joaovidal12
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Posts posted by joaovidal12
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5 hours ago, Greetings said:
It has to be applied with thinners because that will make it stick to the rim. Applying it like tar won't get good results as the rosin crumbles on contact with the rim and doesn't stick.
If you can't get hold of some nitro, use acetone. Just as good.
The bite on rosin is incredible and it retains a very responsive brake similar to that on a clean sharp grind.
And alcohol vs acetone? They are two different functional groups (C-OH and C=O) so the results could be different from a chemistry point of view.
Cetone will evaporate more quickly tough. -
The question that I have is:
Applying it in the dissolved form will increase effectiveness ?
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2 minutes ago, ooo said:
Yes it should do. But you need to check that your source is pretty pure, like old style nail varnish remover has acetone in it; but it may also have other compounds that don't evaporate.
I can get pure acetone in my lab. No big deal.
I will try that in the second round. -
Just now, ooo said:
Mostly acetone (organic name propanone) I think.
So, after dissolving with that, acetone will evaporate and leave the rosin in the rim?
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7 minutes ago, isitafox said:
I'm sure I read that you need to melt it and rub it on to the rim with a cloth?
Read that too.
I also read that you could get a bit of a chemistry into it and then apply as a liquid.
On 13/09/2014 at 0:12 PM, Greetings said:Been using this for years. You can dissolve it in nitro thinner and carry a small bottle around with you. Better even if you find a small applicator like for eye drops but which the thinner will not dissolve. Few drops on the rim, ride around dragging brake - done.
Could not understand what the nitro thinner was.
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Greetings!
I have a ground rim, read much about tar and violin rosin, couldnt get my hands on tar so I picked a violin rosin bar for 3€.
I just want to improve the rear brake little more.
My setup: Echo double wall rim (I guess it is) + TNN ADM pads + TNN clamps and integrated booster + 2004 Magura HS33 Race Line
First impressions:
- It is brittle AF ! If you drop it seems like it will shatter into a million pieces ...
- It is not very sticky, gets into powder once rubbed in the rims.
- After a few stops it gets embedded in the grooves of the rim, the rest disapears.
- Performance in a garage run: Louder, more bite, a bit better hold.
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I can feel my money already boucing ...
Please be good! -
21 hours ago, bike_dummie said:
Hi,
Always loved his video and i cannot remember it for the life of me.
Its a Russian guy on a blue GU, older video mainly TGS.
Thanks Adam.
Pavel Borisevich ?
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Just finished the parts assembly:
- Trialtech Riser bars
- Trialtech Sport fork (uncut)
- Avid HS1 180mm disk
- TNN ADMs
- Jitsie stem 150mmx35º
- Trialtech 14T rear sprocket
Can a half-link be used? I think there's lilttle space for it.
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My first grind:
Some zones are fine, others not so great.
So from my experience:
Dont skip the numer 1 rule - use a brand new disk. Mine was a bit used, And since i was afraid of damaging the rim I used shallow angle resulting in shallow grind, in the beginning almost polishing the rim.
Seems harder to revive an old grind than doing it on a fresh rim.
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I need to grind my rim and I had a 5min experience using an angle grinder to cut a metal sheet once.
I will take the wheel and the tire, because noobiness.
I have read and watched tutorials, like the TNN,Tarty and some others.
Can you give me some tips for the procedure?
Metal grinding or cutting disk?
How to make sure I dont cut the rim?
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2 hours ago, AndyT said:
I run a star nut (smallest my lbs had, not as small as tarty recommends) banged down into my TT fork... Ran the top cap for years with no problems, never coming remotely loose. Do prefer the star nut however- it feels stronger/more solid than the top cap, much like how a TT fork feels stronger than an echo urban (I run both right now on different bikes).
Also run a half link right now for the first time, just came with my kmc 610 so I run it... This is on a normal tensioned chain with perfect chain line and a 2 pulley spring tensioner. Not sure about your bike, Echos seem to get pissy when you mess with the gearing they are made for.
I just went to 1 less tooth in the back as well, it definitely changes how the bike rides- specifically gaps and short run up timings. Feels great though...
Definitely get get the high rise bars, they are the shit.
Thanks for the input.
I hope it doesnt get too pissy on 18:14, with integrated chain tensioners and 116mm spacing.
Points taken from all of you:
I will get a TT sport, I'm going to try the threaded top cap.
And the TT High risers.
I'm going to see how it feels without the the half-link, but if the wheel moves too far back without it or I can get the wheel slammed I´ll go for it. Hope the TNN clamps help.
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17 minutes ago, Mark W said:
Cutting a trials steerer tube should be pretty much the same. Both Trialtech forks use alloy steerers so they're really easy to cut. If you've got a hacksaw or a grinder you'll have no problems.
And using the proper tool? Does the cut have to be very leveled because of the threads in the fork?
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20 hours ago, Mark W said:
If you know which type of brake you want to use, then just get that specific type of fork - if you're running disc, having a set of 4-bolt mounts on your fork is basically just putting a stress riser on there that you don't need. Most people are pretty set with the type of brake they prefer, so you might as well commit to that, especially if it means a stronger, more durable front end. With Trialtech forks it's also peace of mind. The Echo forks are much better than they used to be, but Trialtech forks have always been pretty bombproof, especially the Sport forks. I know some people find their geo a little dated now but in terms of strength/stiffness, you can't really beat them. Although they're more expensive, they'll outlast the Echo forks comfortably, so over the long run you're basically going to be saving money.
