Wantedinspiredarcade
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Posts posted by Wantedinspiredarcade
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On 14/08/2020 at 5:42 PM, Mark W said:
The split washer is to go on the inside of the chainring. That's what makes it compatible with either 19mm or 22mm axles.
From memory, you'll need one conical spacer and one thin spacer each side, but realistically if there's chainring and crank clearance you're pretty much good to go. They're not as 'fiddly' to set up as things like the Hope cranks where if you get the spacing wrong your cranks explode.
Nice one Mark W, thanks for your help. It all makes sense now
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On 10/08/2020 at 5:55 PM, TomWood said:
I'm in the same beginner boat and have BB5s with FR5 levers. Seriously impressed by the stopping power of these brakes when set up correctly. They haven't slipped at all over 6 foot gaps or 4 foot drops. Tires have though. I'll want to upgrade them at some point, but it's my skill and not the brakes that are the limiting factor in my riding at this time. I've also had a few crashes or dropped bikes that I'm positive would have broken the lever if they were one of the plastic (composite?) Magura levers. I've had one of my brake levers bend pretty far already, just bent it back and it's been good to go.
Very happy with my choice to go cheap for my first set up. Upgrades will come when my riding can justify it.
Nice one Tom, this confirms my choice, breaking levers whilst learning street trials as a beginner could be an expensive hobby! Hahah. Thanks for letting me know the BB5s work well, what model and size rotors are you using?
Also what tires have you got and what are you wanting to upgrade to? I’ve gone for the Holy Rollers 2.4 front and back, was going to see how long / well they work then upgrade to Danny Mac Conti’s to see what all the fuss is about haha
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On 10/08/2020 at 5:52 PM, Ali C said:
It's been a while since I've fitted Arcade cranks so I can't remember the specifics but if I remember correctly you don't need any spacers on the bb threads (like fitting a 73mm bb to a 68mm shell)...the tube goes in the middle of the bb and stops the bearings from binding and the rest of the spacers are used to centre the cranks so the arms are equal distance from each chainstay.
Thanks again Ali, finding your YouTube videos of you riding the Arcade is the reason I’ve bought one !!!
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On 11/08/2020 at 5:11 PM, Mark W said:
None of that is particularly applicable to the Arcade cranks.
The spacers and washers are to switch it from either 68mm or 73mm (as is the case for most spacers for almost all BBs/cranksets - there are a few different width shells brands use, so it'll take that into account arther than "margin of error" on construction), and to take into account chainline and so on.
The internal spacer is also crucial as that's what prevents sideloading the bearings. On MTB/Road setups they're typically more to just prevent the ingress of dirt/water, but on this BMX style of BB, they provide support for the inner race of the bearings.
For the thinner/smaller washers, these are just to get enough clearance for your frame. It's pretty hard to get that element of it wrong as such - the tension in the BB bearing is handled by the inner tube spacer and the crank bolts. Those washers are more to finesse crank positioning. There's enough overlap on the crank (or cranks on the V1 crankset) that you don't really need to worry about the crank bolt (or bolts) bottoming out.
Thanks a lot for your help Mark I really appreciate it
so if I can just clarify with you (haha...) I have a tube spacer thing, two 1mm washers, two 3mm washer, a another small split washer that looks like a reducer, and two cover things for the screw on BB parts, I’ll add I pic below... so Ive now put the inner tube spacer thing in between the screw on bb pieces, so it’s now trapped inside the bb shell (see pics) and the crank spindle fits through nice and smoothly... so now for the 1mm and 3mm washers... these are just to position or align the cranks evenly / lined up with the chain line? Is this correct? When I put the cranks in with no washers the arm rotates fine but the chain ring looks like it’s super close the frame, so I use the washers to bump it out more I guess?
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On 12/08/2020 at 5:46 AM, Private Repress said:
Nemesis paint stripper from screwfix has worked well for me, I’ve stripped the paint of some wheel rims and a set of forks:
Top Job !
