joaovidal12

Unfortunately I haven't tried it yet in real riding. But there is no sticky feel with it, in the powder form. And a bit of extra noise, which I don't mind After the test, and the rosin effect disappear I will try the liquid form.

And alcohol vs acetone? They are two different functional groups (C-OH and C=O) so the results could be different from a chemistry point of view. Cetone will evaporate more quickly tough.

The question that I have is: Applying it in the dissolved form will increase effectiveness ?

I can get pure acetone in my lab. No big deal. I will try that in the second round.

So, after dissolving with that, acetone will evaporate and leave the rosin in the rim?

Read that too. I also read that you could get a bit of a chemistry into it and then apply as a liquid. Could not understand what the nitro thinner was.

Greetings! I have a ground rim, read much about tar and violin rosin, couldnt get my hands on tar so I picked a violin rosin bar for 3€. I just want to improve the rear brake little more. My setup: Echo double wall rim (I guess it is) + TNN ADM pads + TNN clamps and integrated booster + 2004 Magura HS33 Race Line First impressions: - It is brittle AF ! If you drop it seems like it will shatter into a million pieces ... - It is not very sticky, gets into powder once rubbed in the rims. - After a few stops it gets embedded in the grooves of the rim, the rest disapears. - Performance in a garage run: Louder, more bite, a bit better hold.

I can feel my money already boucing ... Please be good!

Pavel Borisevich ? https://www.youtube.com/user/lessoped/videos

Just finished the parts assembly: - Trialtech Riser bars - Trialtech Sport fork (uncut) - Avid HS1 180mm disk - TNN ADMs - Jitsie stem 150mmx35º - Trialtech 14T rear sprocket Can a half-link be used? I think there's lilttle space for it.

My first grind: Some zones are fine, others not so great. So from my experience: Dont skip the numer 1 rule - use a brand new disk. Mine was a bit used, And since i was afraid of damaging the rim I used shallow angle resulting in shallow grind, in the beginning almost polishing the rim. Seems harder to revive an old grind than doing it on a fresh rim.

I need to grind my rim and I had a 5min experience using an angle grinder to cut a metal sheet once. I will take the wheel and the tire, because noobiness. I have read and watched tutorials, like the TNN,Tarty and some others. Can you give me some tips for the procedure? Metal grinding or cutting disk? How to make sure I dont cut the rim?

Thanks for the input. I hope it doesnt get too pissy on 18:14, with integrated chain tensioners and 116mm spacing. Points taken from all of you: I will get a TT sport, I'm going to try the threaded top cap. And the TT High risers. I'm going to see how it feels without the the half-link, but if the wheel moves too far back without it or I can get the wheel slammed I´ll go for it. Hope the TNN clamps help.

And using the proper tool? Does the cut have to be very leveled because of the threads in the fork?

You changed my mind on the fork. And the handlebars too. Is running a half-link such a bad thing? How is cutting a trial steertube vs a MTB? Can I use the same tool?

Carthy is no example for handlebar's examples. His preferences are weird, but seem to work for him. Why TT forks over Echo Urban? TT costs more, are Disk OR 4Bolt, etc etc

High Rise is 730mm wide and Sport rise is 740mm wide, according to Tarty. That is why I choosed the Sport. Want to try CNC backed pads. Difference in 18:15 vs 18:14 is noticeable? Echo Urban vs TT SL/Sport forks? TT High riser vs TT Sport riser?

Cranks will be 175mm for now, bought them new 9 months ago. Is 18:14 a bad move? It feels like the final quarter crank gets me no aceleration. I have big legs ... I have TNN clamps, with 8mm of adjustment and the drop outs have space. I guess that I wouldnt need a half-link. What about the rest of the parts?

I read that ADM is good all weather pad. I only ride in dry conditions. If some one tells me that the 40ish £ extra for the SL vs Echo Urban is a good move i will do it. Dont know if i need spacers, but I need a longer stem. Stem MUST be non-sloped, so no Echo SL stem

Trialtech Sport only is disk OR 4Bolt and only goes with 180mm rotors, are threaded for the top cap and costs 10£ more. Trialtech Sport Light is disk OR 4Bolt costs 40£ more (plus a new top cap) I'm fing that the stem is short for me (Riding opinion, no term of comparison because it is the only trial bike I touched) I think the bar height is a bit low but I cant do nothing about it, no more steering tube is available. Pads will be used in the dry from a dull to sharp grind, I have been reading that HSY have low hold preformance but great bite. ADM is a balanced mix and LGM need a good gring everytime. My currency is €, I will get a bad deal from the conversions (1£=1.30€ atm) and then the PayPal/Bank fees and then the postages costs. But I want to spend the right amount for getting good quality parts.

Greetings! So I'm in of a few parts and I need some help to make sure i got the «right parts». I'm 6ft 5in tall, so wide arm span. My bike is a Echo Pure 2012 26" with this geo/parts: Wheelbase: 1085mm Chainstay Length: 380mm BB Rise: 55mm Head Angle: 72º Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 665mm Fork: Echo urban (pre- race crown integration) Stem: 127mm x 27º Bars: 760mm (?) with 90mm rise Cranks: 175mm Gearing: 18:15 Ground rim (needs a new grind) Parts I want/need: My choice - Fork: Echo Urban 2015 4bolt + disk - Handlebars: Trialtech Sport Riser Bar 740mm / 88mm rise - Stem: Jitsie Forged 150mmx35º - Pads: TNN ADM Feeling that 18:15 is too light in the final pedal phase: - 14t rear sprocket (bad move or good move?)

But I'm a fan of Hope gold bits

Here my new non-trial street video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHMeLh8GCHw Comments are welcome!

And clean the disk too!

How? I just put them on. Not skinny jeans, not baggy jeans. Just a normal, straight cut will do for me.