durkie
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Posts posted by durkie
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any idea where these came from? seems to be zero info about on dob as a company.
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Pretty sure the try-all and trialtech are the exact same: weigh the same, look the same, and have the exact same erd.
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really cool mechanism they've got there of spreading the pawl face out over 3 different teeth. i'm kind of surprised no one else had done that yet.
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whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa
you don't have mountain dew in the uk?
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Hey I've got a question for the OTN people. I had a post on OTN talking about traveling to London this semester for study abroad and I was talking about shipping my bike. I forget who it was, but someone had a great write up on how they ship their bike when they travel and I'm not exactly sure who it was....
I've shipped bikes a couple times, and trials bikes are easy to ship - they're smaller, burlier, fewer parts, and probably already dented up anyways.
a basic rule is just to reinforce anything that can be bent easily. On roadbikes, I'd take the chainrings off and zip tie em to one of the wheels (like a disc rotor) so that it's a lot harder to take a hit. for any wheel that i take off, i put an axle in the dropouts with nuts on each side of the drop out and tighten it. otherwise it's just a big lever waiting to get bent.
put loose parts/bolts in a bag that can be closed and pack it separately or attach it to your bike securely. while you're at it, tie/ziptie/tape/attach everything on your bike together - your box can get pretty f**ked up, and holes will appear that bolts/pedals/headset spacers will fall through.
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Yes, that's exactly what I meant, but I really don't know of any good hackers except fbi, etc. or geek squad.
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matt's letting the terrists win!
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I got an angle finder and it says it's 50 degrees and measured the length and it's 6 in. So that's...
sounds like it's a 6" x 50 degree stem
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They do take a lot of money that they don't actually need to do what they do, and it has been getting worse in recent years.
something lovely about hearing this from someone so worried about the US becoming more communist or socialist.
yall are a bunch of weirdos. vote for thread relock.
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I'd say slightly less annoying than the annoying American retards that frequent the real site...
hello i'm from america go trials
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Some of the rotational energy from the wheel spinning on a magura must be dissipated in the loud HONK! ,surely?
that's probably true to some extent, but it isn't a necessary condition for having a good rear brake.
my overall point is that brake pads are friction materials by design, and so they generate heat when rubbed against another surface. there's a reason our pads are not made out of glass, and why you don't want to get triflow on your rim.
rub your hands together vigorously - they start to get warm, so heat was obviously generated. now rub them together just once - was heat generated?
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I dont agree with that. Think of trials brakes. Is there any heat produced when braking with a magura, on a sharp grind? I wouldn't say so, as the brake doesn't experience much moving friction, as it locks almost instantly. How can you say that a brake is crap because the rotor doesnt heat up, when you brake for only a second? Maybe so hard you lock your wheel. Then the chances of heat being produced are, well.. Non existant.
so what exactly do you think is happening when you grab a fist full of rear brake and lock your wheel? where's that energy go? why is it important that brake pads are high-friction?
just because something isn't hot doesn't mean there isn't any heat being produced.
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yeah yeah, just small holes, hopefully it will be ok suppose we shall see
sounds like you're doing multiple holes for one crack - you really just want to do one at the very tip of the crack.
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Well...if yall want something experimental and don't mind not having a bashguard, maybe you should take a look at these. No guarantee that they'll work, but they have the same number of splines as middleburn, and you could run a 14t up front. And a simple email to them would resolve it.
I think there's a good chance that they'll work, since middleburns are based on roughly 1.375" diameter, and the ENO hub probably is, since it used to be threaded.
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All depends on the type of carbon fibre used. I'm guessing the stuff here is a highly abrasion resistant aerospace grade designed for parts of planes that need to resist friction rather than high temperatures. It looks like conventional CF, namely fibres held together with a polymer resin, so I'm guessing they'd have burned away before hitting the 400-600 degC range performance car brakes get to. I'd guess these get killed very quickly by XC or DH use...
also i'm pretty sure racecar rotors are carbon/carbon, not carbon/epoxy. worlds of difference.
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there is a company that makes a headset that has a thicker lower headset cup, for the purpose of bumping the front end up. i think it only adds 5mm and i can't remember the name of the company though.
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white industries makes a freewheel with two gears on it: 16/18 or 17/19 tooth. you have to move the chain by hand.
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How come pad manufacturers havent made a black pad yet? It would be easier to tell apart from standard maggy blacks, and would be easy to tell apart from all other pads too?
Or purple pads? Hence this topic would become redundant
In many cases black things are pigmented with carbon black, which I believe tends to have lubricating/slippery properties (as well as being very low wear).
Phat pads seem kind of purply though.
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wow! that came out wonderfully. very interested to know what it's acutally like to use, but i'd imagine trials probably has much more intense braking than what the majority of people would be using this for.
nice work!
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I dont get what you mean.
The bit thats broken dosent have any threads, just a washer thats let go. (I think)
alright, you should probably get some better pictures, but if it's anything like what's happened to me in the past, what's fallen out is the piece that the pad sits against. it's got a small stud on one side for the pad, and a small stud on the backside that fits in to the caliper. this piece can be pressed back in by hand, but that often only solves half the problem because when you get to the point where that thing has fallen out, the outboard pad adjuster has lost thread contact with the actual piece responsible for moving in and out, and spinning the adjuster will do nothing.
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No, if you heat it like mad, the crank arm will expand more than the BB, so the whole crank arm will end up bigger than before, and will come off the bb more easily.
well to me, expand like mad means that the bb taper/isis spline hole gets smaller with heat cause the aluminum swells in all directions. but if it works, it works....
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doubt it's broken. the only time i've seen this happen is when you dial your outboard pad adjuster way too much...it's a threaded piece, and if you turn it too much it runs out of threads and stuff falls out. see if you can pop it back in to place and adjust the pad adjuster to make it grab the threads.
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Can you afford to bin the BB?
Heating will be fine although youre best cutting the axle and bunging the whole arm/cut axle into the oven till its about 80*C, then mount the arm in a vice and knock the taper out
To check the temperature spit on it, if it balls up and runs off then its about right, if it just sits there then it needs more time in the oven.
you've tried this? I'm very very surprised that it works.....aluminum expands with temperature close to double what steel does. even if that weren't the case, everything expands with heat in some fashion...seems to me that you'd want to cool it.
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Here is my dilema.
Missus is trying to talk me into giving her my try all cranks and me having my old middleburns back (something tells me I'm getting stiffed here)
So I run 18/15 on my bike at the moment on a neon conquerer.
the chain stays are 380mm.
What I wanna do (hypothetically for now) is run a 16t on the front so what sprocket should I run on ze back to keep the gearing similar AND the chain length similar?
My head is to full of mince to work it out.
Matt
It seems like it's one or the other: you get the ratio you want or the chain length you want (don't get why you care about chain length at all though). if you're going from an 18t to a 16t up front, then the rear would need to get correspondingly larger for the chain to remain the same length, so you'd end up with like a 16:17 ratio.
Dob Rims
in Trials Chat
Posted
haha, awesome. these are the ones that most recently came out, with the big holes drilled through only through one wall of the rim?
(these:
)