You changed my mind on the fork. And the handlebars too.
Is running a half-link such a bad thing?
How is cutting a trial steertube vs a MTB? Can I use the same tool?
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4 minutes ago, Mark W said:
With forks, as before, Trialtech all the way. High Rise for the bars too - I don't think you necessarily need the extra width of the Sport bars. It might feel a little different at first, but 730mm is still pretty wide (especially when you consider guys like Carthy are running their bars way below 700mm wide).
Carthy is no example for handlebar's examples. His preferences are weird, but seem to work for him.
Why TT forks over Echo Urban?
TT costs more, are Disk OR 4Bolt, etc etc -
3 minutes ago, Mark W said:
I'd go with the High Rise bars just because I prefer the feel of them, and you kind of get more room for adjustment of bar position with them. Those with the Jitsie stem would be a nice combo. Stan had a similar-ish setup on his Pure and it was pretty nice to ride.
As said up there, the Trialtech forks (either the Sport or Sport Lite) would be a good bet too.
Pads-wise, the ADMs seem the most consistent out of the TNN range. I felt LGMs had more outright power, but were much more temperamental. Apart from the ADMs, the only other ones I'd go for for all round bite/hold would be the Trialtech Sport pads, or some of the TK pads.
High Rise is 730mm wide and Sport rise is 740mm wide, according to Tarty. That is why I choosed the Sport.
Want to try CNC backed pads.
Difference in 18:15 vs 18:14 is noticeable?
Echo Urban vs TT SL/Sport forks?
TT High riser vs TT Sport riser? -
20 minutes ago, Mark W said:
If you're that tall on that setup a 150x30-ish stem would be a really good move. It'll transform how it rides, hopefully for the better! 170mm cranks might also get the gearing feeling a bit better for you, and will avoid possibly having to run a half link/running into brake setup issues.
Cranks will be 175mm for now, bought them new 9 months ago.
Is 18:14 a bad move? It feels like the final quarter crank gets me no aceleration. I have big legs ...
I have TNN clamps, with 8mm of adjustment and the drop outs have space. I guess that I wouldnt need a half-link.
What about the rest of the parts? -
14 minutes ago, ooo said:
ADM pads are great but are more suited to riding in wet weather (I use them but I ride in the rain a lot), if you ride dry weather only there are better pads.
Those trialtech forks are a real popular choice so there must be something good. I like a longer lower feel, I'm considering the new hashtagg stem at the moment. I see you ride normal bar angle as well, so you may need the extra length? You are pretty tall so you may need stackers and a long stem ??
also echo make a 158mm by 30 stem which may be good to look at
I read that ADM is good all weather pad. I only ride in dry conditions.
If some one tells me that the 40ish £ extra for the SL vs Echo Urban is a good move i will do it.
Dont know if i need spacers, but I need a longer stem.
Stem MUST be non-sloped, so no Echo SL stem -
12 minutes ago, isitafox said:
Personally I would go with (because I have) some Trialtech SL forks with Trialtech high rise bars and keep the stem you currently have but give yourself a bit of steerer, maybe 20-25mm. As for the pads my favourites are either Heatsink Yellows or Trialtech pads.
Not sure on the gearing choice as it may mean running a half link.
Trialtech Sport only is disk OR 4Bolt and only goes with 180mm rotors, are threaded for the top cap and costs 10£ more.
Trialtech Sport Light is disk OR 4Bolt costs 40£ more (plus a new top cap)
I'm fing that the stem is short for me (Riding opinion, no term of comparison because it is the only trial bike I touched)
I think the bar height is a bit low but I cant do nothing about it, no more steering tube is available.
Pads will be used in the dry from a dull to sharp grind, I have been reading that HSY have low hold preformance but great bite. ADM is a balanced mix and LGM need a good gring everytime.
My currency is €, I will get a bad deal from the conversions (1£=1.30€ atm) and then the PayPal/Bank fees and then the postages costs.
But I want to spend the right amount for getting good quality parts. -
Greetings!
So I'm in of a few parts and I need some help to make sure i got the «right parts».
I'm 6ft 5in tall, so wide arm span.
My bike is a Echo Pure 2012 26" with this geo/parts:
Wheelbase: 1085mm
Chainstay Length: 380mm
BB Rise: 55mm
Head Angle: 72º
Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 665mm
Fork: Echo urban (pre- race crown integration)
Stem: 127mm x 27º
Bars: 760mm (?) with 90mm rise
Cranks: 175mm
Gearing: 18:15
Ground rim (needs a new grind)
Parts I want/need: My choice
- Fork: Echo Urban 2015 4bolt + disk
- Handlebars: Trialtech Sport Riser Bar 740mm / 88mm rise
- Stem: Jitsie Forged 150mmx35º
- Pads: TNN ADM
Feeling that 18:15 is too light in the final pedal phase:
- 14t rear sprocket (bad move or good move?)
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11 hours ago, N.Wood said:
It seems a real shame that the 14 year olds of today can't make a mess of their bikes by covering them in gold Hope bits like we used to.
But I'm a fan of Hope gold bits
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Here my new non-trial street video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHMeLh8GCHwComments are welcome!
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And clean the disk too!
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How? I just put them on.
Not skinny jeans, not baggy jeans. Just a normal, straight cut will do for me.
Violin Rosin
in Trials Chat
Posted
Unfortunately I haven't tried it yet in real riding.
But there is no sticky feel with it, in the powder form. And a bit of extra noise, which I don't mind
After the test, and the rosin effect disappear I will try the liquid form.