Tomm

Just use a reflected gradient?

It's more to do with the physical action of jumping - it's easier to jump to the left from your right foot (Imagine it without the bike). Having said that, I'm rubbish at sidehops :unsure:

And now you aren't...

Because they are Poo :-

FRONT rims: Light riders --> normal riders: X517 Light --> normal riders with front disc: X618 Normal --> heavy riders: F519 Very heavy riders D521 (Overkill for 99% of riders)

It feels reeeeeeally nice. But i reckon it leaks more easily than WD40. I've had WD40 in my brake for ages now and it's fine, although it doesn't feel much better than Royal Blood. Good, cheap alternative though :-

Yewah, maybe. But to do that, they'd have to use much more expensive tooling. The sleeves at the moment are just cylinders - presumably lathed. DX is Shimano's BMX range, but luckily the sprockets will fit on MTB. However, they don't have any shifting ramps. £3 - you can buy them from Forge with the spacer kit... That's the easiest way (if you're getting the spacers). :- Oh, and Spelling Bee would have a field day with that post - sort it out please :D

Most places do. Just put it in under switch, and it works fine. Definitely does at: Chain Reaction, Wiggle, MarkAnthony, Cleanbikes, Bikedock :-

Right, no-one likes the sound of the mech beating the chainstays whenever you land the smallest drop, do they? This will stop that noise :- . Should work for any shimano mech. Don't try it if you like the springiness - it's darn near impossible to put back (It is possible though). But you won't need to. Oh, and you can still use your gears (As long as you don't want more than 8 or so) Here's the video (Thanks to Tox). If you can't be arsed downloading that - read on: The video's dead now, sorry. But the guide should see you right. 1. Take the mech off the frame (undo that big bolt - 5mm allen key should do it) 2. Turn it over, so you can see the screw thread. 3. Holding the bolt in should be a small U-shaped piece of metal, a circlip. 4. Prise this off with a screwdriver (May need to swivel it around depending on your mech) 5. The whole lot will spring out, due to the spring inside. 6. Take the spring out and throw it somewhere (Or keep it, i'm not bothered) 7. Put everything, except the spring, back exactly how it was. 8. Bolt back onto the frame. It should now stay put (If it doesn't, try bolting it back on without the circlip - i've heard that works with some mechs). Now you can be as smooth as me! Go and test it out :D

Well i used to be a fan of this "Pump them up so they wont pop" attitude, until i tried lower pressures. I always used to like them, but used high pressures for pinch protection. Anywho, i thuogh i'd give it a go, so i bought a hutchinson DH tube to try, in my megablaster, at about 27psi (30 to be sure of getting no pinches :D ). Anywho, i ain't going back now - my bike feels just as i like it, and my riding's improved (especially gaps - maybe unrelated though :wacko: ). I reckon everyone should at least give this setup a go, even the weight freaks (i went from hot S + latex tube to this setup - adds a fair bit of weight - about a pound, if not more), and if you like it, there's no going back :- Oh the tube weighs 350g (i weighed it).