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On 10/08/2020 at 5:54 PM, Ali C said:
caustic soda only effects aluminium, you'd need paint stripper to remove the paint, it won't effect any metal parts so no stress about the threads
Nice one Ali
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On 26/06/2020 at 9:11 PM, justinlock said:
In all honesty if you're gonna spend approx £130-£140 on cranks, approx £30 on the BB & £70 on the chainring then I'd just opt for the full inspired set that has it all for £230. Wouldn't be too hard to strip the cranks and polish them up
Hey Justinlock,
My Inspired Crankset has just arrived... do you know if I can use caustic soda to strip the cranks? Will it affect the threads??? Or am I better to use a paint stripper? Sand papers etc...????
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Hey guys I’ve bought the Inspired Arcade crankset to go on my Arcade frame.... I’m stuck with what to do with the 4 washers that come with the pack? Two small two slightly bigger (depth not diameter) and there’s also a tube thing that comes with the bottom bracket... two questions, firstly do I need to use any of the washers? I’ve tried looking online and can’t see anything specific to Arcade frame / Arcade cranks... and secondly do I pop the small tube thing inside the BB? Or do the cranks just guide and sit on the BB screw in cup things? I’m new to building bikes obviously hahah Cheers
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On 08/08/2020 at 4:38 PM, Swoofty said:
Magura MT Trail version comes in silver. Cable disc is ok for the front, but you'll outgrow cable disc on the rear very quickly.
I was looking at the MT Trails, hmmmmm but I’ve already bought the Avid Speed Dial levers now.... although they was only 15 quid a pair! Breaking / replacing levers whilst being a beginner / learner was the deciding factor on BB7s over cheap Hydraulics. I did see a full set of MT Trails for 130 quid or something though, so now I’m in limbo land haha Cheers Swoofty
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Hey everyone, I’ve almost finished building up a second hand Inspired Arcade and I’ve decided to go with Avid BB7s for the brakes (I was dreaming of XTR levers with Hope 2 pots... but as a newbie maybe cheap replacement levers will come in handy)
I’m building the bike myself and it’s all new to me so I’ve been checking out tutorial videos... and saw one from (the awesome) Ali Clarkson showing how to install cable disc brakes... I noticed he was fitting a silver avid BB Caliper to his trials bike, the silver ones are Road and the dark colour are MTB right??? I’m confused, I see the Caliper is a slightly different shape for the MTB compared to the ROAD version, does anybody know if they have the same power/feel? Can I choose either for learning street trials? The shallow reason I want to know so bad is that the silver (Road) BB7s would suit the colour scheme of my build more haha (before I saw Ali’s video I had been planning on buying the MTB BB7s and sanding/ paint stripping them down but I’m totally sick of sanding stuff now
If you got this far, thanks for reading, I do drone on, I know...
cheers.
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Beautiful !!!
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Post some video clips of this beaut in action !
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I’m building up a 24inch Arcade frame and im a bit undecided on which tyres to go for...
The Danny mac 50 a pop seem to be very popular, and I believe they would work well... and I’ve heard they last longer than Holly Rollers so technically could work out not more expensive in the long run...
The Holly Rollers are much cheaper and also seem popular, and I believe would work well... and are lighter and cheaper than Danny macs but may not last as long...
The Scwalbe Table Tops are also relatively inexpensive, are even lighter than Holly Rollers and have been given a thumbs up from Ali C on YouTube...
Also I see Kendas are popular... the trend being all are around the 2.3 / 2.4 width so 2.0 is deffo gonna be slim for street trials... maybe more suited to dirt jumps... going for them just because they cost less isn’t a justified reason because of Holly Rollers and Table Tops etc... but if you want them because you like the look of them then go for it.... what’s the worst that could happen! Haha
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https://www.familydistribution.com.au/colony-22s-cranks
I want the chrome version...
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Thanks guys this has really helped! I’m going to go for 165mm then
I’m also a big fan Ali C you’re awesome!
So now for the techie part...
The Inspired Arcade V2 Bashring says it will fit most bmx cranks with a micro drive hole...
I’ve found some 165mm Colony 22s cranks (I’ll add the links below) that have a micro drive hole and a 22mm spindle...
I see that the Inspired Arcade BB V2 can take a 22mm spindle...
