is like 200 quid, not 589 =/ I know in comparison its cheaper than some but. -
That's roughly along the lines of what I was getting at, only I was thinking more about the torsional rigidity of the steel versus the torque applied to it. Like I said, sorry to be so anal, but when you build rally cars untill 2am it kind of becomes inset
ISIS is a form of bottom bracket and crank arm. Rather than a square taper it uses a splined axle and corresponding crank arm bore. Compare these to your bottom bracket.
And these are better?
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R8 and a 325 from selling trials stuff? ;o
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theres no need for this. would you like it i was to post all your details up no didnt think so.
To be fair, if he's conned people out of pocket. Then I don't see the issue.
Onza Blade
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
Might well be, but everyone knows they're as ugly as hell.