Kenny--Trials
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Posts posted by Kenny--Trials
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it is rh thread on rh side right?
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i didnt even know they sold them separately? But the first concern that comes into my head is then how it would weld up as the welds would be stronger if they were made from the exact same material
Bb threads are 1.37"x24tpi. Don't forget the drive side is left hand thread. But as Dave says, Spanish would be better. If you get the dimensions any decent tool shop could knock you one up, it's just a stepped tube effectively
oh i could probably make it up at work but i have no idea how they fit in haha
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Try and get hold of a spanish BB with press in bearings?
I had thought of that but the inside diameter would have to be dead perfect so it wouldnt wobble around or wouldnt fit at all. might be easier though
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Cheers man. The bottom bracket is the main thing thats confusing me because i will have to put threads in myself so i need to allow for the thread depth when im tapping it but does that 33.5 include the thread depth? I read somewhere that its 24tpi but im not too sure how that relates to the depth if at all.
I think im going to try and use a 1"1/2 (39mm) tube for the downtube because otherwise it will be a pain to fit and get a nice weld on it
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I meant more for this
Ahh, all i meant by that is: is the offset perpendicular to the axel to crown length or does it run parallel with the wheel base but im pretty sure its perpendicular
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Try having a play about on bikecad, that'll help your understanding of the geo dimensions a bit
Thats a really good site but ive actually already decided on the geo, i just need the few lat bits of information so i can piece it all together and use it as and engineering drawing
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Right so, i haven had a trials bike in a while now (about 2 years) and since i have started a job doing aluminum/steel fabrication so naturally i want to build my own frame
Im currently trying to draw up the frame design on solidworks 3d cad so i can make a jig from that and then get to putting it all together but just the cad drawings are proving impossible because i dont have anything to measure off. The tartybikes videos do help explain where the dimensions are from/to but im having trouble with things like:
- the internal size of the head tube
- bottom bracket cup length, thread size and internal diameter (without thread depth)
- typical tube diameters for top tube, bottom tube, chainstays, ect
everything else i could probably do, any help/advise would be greatly appreceated
thanks
edit: if anyone knows how the offset on forks work that would be handy too
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Umm what... That's not gonna do anything pfft.
Like saying I put a sticker on the frame to fix a snap.
The stem wasnt completely broken and it was like an hour into a ride yesterday. I just didnt want the whole thing to go when i did a gap or something. Even if it didnt salvage my face, i wanted to save my hose and cable because i hate setting up brakes...
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I put tie wraps, elastic bands and fragile tape around the clamp on my stem because it is cracked in 2 places so I got scared of cracking my face.
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Anyone have a trampoline they are up for donating so we can have tramp bike next year. Other wise i will keep on searching ebay for a cheap one.
No, just dig the trampoline into the floor next to the box section and see who can get the highest from going off the tallest box
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I found that BB7s really depend on what disc you are running. Ive had 4 different discs (with the same sintered pads) on the front and only 2 of them really worked well. Ive had the 160 mm avid one but i didnt think much of that, a 160mm echo one which worked well after it had finally bedded in, a 160mm hope trial rotor which was even worse than the avid and im now running a 180mm aztec wave which is the best rotor ive had by a long shot.
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Not doing anything wrong really. Everyone gaps with different methods, even if the differences are small.
How long have you been riding? Gaps come with practice, being able to preload more, explosive release out of the preload, pinching off the corner of your takeoff....
You'll probably find that If you keep at it, your distance will increase with pracitce.
Maybe try taking off at an angle. Doing this will mean that you can throw your body further forward on take off, giving you that tad more umph to get across.
Your doing well! Just practice and patience
Ive been riding about 2 1/2 years now but ive been able to gap the same distance for a while. Thanks for the advice
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Im struggling to go bigger with my gaps and was wondering if i was doing anything wrong?
Heres the video of my biggest so far...
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eBay ?
Couldnt find anything
Wanted to see if i could do it myself first to save some money first..
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Careful, thats just a frame?
Yeah just realised that then changed it
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Have a look on pink bike, within 30 seconds i found this: http://www.pinkbike....uysell/1073821/. Not too bad for £65
Edit: this ones probably more worth its money http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6152986/
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So the other day my bearings in my pedals locked up, unwound itself, and me putting weight on it threaded the bugger. So does anyone have any or know where to get M15 sized helicoil inserts or the whole kit?
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Don't know why everyone knocks them, make you ride like flipp
Fixed.
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They are the same material but I think how they're cut into backings changes the way they work.
Coust are stuck flat with I think 10mm of material in plastic backings, you can see them compress when you brake and obviously there's a lot of flex.
Coustainks are sunk into metal backings with less material, less "squish", less flex etc.
I think Coust material needs to be squished into the rim rather than just pushed like most other pads, obviously all pads with squash a bit but with the 10mm of material on cousts and the fact they're quite soft anyway probably squashes down more.
Obviously disregard my entire post if you have anything to prove otherwise
This makes sense
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Oh god not this again.
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Although the pad retention method coustellier uses isnt one I'd trust, which is the sole reason I choose not to run them,
Would sooner buy the same material cut by Steve @ Heatsink Bikes that is recessed into the plastic backings as apposed to being stuck flat onto the backing.
I have never understood why the original cousts have always preformed better than steves? In theory steves should work better because of the alu backings which would mean more power, shouldnt it?
But I did have the coust sinks and am now running the original cousts and there is a considerable difference.
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surely it cant be photo shopped because the shadowing is perfect...
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"Hi i just got this bike for christmas today and when i pull my brakes they just make a massive squeak for how long i pull them for! how can i stop the squeaking noises?" made me laugh because of a personal experience with one of my mates. He asked the same question at halfords, and halfords being halfords told him to put wd40 on his rims.
It stopped the squeek but didnt stop him when going down a hill...
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I would have liked it more if you did a few lines instead of single gaps/sidehops but apart from that, decent vid. You'll have to ride Norwich sometime
Building frame
in Trials Chat
Posted
i thought it was normal thread on the right so that with each pedal stroke it couldnt come undone both sides?