So, will it all fit together on my V2 Arcade frame? Is it this simple? Or am I missing something when crossing over from bmx parts to MTB?
I’m confused about spindle length, are bmx spindles different lengths to MTB ones??
It also adds to my confusion that I’ve seen loads of custom built Inspired Arcades on the internet and nobody is running bmx cranks on there... (apart from the black Inspired specially made versions that only come in 175mm...
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Hey everyone, what are your opinions on crank arm length? I always read that it’s down to personal preference... this is the general answer to most things I guess... But surely if you’re 6”3 or 5”6 it has an influence on crank arm length feel...?
So my question is (if you’re new to Trials so don’t yet have a preference...) what would be your thoughts / opinions for a 5”8 newbie to modern street trials bikes. Learning street, park, bmx moves and general street trials moves.
PS; If the bike geo / wheel size plays a role in your advice... then I’m building up a 24inch Inspired Arcade v2.
Thanks in advance for any advice
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34 minutes ago, andrey-p said:
I'm riding on a steel 22.2 bar with a Hope AM/FR 31.8 stem with no any problem. I ordered a custom adapter, which cost literally nothing.
Good news! I’m wanting NS District Bars but then I’ve been bummed that I don’t have a wide choice of stems... I bought a bmx stem, looks cool and feels unbreakable but it’s weighty.... the hope AM stems look beaut, what bars are you running there? Also your bike looks cool dude, any chance of some pics and spec ????
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1 minute ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:
Alternatively you can cut that black ring into a C shape, so it will expand slightly and go onto the fork. The angle on the bearing keeps it squeezed together when in position.
Also good to know... I do favour the bash it option though haha Just for reference when you say C shape do you mean just slit it with a cutting disc or do you mean cut a section out? I see you’re from Tarty bikes! Cool shop dude, do you guys ship to Holland? I’m after the intergrated Arcade bash ring and the fork axle from your site and maybe some other parts actually, possibly wheels if I can’t find any good 2nds, if so how much do you charge to post wheels to Holland? ... anyway it says the arcade bash ring will fit bmx cranks that have a micro drive hole... but do you know if bmx cranks will then fit on to an inspired arcade frame? I’ve been told yes but I’d need a longer spindle... if this is correct do you sell said spindles? Cheers
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Wow, that was quick! Excellent news, so now all I need is a pipe ! Haha. Thanks for the help judge
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If I leave the black ring off the other bottom part fits on beautifully, and the top parts all fit well, but the whole thing feels like it wobbles. Not much wobble but definitely more than I can remember on my old bikes (that bike shops built for me)
...hope you understand all this haha
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Here’s the first ring.. looks like a base to help seal the bearing ring but it stops before it reaches the base and I’ve tried forcing it with no luck... and don’t want to start bashing it in case I’m wrong haha
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Here are the headset parts in the order they came packed...
Avid BB7 Road Caliper for Trials?
in Trials Chat
Posted
Yeah I also love Shimano, I’ve had lots of shimano parts over the years on trail / down hill / XC bikes and I think it’s an excellent company. I remember as a kid growing up I used to drool over XTR parts when I saw them on other people’s bikes hahah My dream brakes for this street bike would be Hope or Magura callipers with XTR levers
ahhhh so you have the K Rads in 2.3? Or 2.5? I’ve fitted my front Holy Roller now and it looks super cool and bmx styleee just waiting for my rear hub to arrive so I can build up the rear wheel... then all I need is break cables and bb7 Caliper set and the bike is complete !!! Excited!! I rode Trials on a Pashley 26, 20 years ago now so I’m not exactly sure how this will go after such a long break, especially now at 37 yrs old hahah I also had Magura hs33 back then and they felt super strong steady and reliable, if this Arcade had rim break mounts I’d have deffo fitted hs33s. When my Holy Rollers are worm out I may try some 2.1 for street / park like Tioga Powerblocks see how they feel, less trialsy I guess but could feel great learning bmx style moves. Danny Macs are also a definite on my to-try list, and if they a lot last longer than the Holy Rollers like people say, they may be the overall winner, I see so many awesome riders running them.